Julian

As someone mentioned further up I would seperate each fuse, instead of one large fuse block, Because if one wire shorts its doubtful that all of those fuses would blow quickly enough to prevent any damage. If you used all 300 amp fuses, 1200amps could cause some pretty instant damage.

Welcome, we have some guys from OK on the forum also.

If its the 4.3 with standard audio you will need, ASWC-1 for the steering wheel controls (80$)95-2009 for the dash kit ($15)40-GM10 for the radio, probably. ($10)GMOS-014 if you have onstar ($139)JVC KW-NSX600 Refurbished from sonicelectronix (329) Plus whatever headunit you want, so just for the integration stuff you're gonna end up spending nearly $250 without shipping. If you have little experience with vehicle wiring I would not suggest doing it yourself. Also if you want to retain onstar/chimes and want to add an aftermarket mids/highs amp you have to rig it in a way that'll send the chime through the amp which you'll end up getting the chime to the rear left channel also.Although since it is the GMOS-014 setting up the steering wheel controls is extremely easy since the unit its self comes with a plug so you don't have to do any wire tapping. I honestly would suggest letting a credible shop doing it, it's not like installing a normal simple radio, it takes some experience to get it all working.I've done maybe 10 of these trucks and they're always a PITA, you have to break out plastic in the rear to get it to fit, especially if you have a big wire bundle. In most cases it's always needed.

Personally I've had 4 setups with the ZCONs and I have loved every single one of them. But honestly without giving any information about your setup or goals, you'll get mostly subjective answers.

Man dem feels

Stuff from Soundqubed or Digital Designs typically like smaller boxes.

Welcome

That's way too small to be ported, even sealed it would be on the small side.

As Aaron just said the boob style dustcaps are much more robust and able to withstand more back pressure. Also the boob style cap is much lighter than the full dish, But in most situations its cosmetic.

Yeah man you ordered from one of the best online stores IMO. Mark and Aaron usually reply with 12-24 hours during the normal work week, sometimes even outside those hours. I forwarded this thread to Aaron so no need to worry man .

I know Mark has been moving the last few days and has been out of the office. You can contact Aaron at [email protected] or alternatively [email protected], the last I heard that they are on back order from Sundown and they are currently awaiting another shipment. Normally SSA/1800 stocks a huge amount of stock, but as of late the E's have been selling faster than they can supply them. Don't worry though Mark or Aaron will help you out as soon as they can.

You're going to need more depending on what your charging system looks like.

As far as I can remember the XCON has always came with the full dish dustcap. However the older Icons came with a boob style dustcap. If you're speaking about the Icon, you could run them together but it would not be optimal.

Be careful with those amps they are current hogs for sure.

Happy birthday man,!

Please don't bump your own thread. Also I know it says up there not to choose a different sub, but to have 2500 watts on tap on those 600 watt subs you will have puff the magic dragon making an appearance. I had the generation before the HDS200s and on about 1500 watts they were hating life and didn't exactly last for as long as you would think. Something like the HDS315s would be a MUCH better match for not a a lot more cash, or since space isn't an issue a 3rd 15 would be much better. But they are never going to see 2500, also i use gain control to i know my limits(i know poeple say dont use them, but do because i taxi around my little girl lol) Also thats before rise and voltage drop. I dont do burps and music is dynamic so power varies most they would see would maybe 1800 or so. I was told that with clean power by DJ they will handle 1k each and I know i can gain some driver control with going alittle smaller on the enclosure. You cannot count on rise due to the fact that impedance can drop or rise depending on the frequency/box. So you should never count on rise unless its a one frequency controlled burp where you know the variables. A smaller box only allows for mechanical control, not thermal. they may be able to handle 1,000 watts for short periods of time but contentiously? Seriously doubtful from a 2.5" coil, the only way I could see that being possible if it were a high inductance woofer. But honestly I would not bank on that, I'd rather spend slightly more (~$100) for a driver more suited to the power you have than having to completely trash a woofer and buy a whole new driver.

Please don't bump your own thread. Also I know it says up there not to choose a different sub, but to have 2500 watts on tap on those 600 watt subs you will have puff the magic dragon making an appearance. I had the generation before the HDS200s and on about 1500 watts they were hating life and didn't exactly last for as long as you would think. Something like the HDS315s would be a MUCH better match for not a a lot more cash, or since space isn't an issue a 3rd 15 would be much better.

Covering up the vents I've gained a few tenths. Covering up the vents I've gained a few tenths.everything above window and in front of b-pillar must appear stock. "appear" Lol.

Covering up the vents I've gained a few tenths.

Girl you cra cra. I would LOVE to go visit the ancient sites there. But money and not sure I could handle the plane flight hold me back. The money more so. But I'm a little claustrophobic and freak out when I feel trapped. Short plane flights I'm fine. That long in an enclosed space thousands of feet above nothing but water...ehhh...pretty sketchy. When I flew to London I stayed up for as I could handle then popped a few sleeping pills and slept for nearly the entire flight.That is the key. SLEEP. You can do that on a commercial plane. A C-130 not so easily. J I flew grey tale for my deployment on my plane (kc135) I ended up sleeping in the boom pod which happens to be not heated, luckily I had a -30 sleeping bag, but I was still chilly.

Girl you cra cra. I would LOVE to go visit the ancient sites there. But money and not sure I could handle the plane flight hold me back. The money more so. But I'm a little claustrophobic and freak out when I feel trapped. Short plane flights I'm fine. That long in an enclosed space thousands of feet above nothing but water...ehhh...pretty sketchy. When I flew to London I stayed up for as I could handle then popped a few sleeping pills and slept for nearly the entire flight.

It would be better to get a small bank of batteries and a good charger rather than a power supply. But then again none of the options are even remotely optimal.

Depending on how much current you have on the 12v rail you could. But honestly it'd be cheaper to pick up a second hand home audio receiver/amp.

They are actually not the Prime, they are the Punch. But yeah, great dollar per watt at the $250 I paid for them authorized through Crutchfield. Being that I'm a headroom guy, I wanted decent power but also needed small form factor. I was originally going to go with the PPI/Soundstream/Polk/NVX/Hertz class D board amps that are the hotsauce right now, but reading the objective reviews in PASMAG I believe of the 5-channel Punch amp and the PPI or Polk 4-channels, I liked the Punch better. Not much that would be audible except about 1.8db or so more power at 12V and a stronger power supply which allowed for more power bridged or loaded down. Overall the specs for the RF all measured better which lead me to believe it was possibly a better designed board. The RF was also a little more tightly regulated, and with me not upgrading the alt anytime soon I wanted a little more stable power output. Yeah after I posted that I realized they were the older punch series.

Looks great man, you have some fab skills. Those prime amps are excellent dollar per watt value and quality.