bassahaulic

Link I want the link!! lol

It won't be a vast improvement... a few db at most.

Hmmm Don't believe it is a true 160+ Especially seeing how anytime i see a system go from an AC to a TL the score drops stupendously.

First, you contact me as you would contact any other company....BY EMAIL OR PHONE. (Not by Myspace, facebook, homer pigeon or bat signal) OMG hahahahha Has me rolling!!

Where is the ground for your amp? What is it mounted to?

Ehhhhhh Can't really pound the ground with 8^3......

Term Lab, and probably Scrapin' The Coast. He's legit

yeah yeah suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuurrrrrreeeeeeeeeeee

He e-mailed me when he got the sub and said ( we will recone it ), but it don't take 173 days to do. Sundown did a recone for me in one week and that subwoofer wasn't a sundown subwoofer. Wow that's just messed up!! I love the Sundown CS

Something sounds fishy with that.

You did more then I would have, I would have asked him what he had in there, laughed and turned mine up.

I love my 100.4!! How is the power out of it?

yeah GM Trunk are huge!!!!! but very sealed off ....That Is The Biggest Reason I Hate Cars For "Boom-Boom". Take That As You Will. Not so true, buddy of mine has a Lincoln Town car.... idk what year. With 2 15"s in the truck breaking 150"s

I got everything fine now.......... I just don't see where I went wrong. And why, if it was a higher ohm load, the voltage dropped so drastically.

So, I got my second 1000D in today. I took it straight to the truck. Hooked it up, I had them ran strapped at 2 ohm. The woofers are D2's, which were ran in parallel in the box then ran in series out side the box, bringing the total to 2 ohm. I only use the left side of the speaker connectors next to the 8awg. It worked fine, sounded good, was loud and voltage was fine. I THEN, tried to re-wire the subs. I wired them in series in the box, so each woofer went up to 4ohm, I then ran each one to the amps. I thought that it would end up bringing the ohm load to 2 ohm, so each amp would see 1ohm. When ran like this, they weren't as loud and voltage DROPPED. Horribly I wired it back to how it was at first and it's fine again, so idk what happened. I'm just curious to what yall think.

x2

in what application?

As long as it take you to turn your volume up.

What amp/amps are you running?

Well, I have been wanting to see 4 18"s in a Quad Cab or Mega Cab. Or you could do like my friend did in his F-150 quad Cab..... 4 DD 9515"s on 10,000 rms. Just saying though

more cone area.

a 96 Dodge, with re-buld motor and tranny. I'm not sure how much or how little, but the rods they put in are shorter then the ones pulled out, and the pistons slightly wider. New cam, crank, and valves. All this was done prior to me buying the truck, about 2 months, But I have sense pulled apart the motor to see if they were lying, and they were not. It all looks newer then the rest of the motor. So you pulled apart the engine just to look and see if the internals were new? That was pointless as if the shortblock was rebuilt, of course everything was new. And why was it de-stroked? This equates to lower compression and less displacement even with the larger bore. Pretty sure whomever you bought the truck from has no idea what they are talking about. Probably so!! lol I didn't do it myself, or for no reason. I had to replace the water pump, so half the motor was already taken apart. It was me and a mechanic friend of mine. I didn't check to make sure everything he said was accurate, just to see if it was re built.

I have had a Yellow Top under the hood since I started driving, it's a nice battery. Good strong voltage, has some decent reserves. But I recently purchased a Kinetik HC-2400 for the rear, and it's a whole different monster. Before with just the Yellow Top, I would drop to low 12's or high 11's all the time, and I would run at 13.6v-13.8v. But now, at idle I drop to 12.9v, and while I'm riding, I drop to 13.3v. I run, when batteries have had some rest time, around 14.2v.

Wrong