mrray13

nope. only the short guy is. the tall guy was. me? i'm the reason why they have a job, lol.... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

sounds like a plan. sorry about the mixup, lol. ramos has the kimber? i might add the extended slide release on my kimber. that's about the only fault i can find, lol. got a new one for father's day. it's a kel-tec p3at, second gen. my new boot gun. i'll get some pics sooner or later. it's a .380, hence the p3at..get it? lol. nice little gun. makes a sweet pocket pistol, backup. tom. bowl movements? comeon bro. that belongs on ratemypoo.com.... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

TOP wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

it happens..don't sweat it. blast some beethoven, enjoy whatever it is you enjoy and laugh it off. or go knock boots with some new hottie!!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

oreo? lawl it's all in good fun. Nah Darren McFadden and Marcus Monk. Both pretty humble guys. Hopefully Dmac gets pro someday. My items I had him signed might be worth something darren mcfadden...seem like i've heard that name. mcdonald's all american maybe? what college currently? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

yeah. i relive some of the good times with various ex's when alone. pretty much normal i would think. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

oh no..you can feel them, lol. the arm isn't bad, the sleeves are large enough you can pull your arm back away from teh bite. the legs, well, there isn't any room to avoid feeling the bite. it's painless, but you can feel the pressure. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

oreo? j/k hehe..but i had too...i jsut had too.... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

**waiting** wait no more, lol http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=9650 enjoy! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

if the box is notched, and the top is angled, the box will be roughly... 54" long, 10.5" tall in the front, 8.5" tall in the back, 14" deep. each main compartment will be 19.5" long, with a leg of 4" to clear the tranny hump, and that section is 15" long. i wanna see how close i am, lol. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

not lame at all. not IMO. make sure it's a sub-MOA group though, lol. cloverleaf FTMFW!! i rather like the idea, tom..i'm working on it now!! here's a hint... bite suit + Uk = a blast! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

are you up firing? if your thinking T1 or L7, you need a bit of depth. and you have roughly 2ft^3 net to play with, depending upon how your enclosure is built. so you need to look for a 12 that likes around 1ft^3 sealed to play. depending upon how your enclosure is setup, this is the short list. FI Q or SSD SS Rl-p SI Mag or BM Mach5 Maw12 (but teh amp you currently have would be the biggest i would run) RD Classics (same as the maw12, your current amp would be plenty) IMO, i wouldn't touch a new RF sub, adn 1ft^3 isn't enough for an L7 wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

oh..and for giggles today... well, when i get the pics and vid uploaded, you'll see. there is a goofy ass grin on my face, lol... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

go shoot your kimber. blowing things up always cheers me up. and mostly, while some of it can indeed be a physical thing, it's damn near mostly mental. my old coach taught us "life is 99%mental, 1% physical. if your brain can tell your body to do it, 9 times outa of 10, it will do it." you just have to train yourself to not let things bring you down. your young and life is staring you dead in the face. laugh at it. laugh at it before it laughs at you. you'll feel much better... after blowing things up!! muhahaha ryan1, man, i hope you get to feeling better bro! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

You never cease to amaze me with your nonsensical babbling. 1131 Feet per sec/20 Feet = 1131/20 per sec or 56/sec or 56 hz Mathematically that portion is just fine. WTF are you talking about. I will save my issues with the rest of the article for later, but dopey you completely missed. He's talking about where the paper says: "1131(fps) / 60Hz = 18.85 feet per second" That's what doesn't make sense, if you'd taken the time to read it. Dont be such a prick. Lord Baccus, a White Paper is a technical report on a subject put out by a company. While they often promote a certain viewpoint (which can coincide with their strategy/products/etc.), they are most likely technically correct. OzAudio has the balls to call their little document a white paper - a shame. As far as tuning the box goes, this is very woofer dependant. Initial modeling(WinISD) of a conventional speaker - like a Mach5 MJ18 or Ascendant Avalanche 15 - shows a peak output slightly above tuning. But a driver like the FI BTL seems to have peak output, min excursion, and min impedance all at the tuning freq (which doesn't happen in the typical case). what's confusing about 1131(fps)/60hz (or cycles per second)=18.85ft? it's pretty straight forward. i agree about the white paper part, lol and box tuning is only woofer dependant as far as how much the woofer displaces in the box. if the mj18 and the ava18 displace the same amount of air inside the box, the box tuning won't change. now the fs of the sub might change where your peak is at, depending on how it reacts in said tuned box. also, the program, no program that most of us will use, will ever be accurate in car, or under actual power. they are nothing more then an educated guess as to what the sub might do given the t/s parameters. a nice starting point, yes. but i for one will not depend upon a modeling program to determine overall output in any given application. jsut way too many varibles in car, under power to account for. that said, if one wants to take an accurate frequency response reading of the car and can duplicate the exact gross displacment of the enclosure and it's location, as well as measuring/charting said enclosure for impedence rise and using the exact same power, one might indeed get really close to predicting output. but for the most part, it's all about getting close and then testing and a little bit of luck, IMO anyway. LB..yep, you'll have to measure that exact way, up to roof, roof to mic. maybe build to split the difference? again, like mentioned before, you're looking for the compromise between port velocity and sub xmax. so, unless i'm just way off base, i'd aim for 7-11 cycles below the average of the two measurements, as a starting point only. but i could be wrong, lol wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

