bassahaulic

Am I tripping or is that 6 - 3500D's, 2 subs per amp huh? You ARE tripping!! That's 16 subs for one.... and that's 8 3500's........... You must have failed second grade math.

I loved my SAZ-1000's They were very efficient!! I would personally get the SAZ.

I'm going to go ahead and assume he means making custom headlight housings for your car/truck/SUV that have projector housings built in. HID's are an amazing thing though. They are VERY bright. This is before I had my HID's. Below are Silver Start Ultra's This is after. The set sold as "12 k" but is more like 6 IMO One thing that I URGE you to avoid are blue HID's 95% of people around me have HID's that look like this. ~Note..... These are my HID's powering up These are mine OH and last things........... Lots of info here http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36709 The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) is responsible for setting the standards for automotive safety. As of November 1st, 2005 the NHTSA has revised the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 108 (FMVSS 108) that covers vehicle lighting, due to increasing consumer and manufacturer concerns. The current safety standard has been changed to allow the use of other than OEM source lighting. However, the standard still requires the aftermarket replacement lighting to meet all the same qualifications and photometric requirements as OEM. The interpretation of the new standard is that anything not stock must meet the same requirements for glare and beam pattern output. Aftermarket HID kits in a stock halogen reflector in probably 90% of cases are going to fail the photometric requirements, and therefore are illegal for road use. 90% of aftermarket replacement lamps (OEM knock-offs, non-projector) are not going to be legal either; as a matter of fact, the manufacturers of such lamps have been under scrutiny for a while. Aftermarket projectors are probably okay with their stock halogen bulbs, some may be okay with HID kits as long as the cutoff shields completely block all stray light. Properly constructed OEM HID Projector and OEM HID reflector retrofits are definitely going to be compliant since the sources already meet the requirements with the vehicles they come on. An OEM HID projector retrofit that has a color modified projector in most cases will also meet the requirements just fine, as long as care is taken not to deteriorate the cutoff and beam pattern.

I replaced a Kicker SX900.4 with a SAX-100.4 and it's louder and cleaner IMO. It has alot of power and it sounds amazing!! How many speakers are you looking to push? Just the single set of components? Are you going to run Active or Passive?

I dont know how it will sound with a convertible but I would think you will lose a lot of sound. Why would he want the system to slam hella hard but not want ported enclosures? That sounds like a lot of shit to go in a trunk also. I think you can pound with a lot less. 2k-5k watts and a couple of 18's would slump pretty good in the right circumstances. But if you love to build and he loves to spend...get out the grinder and start stuffin. There ya go. You will loose ALOT of sound and possibly tear the top itself. You need to talk to him and find out his goals, and why he doesn't like ported enclosures. I see NO logical reason why he would want 8 12"s and WANT to be sealed. Beyond the fact that he could say " I got 8 12"s in my truck and it's rattles like King Kong and Godzilla back there thumpin." Which would sound like absolute trash. I have a stern passion for hating trunk rattle.

That is a very awesome box!! vids!!

I'm not whining at all lol I am happy with the wall very much so, It does what it was built to do. Pound down low and it does. And when I had the 1000's, they were strapped so no gain matching. I have heard, idk how accurate though, that average rise is 3x original load. So if both 1000's were at 1, they rose to 3 each. And since the 2000 is at .5ohm, it would only rise to 1.5. But like I said, idk how accurate that is.

I'm not sure what changed from the two amps to this one amp. I did my original testing at a local shop and did the exact same thing I did at the show. A sweep followed by burps. All I know is I gained 1.4db by going in between two 1000's and a single 2000. And since it is sooooo wrong, what box should I use? What woofer/port setup is soooooo amazing that i MUST have it?

That is 3,000-4,000 EACH btw

I'm not to keen on enclosures. but for power..... 3,000-4,000 rms

I AM going to rebuild the wall. But seeing as how I can get the power I want for cheap now. I will I am also going to try a different port and sub configuration. And build the box a little larger, probably 8^3 per woofer. Also, the box I have now was FREE, so I was going to give it a shot. It is playing music great, so it will work for now.

Blame your box, your score should be much higher for what you have. I'd surely rebuild before spending another dollar. x2 You need to redesign that thing.. apparently it doesn't do the trick.. wood's cheaper than anything else you'll change.. I will rebuild soon. But more power is needed anyway. I've already got everything in motion for my 2000's. So once I get them, I'll test and if it's still weak as hell then I will rebuild. Alan says nothing can really be said untill I get more power on them and we get to do some good long testing with it. I'm not just ganna give up on it. There is alot I need to do before I consider it a lost cause.

I wonder how many batts I need for 4 SAZ-2000's...... Hmmmmm

He's been here a while :-D

He is right you know, most people don't want to hear it. I used to do the same thing, ride around blaring music and didn't care what people thought. When I lost my last truck to impound, due to riding around with the music turned up, I realized how annoying it really is to hear a little hum/bump driving next to me. i don't really want to hear it most the time. And since then, I 98% of the time have my windows up while I listen to music. So most people can't hear it. And if you have no job, you would think you would try to avoid getting tickets at all costs.

Nope, as of now I am running MOD 0-1000. Which is sealed on the dash. When I run Street Beat I can do what I want. I did do full power tests. And still got two different peaks on two different days.

Oh, and after more testing the other day. I got a 141.7 at 38hz. Power is needed

The box is built just how i wanted it, for low bass, ground pounding. it was never intended for pure SPL. it is with both 18's with the amps strapped at 2ohm, so each is at 1ohm. i have not clamped them. I know it is less then 1000 a woofer right now. but still. i have now gotten two different peaks and two different scores. idk what's going on. And also there is a huge gain with just a door open, i gain 4-5 db by opening the door. i think it may just be my huge lack of power. i'm going to seal up around the wall. ALOT of pressure goes behind the wall and out the side windows. if still really low then i'll drop 3-4k a woofer and if still low then take it all out and try 4 15's lol

lol that makes me laugh.

Box is already resined on the inside smooth as is..... All the math says it's tuned to 32Hz. I'm not sure what the issue is. More testing today though.

Well for good sounding I would say sealed...... but since your going with 4 15"s and MMATS 3500's Lets be honest. Your not looking for just how good it sounds. You want very loud.

It's some real nice work. REAL nice work. I just don't think that was a good car to do it all to. I don't like the way it looks lol

The 100.4 is a great amp!! I love mine. Which radio do you have?

I'm not sure how accurate it is....... But I swung by a shop the other day to do some quick testing. But all they let me do was one sweep. The TL screen was in the other room, he said I did a 143.5 at 32Hz Legal...... Idk... seems to low. lol

And yes, I know the top has a mess up.