Doctor Q

well i am pretty sure i can fit it. idc if it takes up the whole trunk... should i face it foward into the cabin or back towards the trunk? so for the electrical. i got a new alternator and the cars running fine. its just when i add this system idk if im going to need anything extra... although this is running 1000 watts vs before it was 1200-1500. So it is downsizing a little.

okay. im liking the 4 10's... so if i went with that. i need a box like the one you drew up except what should be the depth? i can do 20-22 if i need. whatever will allow this to SLAM. Also what amp would you get and how would you wire. And finally. If this ends up running around 1000 watts, then eletrically what should i do? Get a powermaster in the trunk? maybe a d1200? what would you do.

what if i bought a mono amp for each 12. can i do that?

for instance: 4 10" Pioneers off 1000 watts in that box you drew up OR 3 12" Resonant Audio SRx's off 900-1000 watts in a box to maximize their output. wouldn't the SRx's be loduer, that is assuming the install is accurate and precise.

interesting.. well i could increase depth to 20-22 if i need to and that would look sick when i open my trunk but i have a questoin... those pioneers want 350 a piece which if i had four i could at MOST give them 250 a piece so would i be louder giving each of those 200-250rms or get 3 12's of a different brand that want 300rms and i give them 300 a piece... also 4 10"s is 314 sq in of cone area and 3 12"s is 339.12 sq in. of cone area (i believe i did the math right) so wouldnt the 12's have an advantage over the 10s merely just from having more cone area?

i just went out and got the MAX dimensions. the 4 10s wont fit becasue the max width it 42".. the max height is 17" and thats what my box now is as far as h x w.. then my current depth is 13" and that includes double baffle and back piece which are all 3/4 mdf. So basically to make my box bigger i can just increase the depth which i could probably increase it up to around 8 or 9 inches and be safe. How much room should be between the subs and the trunk? Or i could fire them foward and seal the trunk off so all the sound is inside the cabin. I know i talked about doign this with my last setup and most people said i would probably be better off firing back how it was so would that be the same in this situation or would i possibly be louder firing forward... Now if my max width is 42 that means i dont have room for 4 10s but i can do 3 12s. then i could do one large horizontal port either above or below the subs?

wouldnt 3 12" SRxs be way louder than that? if i cant get the 3 12s to fit i may go with the assasins, ive heard good things. another company to throw into there is Digital Designs.. maybe 2 12" 1512's?

wouldnt 3 12" SRxs be way louder than that? if i cant get the 3 12s to fit i may go with the assasins, ive heard good things.

is that how much id need for 3 12's? if it is i may be able to squeeze that but it wuld be really close to the lid... at that point wuld it be better to flip the box and seal it to the cabin?

is that how much id need for 3 12's?

the 1.5 per sub is for the RE SRx's that means 4.5 before port and sub disp.

it was the first thing i told my mom.. i needed a new alternator, but now shes making me downsize which is fine because i think i can find a way to be louder this way. ill get those max dimensions tomrw in the light. also do you think the 4 10" pioneers would be louder than 3 12" SRx's... and what about the 4 10s vs. 2 12 dcons.

Thats an idea. But 4 10's would be 1400 RMS which you dont necessarily have to give them that but wouldnt it make more sense to go with a diff sub that i could feed all of its rating? Could you give each of these like 200 watts? Also idk if i can fit 4 10s horizontally. i think my max width is like 40 sum inches but i can check tomrw. this is a possibility though. thanks for the idea.

x2 on the mechanic thanks M5.. i was speaking to my parents and suggested bringin it to a different guy who maybe specialized in alternators or atleast knows his stuff and she agreed because this isn't exactly what the guy that has my car now is good at. also i was thinking. if my car can handle this with a new alternator... how do you think 2 12" Lethal Injections would compare to my 15" Fi Q now? Im not as much into SQ but i still want it to sound good and now muddy. But would they be louder? Im just thinking of different things now.