one of you brainiacs get into LB thread about resonant frequency and help me out, lol... neil, this means you! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i know a box is more efficient at/near tuning, due to the port handling the majority of the output and the sub moving very little. but i really have no idea (well, i have a basic one, but i can't put it into words. it has to do with with making the sub move more and forcing the port to help, but that doesn't sound right) why a box's output almost always peaks above tuning, and in that 7-11hz range. i know vehicle is part of the equation, as well as placement. but what am i missing? and he's trying to match box peak with car peak to maximize spl score at kick. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

you tune below peak, so that the box will peak at the car's frequency. if you tune at frequency, the box will peak above the car, and you'll lose output. you've got to account for the car's transiant response, if that's the correct term here. and the fact (and i'm not sure why) that a box never peaks at it's tuning frequancy, but always higher. hopefully, someone with a bit more physics knowledge can come in here adn break it down correctly. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

while i can't answer your mathmatical question, sean or someone smarter then me will have to, what i can say is this. what happens on paper doesn't happen in car. that simple equation doesn't account for everything in that wave's path, ie: your seats, your dash and anything else between those subs and that mic. hell, even the ebrake pedal is going to casuse deflection. enough to matter? i don't honestly know, but i'd wager yeah. simply put, if it was just as simple as doing the math and porting to suit, the records we have now would have been accomplished oh so long ago. but it's not that simple, again, waaaaaay too many varibles. IMO, the only way to do it, test. test and test some more. the very best i know follow the procedure, or a version of it, that i outlined above. they all hold/or have held world titles in dbdrag, usaci and meca. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i lmao'd wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

your welcome on the heads up, that's why we are here. that sundown combo should be the bomb!! while the 1000d is indeed a bit overkill, it's nice to have a bit of headroom as you can definitely achieve the output your looking for well before clipping the amp. and you always have power on tap for adding that second sub, lol. and like sean(///m5) hinted at, teh rl-i deserves a far better amp then the pr500d. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

correct, and it varies per vehicle. most will say anywhere from 7 to 11 hz below peak. LB, if you truely want to find your resonant frequency, seal up your ported box and burp it. start at 35 hz and moving up in 5 hz increments until it quits getting louder. say it got the loudest at 50hz. start at 45 hz now, and in 1hz go up until it peaks. then tune your box between 7-11hz below that peak. it'll take some testing to achieve that. build a box with a slot port (or aeros!!) that can be removed and modified to change tuning. start low as the port is longer. whole lot easier taking length off compared to adding it, lol. and sean, i fixed your post, the double quote thingy you had going on confused the hell outa me, lol. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I'm sure the RL-i8 will be a hit (pun intended). Unfortunately, I had the discount pulled out from under me, so I had to re-re-evaluate my components and amps. Here is what I finally put together, everything else was ordered today. Receiver: Pioneer DEH-P5900iB Front: Focal 165V1 Component Amp: Memphis 16-PR100.4 Sub: SoundSplinter RL-i8 DVC4, sealed ~0.35 Sub Amp: Memphis 16-PRD500.1 I'm excited and nervous at the same time. I have no experience with Memphis Audio, but everything I've read suggests they make some quality amps at a good price. I would have loved the Sundown SAX-100.4, but it was simply out of my budget. Crossing my fingers that it all comes together well... P.S. Any suggestions on forums/sites for learning more about the electrical system? I need to get a handle on caps, yellow tops, and the math behind car audio. unless you planned it this way, the pr500d will only be showing the rl-i 250-300wrms. the pr500d makes it's power @ 1ohm, with a d4 sub, the lowest you can get is 2ohm. and too be honest, while i used to be a huge memphis fan, i think i'd recommend spending your money elsewhere. memphis's quality has taken a serious nosedive the last year or so. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

lol...that would have been a good pic wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i use nothing but titebond II or III, it's always been great stuff. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee