will3

So Cresendo doesn't just warranty an amplifier ran at 0.5 ohm you have to pay for an extended warranty like best buy or sears , If you pay for the extra special 0.5ohm warranty do you get a replacement amplifier or does your amp get repaired?, Who pays for the shipping or any extra fees incured in getting the amp fixed or replaced ? Personally I would rather buy an IA amplifier that have been proven rock soild and not worry about purchasing an extended warranty I like the BC series amps by the way,( they are a great value) but you are not comparing apples to apples with the IA amplifiers

ygpm

Is the ferrite segmented like the previous DP with a soild top and bottom plate , or is the mag soild with slots machined through it I couldn't really tell from the pic ?

I ran a little mod 1 (will mantlo) in meca this year , but won't have enough points to attend finals unfortunatly, really didn't get a chance to see what the warden could do in the 6th , maybe next year

Pretty much anywhere that falls in IA recommendations works very well ( 0.8ft3 -1.4ft3 ) for the 12" , I did a single 12" LI in 1.3ft3 on a kicker ZX400.1 in a 4 door sedan the other day with very good results.

I've done several in sealed applications in both the 12 and 15" platform and both worked very well.

The only amps i heard about coming out later in the year were the IA3.4, IA5.1, and IA10.1, but there could be others.

I always assumed that the 1000d had 3 - 30 amp fuses like alot of other Zenon 1000d's , but the web page says 3-25's , is this a type o, or does it have 3 - 25amp fuses

Maybe I should have put a disclaimer on that statment ,I was simply trying to make a point, I would not recommend someone run a Flatlyne on 2k + I really hope this would not cause someone to put 3X the power to there FL's this would not be my intention .

First off subwoofers never blow themselves they always have help, if you do this for a living you need to stop knowing everything and start listening , I could care less if they were JL audio or IA subwoofers,voice coils don't just randomly melt, ever And setting your gains with a DMM means nothing, you don't know you weren't clipping the driver , or how much actual power you were sending to it I have had personal experince with the FL , and have sent 3x the rated power to them with 0 problems , I can tell you this for a fact there is no problem what so ever with the design on the Flatlynes, you could have gotten a bad one but there is almost no chance you got two at the same time that had a problem, i am not trying to bash on you , but if you do this for a living you need to start asking questions and listening to people that are trying to help( good or bad ). There is a reason so many respected members of the mobile electronics community uses,sells,or recommends IA products.

If you are that worried about the power handling on the sub in the first place this project seems doomed , The enclosure . the vehicle , how the port is loaded will all play a part in power handling because we are talking about AC current it is not constant, and it is varible( it fluctuates with the impedence curve) and with a stock electrical you probably won't be seening anywhere near 1500wrms cleanly out of your amplifier anyway , we have people running 2k to 15" DR's for daily for almost a year now with 0 problems, they don't so much as even get hot , but it is hard to make a claim or recommendation with out knowing the varibles at play ,

You need to check the DC voltage @ the terminals on the amplifier with a DMM, it sounds like a voltage drop issue the way it was clicking on and off until you turned the gain down to 1/2, we have seen volt meters in cars read fine or even at the main battery with a DMM and the voltage @ the amplifier be less than 10v, particularly when using secondary batteries that aren't charging correctly.

This sounds like an enclosure problem , with facing the subs forward , and the port to the rear , and with the enclosure being as large as it is for a small trunk, it sounds like your are having major cancellation problems at and around the tuning freq.

What kind of vehicle is it and how is the enclosure loaded ? Where are the ports in the enclosure in relationship to the subs , are the subs right at the end of the port etc. ?

Hopefully y'all will get a break before the next round comes through , all of us down here may need a boat before Sept. is over ,we've gotten like 13" in 2 days up here, but not any of the severe stuff yet , We will be prayin for all the people south of us that got it alot worse than we did.

Kinda off topic but, ROLL TIDE

They rated with peak power PPAM20001d = 1000 watts rms, see if you can find the NV25001d ,there were some floating around , They are rated 1800 rms @ 1ohm , I have seen 2400+ @ 1/2 ohm with the right electrical .

Honestly I like both of the subwoofers , the 187 is probably one of the most impressive 0-300watt subs on the market , and the ID series are very versitile and play sub 30hz extremely well for a budget driver , your going to get more output in the 30 - 80 hz range with 187 vs the ID, but the ID will excel in sealed enclosures below 30hz Keep in mind very little music has sub 30hz material, and the 187 are going to be more durable , especailly in ported applications.

Atomic EN12D very efficeint and marine rated , will work well in low power apps. www.atomicspeakers.com

I was a little confused about your enclosure and port measurements if you have 2.8"H x 47.9"W that is 134 sqin of port volume 13" long , and your enclosure is 16.67 ft3 is that before or after displacement ? If you have 16 ft3 after displacement and 134sq in of port volume 13 " long you are tuned to around 25hz not 31hz either way that is tuned way too low for the Wardens for SPL ,you probably have a negative box gain and a very high port velocity For 16ft3 net volume you need to start at least around 200 sqin of port volume

You dont have one of them out of phase do you? I would double check your speaker wiring. Any updates??

Using the DP21 recommend enclosures is a good place to start ,but I would recommend tuning higher than 32 - 37hz , and I would recommend 16 -20sq in per cube for SPL use

What are you tuning them to ?

i have a--ia 20.1- and have sent it to -DB- to have it fixed 3 times and every time i get it back it works for like 2to3 weeks and takes a shit on me i am runing it at -1ohm- on 4=10''subs--i have a 300amp alt and 2--kinetik 2400 batts so i dont think it is the volts droping i keep like 15.3//14.8 at all time so i have to say the amp is -JUNK= You are the first person that i have read saying such a thing.... I had an old one burn up on me, and after it was repaired, it ran like a tank until i sold it, and fedex destroyed it. I ran mine down to .25 ohm and 9.2 volts before without a problem. not saying that yours didnt burn up on you a few times, just saying that you may be the only one to have that happen and post about it. X2 , 0.5 strapped all day 0 problems

The DP's are underrated and in my opinion the cooling design on the DP is just as good as the Atomic, if you are looking to tune to 29hz either the DP21 or DP18's is what I would recommend, out of the 3 you have listed , having said that the DD's and Atomics are great subs and I have never had a problem with George, or his customer service ( but it is nowhere near as good as Nick's @ IA ) but I would look @ tuning them Higher than 29hz , if you choose to go with either the (9500 or APXX ) and I would recommmend running a IA20.1 to each DP .