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Thanks. I have loved these Caddys since they first cam out. The last true Caddy if you ask me. More progress. Sanded and prepped for filler. Full skim coat of filler. Now comes the block sanding.

There will be very little of this car that I don't modify in one way shape or form. These are the type of builds I really enjoy doing. I like being able to put my touch on every aspect of the ride. I laid up the glass today started with 2 layers. Then added 2 more for good measure. I should note that I sanded the entire piece with 36 grit before doing these 2 layers. I don't want any issues with delamination later. I'm using a very light weight woven cloth that will leave me a fairly flat smooth surface that should hopefull require less filler and blocking to get it ready for paint.

Thanks. I'm glad I gave the IB set up a shot. To be honest I had so many people talking crap about how it would have weak output or that I should just build a box...that it made it hard to commit to going IB. Well after getting this fired up I realize that very few people knew what the hell they where talking about. I have to believe the Fi subs and there power handling played a big part in the performance. It probably helped that I put a lot of thought and time into getting the trunk and cabin sealed from each other. Did you ever get your IB set up dialed in? I did get a bit more done also. I bored a hole in the interior to start filling the front of the 1/4 panels with foam. 1 quart of mixed foam filled from the rocker to the rear deck solid. It can make a mess if you don't get all the openings taped off. This is the area inside the trunk above the wheel tub. The foam really expands and fills a lot of space with a small amount of foam mix. Decided to glass and paint the dash to match the rear deck now. Made a 1/8" press board panel for a air bag delete. Glued it in and filled the top with foam. I just used masking tape to make a border around the area that needed filling. Trimmed, sanded, and ready for glass.

I love all the attention to details. Too many builds are just thrown together and look horrible. I'm very detail oriented so I understand how hard they work your doing is and why it's taking the time it has. It's also cool that you have tackled work you've never done before. Most guys just say I don't know how and never try for fear of failing. Keep up the good work.

Thanks guys. I wasn't sure what to expect since this is my first IB set up and I was surprised at how much pressure the subs put into the cabin. That is the main reason for doing a trial run before doing any foam or deadener on the body panels. Now I know what I'm up against and can focus on the areas that need more than others, that will save cash and weight. It will be a while before everything is completed though. I have to pull the body off the frame next for the chassis work I have planned so I'm going to hold off on finishing the interior stuff to prevent having to remove panels and gear more than needed.

There is about 5" or so of clearance betwee the seat back and the subs. Your correct on the foam both are a 2 part urethane and the stuff that expands less is also more rigid. I played around with it yesterday and played a wide variety of music and the subs sounded great even on some old Metallica with the rapid bass notes they were able to keep up and not get all muddy.

I haven't used it yet but will soon. The package claims that is ridged, sandable, paintable and expands 10x. The package says its for sealing off internal body cavitys to reduce noise and the make them more structurly solid. recommened for car box sections such as a-pillars. Won't deform the panel. The name on the package is IES INTER-FOAM 10. Sorry to clog the build but thought you might be interested. No worries. It's good info. I've never seen the foam like that. I've used that style of set up for panel bond adhesive though. That will be much easier for doing smaller areas that are hard to pour foam into. I use the stuff that comes in bulk containers that you mix A with B and then have about 30 seconds to get it poured before it starts expanding. Update.. There is a little more to do but here is a peek at it. The back seat set in place. Now lets see if I remember how to post a video. Let me know if they aren't working. Front windows down and flexing. did I say it plays low? 15hz test tone putting them to work. Finally found a good use for my daughters long hair :cheesy: Now all the gear gets pulled back out and I get busy with the sound deadener.

I don't even have the carpet or interior put back in so it's extra rattly right now. I'm trying to sort out how to fill the 1/4 panels with 2 part expanding foam. I want to completely fill them which will give me about 4-8" of foam which should make them very solid. It can only get better from here out.

Yes indeed. Not surprised they cancelled the show, they just don't seem to care about anything other than the west coast. It's going to be a while before the entire ride is done. This is the first of many things that I need to finish on the ride before next spring. I gets it done but does make a bit of a mess doing it thats for sure. Well I can finally say that this thing hammers. I managed to get it wired and do a little shakedown run. It pounds out the low notes like nothing I've ever built before. The car still needs to be lined with sound deadener and the alternator upgraded to get the most from it but I'm beyond pleased with both the amps and subs. I'll try to get some video up soon. I have some more testing to do to see how well it will play real music. Once I do that I'll give a full report on everything.

Bolted the baffle in a sealed it up. Used a piece of flat bar to sandwich the board between it and the angle. I used stover nuts on everything to keep them from backing off. Then I foam filled the dead space between the rear deck and the baffle board. I did this to both seal and prevent rattles. I'll trim it all once it sets up and then put a coat of black paint on it. Started wiring up the batteries. So close now to hearing this thing.

They are not digital. Just the passive units that came with the components.

Mounted and wired the crossovers and speakers. I added another piece of MDF to the back of the panels to sandwich the door panel to prevent rattles. I set the panels back on for now. I need to go pick up new door clips for a better fit. Finished prepping the baffle and installed T nuts. I glued some felt to the frame work to prevent the wood from making noise. Installed baffle. It still needs to be bolted down and sealed though. It fits nicely. Ran power cable through the board and the other cables under neath. I used my router to do a relief notch to prevent the wires from getting pinched. Finally sorted out the trunk lifts. I just need to pick up a couple more ball stud mounts and it's good to go. Next on the list is to finish the battery wires and seal the baffle, then it will be time for the test run.