Well today sucked! This is some major league BULLCHIT! So my car started dying again. 3 times from coming home to get my mom to follow me to the shop and so within about 15mi of driving it died 3 times. Apparently the system is too much for my car and i can't get a high output alternator because my belt wont be able to handle it... so today the guy at the shop told my mom it'd be best to get rid of my system. now i really don't want to but i guess i should if i dont want my car to die on me constantly :/ . Im going to see if he thinks it can handle a 500-800 watt system because if it can't im gunna be uber pissed. What are some options for subs? I want either 2 12's or 1 15 or maybe even 2 15s. Has to be around 800 watts or less as of now, i may have more info on that later. Maybe like a 15" Fi SSD with an amp around 700-800 watts. As of now i am lost. Last time around i was looking for more SQ but since i gotta work with less power i guess more of a SPL sub but i don't want it sounding bad. But 90% of my music listening is spent with rap/hip-hop kind of stuff. This is what i've thought so far, which would you pick for mainly SP: - Alpine Type R 15" = 500rms - Fi SSD 15" = 800rms - (2) Dcon 12" = 600rms - (2) Alpine Type E 12" = 500rms or any other suggestions. I think the most probable is the Type R or the 2 Dcons. If possible, I would like to put the new sub in my old box (4 cu.ft. @ 32hz) but thats not absolutely a necessity, and obviously id need a different box if i got 2 12s or 2 15s instead of 1 15"... This is such a bummer. I love my "Q". Thanks, alex

thanks. ill look into that. well i brought it in last time and i had to get a new radiator and new brakes, some stuff non-related, but they said my alternator was failing so they "rebuilt" it and im guessing it went again so im guessing im gunna need a new alternator when i go back. That'll be a bitch. And last week i just bought a new starting battery. Ill go with it being an alternator. Personally to me i don't trust rebuilt alternators at all. so youre saying you think if i get a new alternator id be fine. maybe put a secondary battery to be safe.

the systems all in my sig... 1999 Volvo S70 running a Sundown 1200D and a Fi Q with BP Power (15")

thanks. ill look into that. well i brought it in last time and i had to get a new radiator and new brakes, some stuff non-related, but they said my alternator was failing so they "rebuilt" it and im guessing it went again so im guessing im gunna need a new alternator when i go back. That'll be a bitch. And last week i just bought a new starting battery.

*edit* having to get rid of this system. check my thread to help me pick out something new.

So i have a sundown 1200D and i did the Big 3 but thats all... besides that everything is stock. Then recently my sub would randomly stop playing, especially at higher volumes. At first i thought it was my headunit because i could get it to play if i pushed a certain way, well sometimes haha. Then i took it to where i got everything installed and they ran a "diagnostics test" and they said they couldnt find anything except maybe that it was too much power for my stock electrical and that ive fvcked up my amp. Well i cant find the papers to my order with the amp so idk what to do there.... but besides that, the guy told me if i had a capacitor that what happened wouldnt have... is that right? i thought capacitors were only useful if you had a good enough electrical system anyways.. it just stores energy for when i need it but ugh idk its all to messed up. I told the guy i thought it was just like a band-aid and shouldnt i get like an extra battery or something, he said no just buy a capacitor. SO MY QUESTION TO YOU GUYS IS do i buy a extra battery or what? If i need a secondary battery what kind? how powerful? etc.... Also would i be fine with my current starting battery or should i also get a different/new battery there to in addition to the one i put in the trunk? Thanks for the help. I need this ASAP because i can't play my subs until i figure this out (if it helps its a 1999 volvo s70 with a 120amp alternator)

haha it happens to us all. thank you all for the time and ideas to help me fix this.

i just got my car back yesterday and then today got new tires but the problem with my system is solved... just from being old my alternator was starting to go and then wit the extra load from my system that sent it over the edge so i had my alternator rebuilt and a few other things done and now im good to go... car is running better than ever and my system is still bumpin. thanks for all the help though guys. thanks.

well i fixed the remote wire but that didnt fix it... i think my alternator is bad. my car died when i was giong up a steep hill but its at the shop now. the guy there knows a bit bout car audio so he said he'd look into that after he fixed everything else because i have some other things that needed to be fixed. ill update u guys when i get it back/

could it be the remote wire? i just checked all the amp connections and the remote was really loose. i took some pictures but just with my cell phone and ill upload them later cause i have to run.

could it be that the amp is now damaged? thats what the shop said but idk.... ill check eeverything one of these next days when i get some time. thanks guys again.