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:trippy: Thats a small set up. I usually do much larger. Thanks. I expect to see pics when you do. Of course! Keep a lookout, should be happening soon. This friday is payday, that means i can get these little things that are holding me back ordered and installed There is quite a bit of space still available in the trunk. It will be very full when I'm done though. I will drive this as much as possible this summer. I have a feeling $5.50 a gallon gas is coming soon though so I may just have to find good spots to park and hang out instead of cruising. Well things are moving along. Tackled mounting the head unit and EQ tonight. Decided not to use the factory location for the head unit because there is nothing but empty space once the factory radio is removed and don't want the trim bezel supporting the weight. So I removed the ash tray and modified it to hold both the head unit and EQ This was fun to weld. I didn't have any .023 wire so had to weld it with .030 wire. Tabs for the EQ Nice and compact. Test fit. I'll need to make a trim piece to hide the sides and give it a more finished look but it's a nice sturdy mount supported by 4 bolts that go into clip nuts. This is what I was saying about there being nothing to support the head unit. It's all just open space. I'll be converting the original radio location to a gauge pod. This car only has dummy lights and I want to be able to monitor the oil psi, water temp, and volts.

Thanks. I expect to see pics when you do. Thanks. I'm going to stain and clear coat it. The spare idea came out of neccessity and desperation. I just simply could not fit everything and keep the spare accessable from the trunk. I will be adding 7 group 31 batteries and 2 hydraulic pumps into the "empty" space in the pics.

Thanks. Photobucket acts up from time to time. I'd say yes but I have already overloaded myself big time. I'm a single father so I have to get creative at finding the time I need for all these projects. Lets just say there are lots of late nights. Thanks. That driver side pod took a bit of planning to get it to turn out right but it was worth it. I was looking for some paint today but didn't find what I need yet. Hopefully I'll have the pods painted installed and wired up by the weekend. Now more progress... Amp rack is all welded up and ready for action. Used a couple 1/4" bolts per side to mount it. This is what it will look like in the final install, well almost, the box will be level when I'm done. The spare tire obviously won't be accessable from the trunk. I'm going to make a cut out behind the seat that will allow me to slide the tire out through the back seat if needed. I plan on driving this car as much as possible so I have to have a spare.

Thanks. I'm pleased with them. I could have done more with them but I'm trying not to spend an exessive amount of time on any one part of this build. My goal of having it done before memorial day is not looking good as it is. Got the other pod mounted up and it's looking decent now. I'll still have room for the hood release handle to go back in. I think I'm going to do a textured paint finish on these. Just need to find the right color. Built the frame work of the amp rack. I drilled and tapped all the mounting holes to accept allen head 10-32 bolts to save from having to use nuts on the back side (no homo). This is the lay out. I'm planning on trying to get the mounts done in the trunk tomorrow if the weather permits.

Just about ready for paint or vinyl. Not sure what I'm doing yet on them. I just need to test fit the other side and drill out some mounting points in them to attach them to the body. I'm going to see if I can get started on the amp racks tomorrow.

Thanks guys. Here is the pic that should have been the 2nd pic in my last post. I don't see and edit button to change the post. More pics later.

A little closer... I removed the foam and used some 36 grit to rough up the surface to prep them for body filler. Got the base layer of filler on and also thinned some filler out with fiberglass resin and poured it inside the pods and coated the insides to lock any loose debris from the foam in place. Tomorrow should bring good progress hopefully. It's suppose to be sunny.

At the end of the day we were not created to communicate in this manner. The term body language is used for good reason. People these days are getting more and more out of touch with reality. I also find there are lots of people who just try to impress people with an illusion of being smart by repeating what others have posted. I try not to even give out much advise or my opinion unless asked for anymore. Everybody is great in their own mind (I fall into this trap to from time to time) and when they realize it doesn't translate directly into the real world they get all but hurt about it. Most people are way to soft these days also. This is what happens when we teach our children "everybody is a winner".

I try. It doesn't always work out as I plan though. That was the main reason why I decided to give the bandpass design a try since it didn't leave me building a completely new box if it didn't work out. I learn new stuff everytime I do another build. I'm obsessed with finding better ways of doing things. I haven't decided yet about what to finish them with. If I can get my hands on some quality vinyl thats a good match I'd like to wrap them to keep an oem look about them. If all else fails I'll paint them with a low gloss automotive interior paint.

