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I will paint the under/back side. The top I'm still undecided on. I need to go to the fabric store to see if I can find material to either match the carpet or headliner. If I can find a good match I will cover the top and front with that. I have a couple different ideas for the trim piece that goes on top so thats in the air still.

I've always liked this ride. It's not super flashy but still turns a lot of heads. I'm busting ass on the audio so I can get onto redoing the hydraulic set up. Once all the batteries and pumps are installed there's no way of getting in the trunk to work. Made a couple more brackets for mounting the top to the body. Used some 3"x3/16" flatbar. It will get welded in later. The rear mount.

It's not air tight. The rear deck gets covered with the factory trim on the cabin side. It's just a piece of 1/4" fiberboard with carpeting on it. It covers up the openings in the rear deck. It seems to get the job done. Your build sounds interesting. I'd like to know how it turns out. I'm eyeing the IB3's as well. Yes these subs are IB capable. With a resistor on the second coil, they'll also work in ported and sealed enclosures as well. Very novel if you ask me. Here is the link to what I'm doing 93 Fleetwood Caddy build. - SSA Car Audio Forum I would try a mdf cover on the rear deck and bond it on with a good adhesive. I would think it could only help.

Started doing the bracing. 2x2x3/16" angle. I bolted it in to hold it in place then tied into the trunk hinge are by welding it. I then did some stitch welds along the edges to keep the pieces from rattling. I've got more to do. At least now everybody can stop worring about the flimsy sheetmetal thats missing.

Thanks. I'm real pleased with the rear deck but I will be doing something different on the doors. They just look hokey compared to the reardeck now. Buying the router and making the circle jig made all the difference in being able to make it sexy.

It doesn't look like you've sealed up all the opnings in the rear deck unless I'm looking at the pics and missing something. Have you considered doing a piece of MDF on the rear deck to strengthen and seal off the trunk better? I'm in the middle of doing an IB system right now using 4 12" Fi IB3's. I'm trying to seal the trunk off as completely as possible from the cabin to prevent any cancelation. I'll also be using some 2 part foam to fill the voids in the 1/4 panels for the same reason. Are those subs designed for IB use or you just trying it for the hell of it? Looks pretty good either way.

Made the filler panels for sealing and mounting the baffle Now I need to sort out how to securely bolt this all in to get the strength back from cutting the metal out.

Funny thing is woodwork is my weakest point. I have crap tools for doing woodwork. Welding and fabrication are my strong points and my quality tools are geared for that. This is my finest woodwork to date for sure. Thanks. I hope to get some hours in on it this weekend.

I've always used a minimum of half the dia. of the speaker for clearance. Could probably do less if needed though. I did sub down port donw in our work van to keep the protected from damage. It sounded good with it firing down. It was a large Sprinter van though so it's not your average vehicle.

I put another platform on the rear of the baffle to rest on the trunk floor to spread the load over more surface. I used 2 layers on it also. I also added a couple strips on each side to remove the step and put a routered edge on it. I'll fill the seam before finishing it.

It's amazing how nice some plain old materials can look with a little creatvity. I love the way you curvedf the board. I've seen a few other enclosures you've done and they are all sweet.

Undecided. If I could get a good color match I was going to do carpet, but I've been thinking about going a different route. I added another brace to stiffen it up some more. Made a little notch where it was close to the speaker opening to allow a T nut to fit in still.

Don't worry the pics will keep coming until it's finished. Thanks. I always like to do things differently and I'm not afraid to cut the hell out of any car. The IB was the only option I had so I'm going for broke with it. It's all in the details. I'm no where near as good as a lot of people but I just keep working at it until I'm satisfied.

Got a little more done. Added the pieces needed to box off the front of the middle sub and did the filler pieces on the corners. I'm going to hand sande the radius a little more but it's close. I want to try to keep away from any hard corners or edges for a more finished look. The bottom now rests on the trunk floor to help support the weight. I will be bolting it down to the trunk on the doubled layered section up front.

No. I have more bracing to do on the baffle board. I will also be making pieces to fill the openings to each side of the center section. I plan on sealing the trunk off completely from the cabin. I'll be using 2 part expanding foam and some GreatStuff canned expanding foam to fill all voids.

Making progress. Glued and screwed the front baffle on and added some bracing. I plan on doing more bracing still. Test fitting with subs. 4th sub was set in place to check for clearance on the middle sub, it was close but cleared. It's going to be real close on cylinder clearance for the hydraulics. I may change the top baffle to angle the subs forward for more clearance.

