bassahaulic

Keep 100.4, order Bravox Carbon's now!

I like it.

I have mine set to 80Hz. It's personal preference. Talk to one of the many box builders on here for a box.

Don't blame her. There shouldn't be a setting to allow that to happen.

In short~ Acoustically Astounding. My Friends FIRST system. Head Unit~ Alpine 9855, running Active Front Stage Amp~ Alpine PDX 4.100 Sub Stage Amp~ MTX 81001 Sub Stage~ 2 Atomic APX 12"s I am VERY tired, and after some more tune time tomorrow I will give a more in depth review. I just had to get that out.

Woot!!!!!!

Did you mess with the tuning?

Check your ohm load. Might have messed it up somehow.

For the deal I'd go for the DD. My GF has a 2515" and it's great.

The gains are dialed back. Are you going active? It is quite a feat for a first time user Yes they are just a little. They sound great on high power though. True that.

Got some tune time in, and I am amazed at how clear and LOUD these speakers are. It was a straight switch from stock speakers with no amp, to the Bravox's with the Alpine PDX on them and my friend is as happy as could be. Right out the box I knew they were great speakers, the build quality was phenomenal. The crossovers do seem a little bulky, but since we didn't use them, it didn't bother me that much. Once we were deep into the install I was going to put the 6.5" into the door only to realize the Bravox's were physically wider then the stock ones by about 1/8th of an inch. So after some careful dremel work to make room I got them in. After that was the tweeter installation, my friend didn't want to drill massive holes into his car for flush mounting so I just placed them on the top of the door panel as far forward as I could with the angle mounts. The tweeter was VERY difficult to get into the angle mounts for some reason. With just plugging everything in to make sure it played and ZERO tuning, gains still at 6v on the amp, I was already blown away by the Bravox's clarity and loudness. With only tuning in gains, a little EQ play, and some crossover tweaking. I have come to the conclusion........... These are some simply amazing speakers.

1 Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS 1 Sundown SAX-100.4 ~ 6 Mids 1 Phoenix Gold 8.0:4 ~ 6 Tweeters 2 Optima G31 Blue Top's 1 Deka Intimidator G31 2 db Drive A7 1500's @ .4ohm each 2 RE MT 18"s

Great Reply........ Not really. lol Most people don't have an understanding of what true car audio is.

The van will NOT, be attending this year even though I was invited to compete at Finals.

More Wire > Less Wire.

I need dimensions and..... Never mind just dimensions.

Indeeed. Congrats on the 150 club With a spl box and powah you should be in the 153's Actually I got a 151.4 with same amps and same woofers. I'm getting there.

Welcome man! What's your budget? Not necessarily.. you're just used to 18-way coaxials making you think no one could every make an oval speaker that would sound good. In you FACE Duran!!!!!!!!!

I'd do another run of 1/0, another battery, and more grounds. I hate to doubt you man, but 13.9 at full tilt just sounds impossible. I had a SAZ-2000 at .5ohm, with 240amp alt, Yellow Top up front, and 2 Kinetik HC2400's in rear and still dipped into the 12's sometimes.

All the knob does is turn the gain down and up. It goes to where you have the gain on the amp set, and no higher. Lets say your gain is 3/4 turned up. If you take your bass knob and turn it all the way up, your gain is then all the way up. If you turn it to 1/2 on the knob, then the gain on the amp is only at 1/2. So clearly your gain, is to high.

I can get you a good price on the Kenwood, I think it was you I told that to before. It's totally personal preference between the 800/880 and 9887.

Alright man, here ya go. Your own thread to use for any and all questions you have. This way it saves space on the servers and saves you time in asking. What's your first question?

Bass Ballin'

I was just getting ready to say the same thing. The formula they used is to find the area of a circle. Unfortunately you can't calculate cone area by finding the area of a fixed number (8, 10, 12, etc), since only a portion of the surround is considered "cone area" and two different subs will not necessarily have the same physical dimensions. The cone area (Sd) for a loudspeaker is accurately stated as: Sd = (Pi * D^2)/4 Where D is the diameter of the cone plus 1/3 of the surround at both ends of the measurement.* *Some manufacturers will use 1/2 of the surround instead of 1/3 for the measurement, which would make the Sd of the driver appear larger. So in reality, the Sd listed by two different manufacturers is not directly comparable unless you know the same method of measurement (1/3 or 1/2 of the surround) was used for each driver. For example, a 12" Fi BTL has an Sd of 480cm^2, which is 74.4in^2, which according to the chart is less than the Sd of a 10" driver. Work backwards to find the radius, sqrt(74.4/3.14) = 4.87in. Which means that the effective piston diameter of the driver is only ~9.75", not 12" as the chart would want you to use. And if the BTL had a larger or smaller surround, then it's Sd would decrease or increase, respectively. Which means that, unfortunately, those charts are pretty much useless And both of you beat me to it lol

Then there is no way to stop them from loosening.