Thanks. Honestly, I have no idea what the ports being the way they are is going to do. I'm not into all the brainiac rocket science of building enclosures. If it doesn't sound right I'm just going to convert it into a sealed box, the rear sealed chamber is already the size needed for a regular sealed box. I'm sure between the 2 options 1 of them will work out. Thanks. I'm just making the best of what I have.

The foam does not absorb the resin. Yes the foam is simply there to provide the shape I want the glass to be. It's a bit of a pain getting the foam out because it's pretty sturdy stuff. The reason I'm removing the foam is since these pods aren't attached to a door that I could vent them into I wanted as much volume possible. I'm not sure what the "rules" are for mounting these drivers in a sealed box. I'm guessing since they play I/B in doors and rear decks, that bigger is better. Thanks. Once you do it a couple times you'll be amazed at what you'll be able to create.

A big part of why I do detailed builds is to help others do better builds of their own. Glad your enjoying the build, and thanks. Thanks. Ok, on to the next... I was able to get a layer of glass laid down on each pod today. I used my air stapler to keep the cloth pulled tight over the corners while wetting it out with resin. I'll be removing the foam from inside the pods now to give as large of an enclosure as possible for the speakers. I'll also be filling them with poly fill.

Thanks. I doubt that I would have figure out half of what I know on my own, so much of how I do my work stems from tweaking other peoples techniques. I use to think the volcano look was cool but I feel an evolution of fiberglass work is long overdue. I just like a more refined look these days. Thanks. I trimmed the driver side and prepped it for foam filling. Taped it up leaving a strip open for pouring the foam. After pouring the foam I taped the opening up to keep the foam from flowing out. By sealing it up it forces the foam to expand into the corners and tight spots better. Notice how much foam is sticking out of the cup. Thats just from the residual amount left over on the sides and bottom of the cup after pouring. It only took 10oz of foam mix (5oz part A & 5oz. part B) to fill the pod completely Removed all the tape and will begin shaping the foam to it's final contour.

Anytime. I try to share what I know as much as possible. I've learned a lot over the last few years by just checking out other peoples build ups. Sometimes all it takes is a few good pics to make the light bulb turn on and better understand how to do something you though would never be possible. Getting closer... Trimmed the base roughly to size and bonded the baffles on using Tigerhair body filler to hold them in place for the next step.I roughed up the surface with a 36 grit disc for good adhesion. I was in a hurry to get some foam poured tonight so I did get the pics of the prep work for the foam. Here is one side very close to being ready for final layer of glass. I'm trying to make them look like they belong there. None of that stretched fleece look going on here.

And the award for the most amount of audio installs in one year goes to.... I'm starting to think I'm slacking over here with all these builds you got going.

Well then here it is. The other side is glassed up. Sun was actually shining so it helped bake them both once the car was closed up. The woven cloth that I use comes in different oz. per yard ratings. A heavier cloth is thicker and will get you strength using much fewer layers. The down side is it leaves a rough surface and can be difficult to get it to lay down without wrinkles. Lighter cloth requires more layers to be layed up to make it strong but is easier to get it to lay down wrinkle free and leaves a smoother finish. I never use chopped mat because it's weaker pound for pound compared to a woven cloth piece. The biggest mistake I see people make is using too much resin when doing glass work. The strength is in the cloth not the resin. Resin is just a binder and a part that is too rich in resin is heavier and weaker, not stronger as most will lead you to believe.

Got back on laying down some glass today. I actually used some spray adhesive on the foil to keep the cloth in place while I brushed the resin on. It worked out pretty good. It's just going to take forever to cure since it's not nearly warm enough outside. I did a couple layers of heavy weight cloth. Moved onto to dropping the subs in and getting them wired. I did the connections different than I usually do. Not sure if this the standard way but I usually slide the wire into the hole on the side and run the nut down. I liked how this new way keeps the wires from touching anything they aren't suppose to. All wired up and bolted down. I also ran a bead of silicon down the ports to keep them from rattling against the sides of the enclosure. Since the rear sealed chamber is the same specs as what they call for when running these sealed I think I'm going to leave the lid off and tune the sub amps in before closing it up. One bad thing about bandpass boxes is it's harder to hear distortion in the drivers.

