Julian

I need one that can be swapped out with a cs130. It's going in an older buick DC doesn't have any + that's a little more than I want to spend. If i got one of those I'd end up paying more for the alternator than I did on the car itself lol. this is what i planned to get High Output Alternators - Alternator & Starter Repair Kits - Alternator Parts - Delco CS130 220 Amp High Output Upgrade/Rebuild Kit along with an upgraded housing (iceberg is what everyone calls it) for 28 along with a smaller pulley. After emailing them they gave me a quote for 173 which includes putting it together for me so all I need to do is change the bearings and pulley and attach it to the other part of my old alternator at idle 75-95 AMPS @ 750 rpm, at 1500 rpm 220AMPS is what they quoted the output. I have an alternator that should fit your vehicle easily 260 amp alt from DC power, they're the best out there, regardless. pm me if you're interested. does 130+ amps at 750 RPM

Get a recone to a dual 1 so you can wire to 2 ohms

have you checked your grounds and all of your connectors with a DMM? Do this before all of that.

I owned the JH600 and the JH55 series woofers, i absolutely loved them. Their Customer service is grade A+++, i sent in an amplifier when it blew, it was months out of warranty and they fixed it for free and paid shipping back to me. Would never regret buying another amplifier from them.

check all fluid levels and tires. plenty o snacks and drinks ;D

I wouldn't get the Yellow top, go with Xs you'll never regret it.

what vehicle do you drive year etc? i would check into DC Power Engineering Inc, They're insane alternators.

The thing you guys are missing is when you drop the impedance down to .5, .33, .25, etc the efficiency drops drastically. That means more heat just to produce a little more power. I know the OLD Saz-1500d's were able to run down to .5 ohms covered through warranty, but that was before the Saz-3000d made it's debut.

If it is like the Xs line, they may have a protective casing on it.

what alternative was that??? sorry its just that you seemed like a NAAB wich is lower then a NOOB as well since you dont have that many post.. like me.. sorry about that. sorry you are the best..what terminals should i use? silver copper or platinum for my 0 gauge wire? i already have gold plated + battery terminal There, can't read either? Actually, they deserve your money.

dont worry about it, leave it at 0 i suggested a much better, cheaper alternative, which is trusted in the car audio world. It performs just as well as more expensive wire. instead of paying 1.75 you paid 5 dollars a foot. hell i could DOUBLE even TRIPLE the wire and make multiple runs for the same price

High paying moron this is why these companies are able to charge this exuberant amount of money.

cool im going to buy 20 feet of 0 gauge and run my rockford fostgate 4 gauge as my big 3.. i decided what? if you're ordering wire anyways why not get a couple extra feet of 1/0? it doesn't take much...what car are you putting it in, how far is your bat. from the alt? um battery from alternator is a good 5 feet.. but dont i also have to ground on engine block and ground on chasis?? id probably have to get like 40 feet.. It does not take 20' or wire to do a big 3 upgrade. i just bought 30 feet of stinger pro 0 gauge wire.. of ebay.. 160 fudge!! now i need to buy terminals.. oh and what does 180 phase mean on the amplifier??? why would you do that when a cheaper just as good alternative for less? 1.75/ft vs 5/ft? are you retarded? or do you just like flushing away money?

There is nothing wrong with CCA, it can handle slightly less than fully copper i know the CCA from Knukonceptz can handle 300 amps, and the actual copper can handle 300+. but unless you're running extreme amounts of power, you're amplifier WILL not be pulling 300 amps constantly. the downside to CCA it is slightly less flexiable when very cold. but i've used CCA for almost everything in my car.

Not necessarily, but it should be. Some cars dont have metal frames that run the length of the car and some others are pieces welded together. First off, your alternator is grounded through your engine block. most if not all frames are one piece. your frame is ALWAYS the best ground you have. no doubt about it.

check Knukonceptz the CCA is very cheap and is very good.

Someone is a little bit butt hurt now are we? I called it F.I. Until nick called me and said "Hello this is Nick from Figh" and i was like ohhh.

next on the FI you need to do forced "when will i get my sub" thread looks great!

Check your grounds and power, this happened to me when they wiggled lose, causing voltage drops making them over heat

welcome.

is that 22gauge tin or steel on the front? really cool.

I think more port area + larger box would give you a better score.

would a little bit of glue on this joint fix this?

I've never needed a battery isolator, some may but i really never used one, what can happen is your rear battery can be lower than your front battery thus draining your front. For me this never happened a battery isolator is basically wired somewhat like an amplifier it has a turn on lead which when 12volts is put to it, it clicks and turns on and allows current flow, when the 12 volt is taken away it clicks off, preventing current draw from the rear to the front and vice versa. I've never had this happen to me personally some do, i know Shizzzon uses them, but he has a fairly large battery bank running.

what kind of woofer do you have? dual 1's will get you down to 1 ohm with 2 woofers