Yes the pods are for sale. I'm not sure what other years or models they will fit though. I'd like to get $250 for them. There is a lot of work put into them. they should fit 99-03 (04 heritage and lightning) thats a bit steep for those pods, thanks anyways though! Make me an offer of what you feel they are worth.

I helped a friend of mine out over the summer on his Lightning. System composed of... Pioneer head unit 2 sets of 6.5 Polk components 4 10" Polk subs Memphis 5 channel amp 1/0 wiring 2 Kinetik batteries Custom fabbed door pods, battery trays, and amp rack. The sub choices were limited due to budget and space. All factory power and grounds upgraded to 1/0 wire and a high ouput alternator is planned over the winter. All power and signal wires have been kept seperated. The cab floor, rear cab wall, and doors have been fully sound deadend. Sub enclosure. 3/4" mdf used with 3 internal braces. This was built by my friend Amp rack. Used 3/4x3/4x1/8" angle and some flatbar for mounting it to the back wall of the cab. Amp and box installed. Head unit and sub controller installed. This was not an easy fit lots of "trimming" was required. Looks almost factory now though. Doors lined and ready for panels. This deadener requires a foam layer after the mat. This is where I really earned my keep. First set of door pods I've done. Learned alot on these.I started by laying down a couple of layers of woven glass cloth for a base. Then layed flatbar with bolts welded on into the base. I just used a little bondo to hold the bars in place. These will be used to bolt the pod to the door. After that I masked off door for 2 part foam. Built a "frame" around the area to be foam filled.Once everything was ready I mixed the foam and poured it in. The next four pics were taken inside of 5 minutes. This stuff works fast. 60 seconds after mixing foam 2 mins. 5 mins. After foam hardend I trimmed it with a saw blade then sanded it to roughly the shape needed with a cheese grater and 36 grit. Next I layed a layer of woven glass over the pod. Trimmed it to desired shape then test fit on vehicle.

Yes the pods are for sale. I'm not sure what other years or models they will fit though. I'd like to get $250 for them. There is a lot of work put into them.

It's the factory color for the exterior of the car and it's a very classy color that looks great in the sun. You spy correctly the 9" was going to be for this car but I'm building a fab 9 housing instead thats why the 3rd member is pulled. With 19 batteries in the trunk plus sounds and pumps I need the strongest axle and housing I can fit under this thing. Ya, I'll have to get some outdoor pics when the sun is out. Here is a little sneek peek of them partially installed. Started getting the doors back together and blacked out the baffle board. The flash makes the color look lighter than it is. Now to get my game plan together for all the foam filling and sealing of the trunk and cabin. As always thanks for all the positive comments. I hope this build has motivated others to put in some work.

He's doing real good aside from one of his fingers still doesn't fuction properly. One bad finger for that bad of a wreck isn't much to complain about though.

I finally got everything painted today. Base coat Clear coat. My "spray booth" ventilation is a little weak.

Thanks guys. I always push myself to do the best job possible. Don't forget filler and paint and... seriuosly though I try to tackle everything myself, it's the only way to get quality work these days. Too many people out there just slap shit together and take peoples hard earned money without truely earning it. I'm not afraid of failing thats why I can do what I do. Enough about me. Back to the build... Made some panels for the rear doors just to make sure they match the finish on the front doors. Then primered them and gave all the other parts a few more coats after blocking them flat. Got the head unit all wired and ran the rca, speaker, and power wires to the trunk. rca's ran down the tunnel. Speaker wires down the driver side rocker. 2 runs of 0/1 down the passenger rocker. I tried to keep al the wires as far apart as possible and any wires that had to cross were done at a 90 degree angle. I feel like I'm getting somewhere finally.

Thanks. Well we are now one step closer to seeing it in paint as of today. I'm going to try to get it painted this weekend weather allowing. More progress today. Made the brackets to hold the rear seat. I'll be drilling the holes larger and replacing the screws with bolts and lock nuts. Didn't feel like running to the hardware store today. Also drilled the angle support in the car to give more mounting points for the baffle. I used some spray on bedliner stuff instead of under coating this time. Then I masked it off and sprayed some high build 2K.

I sealed the mdf with fiberglass resin a couple days ago and just about have it all sanded and ready for primer. I'm going to paint everything to match the body color this time. The fabric was already fading from the sun so I'm not going that route again. sealed sanded The reason I did the resin was to prevent the MDF from soaking up the paint materials. It's another new thing I'm trying so I report how well it works.

Thanks. I spent most the day working on it. Attached the end caps and added some 2x4 pieces to reinforce the joints. I also added some trim pieces for looks on the rear brace. Started doing some of the filling and smoothing but still have a lot of sanding to do. Another test fit. I need to do a couple of slots for the wiring but it fits real good other than that.

I sectioned the front baffle and layed it back 5" at the top. Added some gussets and bracing. Mounted the subs to check clearance. Shit is close. Going to see if I can get the rest of the woodwork done on it tomorrow.

Very tight indeed. There will now be only 2" between the top subs and amps and 1" between the front subs and amps. Thanks again for the positive feedback. I like the trim around the subs gives attention were it's needed on that back deck. The deck looks super plain without the trim piece. It's amazing how much a little piece of MDF can do.

Well this weekend sucked. After doing some more mock up of the hydraulics I discovered the rear cylinders were going to hit the outside subs. So out came the baffle board and into the trash it went. The new layout. I still need to cut the holes for these subs. Put the rack back in the trunk and mocked up the amps to check for clearance on the subs. I don't feel like going for a 3rd attempt on this. It sucks that I had to rework this but at least I've come up with a design that will be easier to install and get sealed up when it's done.