Started prepping the passenger kick panel area for some fiberglass but was unable to get any glass down due to the heavy rain that rolled in. :angry: I used a double layer of foil to be on the safe side. Pulled the lid back off the enclosure to check on the "gasket" and to run the wires for the subs. I feel good about the gasket idea. It looks like everything is going to seal up real nice. Now I just need some dry days to get the kick panels done.

Thanks guys. Nothing beats an old school GM 2 door in my eyes. I won't even buy an old school unless it's a 2 door. I realy wish I had the time to do door builds and keep all 4 up front but this will work for now.

Was it flexing that much with the bracing? If so the brace may need to be extended out farther to grab the cab corners to give it a more stabil section of the cab to tie in to. Your on the right rack though. Keep at it.

Where about do you live? I don't mind company as long as they are the honest hard working type. I'm looking forward to being able to take my daughter out for a cruise in it. It's been a while since we have been able to and she is super excited to get to ride in it. Progress... Both doors are now done. Now I need the weather to warm up a bit so I can start glassing up a set of kick panels.

Looks like the rear wall of the cab needs some bracing. A piece of 2x1x1/8" rectangular tube spanning across the cab and stitch welded to the rear of the cab would help alot. Looks like it's putting out some sound thats for sure. Looking good.

I'm trying. We just got 3 or 4" of snow today. This weather is killing me. I just can't get the ball rolling and keep it rolling. I don't know if you saw this build or not. But it gives you an idea of what I do in the garage for the most part. Pages 1-12 are the audio build and the chassis work starts on 13. I'll be running all the 6 3/4"s off a 2 channel amp. The speakers are 2 ohm so I'll be doing a series parrallel configuration to give me a stereo 2 ohm load. The subs will be run off a pair of mono amps. I'm not worried about being able to fade between the speakers since the ones in the rear of the door are low and the seat blocks them from my ears. Thanks guys.

Thanks. I really try hard to improve the quality of my work with each project. However this build will not be super elaborate in the interest of time. I haven't had a car thats cruise worthty in close to 3 years and I just want to get it on the road asap. If it all sounds good I'll work on making it look better at a later date. Thanks. I'm loving the birch it's so much nicer to work with. As for the front stage my main goal is just to make sure it gets real loud without distorting. I'm not really worried about imaging or stereo seperation and all that jazz. I tend to play mostly rap when I'm riding so loud and clear is all thats needed for this ride. I love old GMs in general. I've got a 81 Pontiac Bonneville also thats turned into a super long project which is the reason why I picked this one up. Thanks. Got a little bit done today. I opted not to cram the 4th speaker in the front of the door. Just don't have the time to do a door pod that would look good. So I'm using the 4th speaker in the rear of the door so the rear seat passengers don't feel left out. Trimmed the door panels for clearnce, mounted the crossovers, soldiered the wires together, and tied the wires to the panel. Cut the openings in the door and covered the rough edge with some duct tape to keep from slicing my hand open. Made some mounting rings for a more solid mounting surface. Mounted the rings making sure the screws all grabbed the sheetmetal of the door to make the mount as solid as possible. One door down. I pulled the lid back off the sub enclosure and cut a groove in it and did the same silicon gasket trick on it also.

Thanks. Thanks. Good tools make a huge difference for sure. I don't know why I waited 15 years to finally buy a few wood working tools. I had the top, bottom, sides, and baffle pieces cut since they were the longest cuts. I did all the rest at home with a circular saw and a guide. The cuts were pretty close but I will tell you it's a total crap shoot wether they turn out right or not. The guy stressed they would only be "rough cuts" and couldn't promise me anything. I was cool about it and asked if he would just do his best and that there was a few bucks tip in it for him. He didn't even write me up for any cut charges so it worked out good for me. I do all my work alone and don't own a table saw so trying to do that many cuts with a circular saw probably wouldn't of produced any better results. Thanks by the way.