Well speaker selection will be the biggest thing. 5 1/4" would be easier to do and the shallower the speaker the easier it will be to fit. These 6 1/2" are shallow mount so I only had to use the 3/4" MDF to get enough clearance for the magnet. Well by the time I'm done doing all the MDF work it will be stronger than the flimsy sheetmetal that was there. I haven't removed any structural boxed sections. I also do welding and fabrication so if I feel it's needed I go add some steel later. Thanks.

Got a little more done today. Test fit. Made the baffle board for the 4th sub and put it in my hillbilly press for the glue to set. Notched out the top baffle to let the 4th sub breath a little better. I'll remove a little foam from the seat back and cut the arm rest backing out also. It will go together something like this. Chop it up. Making room for everything. I'm not looking forward to dealing with this mess.

How are you planning on doing it permanently? Undecided still. May counter sink a bolt into the MDF the use another piece of MDF on the back side of the door with a washer and lock nut to sandwich it all together.

Thanks. I just used some screws from the back side for now. I'll do something more sturdy after remove them to paint or carpet them. Just wanted to get them test fit.

The head unit was a challenge. I was surprised when my buddy said just start cutting until it fits right. His truck is super clean w/low miles and was 100% original before we started. It's a standard cab so it was a very tight fit. If it was an extended cab I would have done a ported Fi set up. The 4 10"s put it down pretty dam good though.

I could use a vacation. Too bad I can't leave my kids home alone that long. I'd love to get the hell out of Michigan. I tried to make all the mounting points unseen. Kind of like the pieces were floating. It's hard to tell but the amp rack was done like that also. No videos. My buddy put the truck in storage for the winter shortly after we completed it. I only did a rough tune on it for about an hour, haven't even heard it since.

Nothing to fancy about the glass work. I just choose to use heavy weight woven cloth instead of chopped mat. The woven cloth has much better strength and builds thickness quickly. Was there something specific you were wanting to know? I tried real hard to make this have a "factory" look to it. I paid close attention to the lines that already existed and designed around them. Awesome idea. Im gonna steal it! The foam isn't cheap but allows more creativity with less effort. I've just seen enough fleece over a tear drop frame to last a life time. Wanted something original and it worked out great. I'm big on details. Sometimes the smallest details make the biggest difference in the end. Thats why I posted the pics. Glad they got your gears turning. Thanks for all the compliments.

Once fitment was good I applied filler and finalized the shape, primed, sanded, primed again, then painted. We used a textured low gloss balck which turned out nice. Bolted onto the door panels. doors Battery box. Well I finaly finished this thing. Man I have to say I'm very impressed with the Memphis amp. Powers the system very nicely. Overall very pleased with all the gear. Here are some more pics of misc stuff I snapped pics of as we wired it up. Battery box smoothed and ready for prime, undercoat, and paint. These are the side post adaptors I made out of some aluminum angle. Plasti-Dipped them for corrosion resistance and safety against arcing. Also Plasti-Dipped all the crimped lugs. Then heat shrink and finaly the rubber boot the lugs came with Had to modify the front battery tray to hold the Kinetik. Went with a nylon strap for simplisty. Also mounted the fuse holder to the factory battery tray. Rear battery installed (never mind the flat bar hold down it's being replaced) on frame rail, all the wires ran and fuse holders mounted. Front battery installed. All factory wires were upgraded. Man this thing took me a whole day to wire. I thought it turned out nice for the amount of wires there is. I'm looking into adding a higher output alternator over the winter but it does real good now with just the pair of Kinetiks. The Polk stuff sounds real clean. The Memphis 5 channel is a great choice for those with limited space. I'm not a fan of touch screen shit so I'm not loving the head unit but it does work well. I'll see how it sounds after some more break in time.

I'm no pro but I did recently install a 10" Fi SSD in a ported enclosure (using areo ports) tuned to 32hz, powered with 880watts/rms. I will say it is the single most impressive subwoofer I've ever purchased. It plays low and can also handle the fast drum beats of metal as well. I've always bought "brand name" stuff (JL, Polk, Infinity...)before, what a waste of cash that was. I had a few friends come over to take a listen and they all were as impressed as I was. I can't wait to build a real ground pounder with multiple subs and big power. For the cash you can't go wrong with Fi. This was the first Fi product I've used but won't be the last. Hope this helps some.