mrray13

lol, 'nuff said is just my "title", teh user name is mrray13. i'll get to a tape this weekend and give you some dimensions. this isn't a hard box, but not necessarly one that one would attempt on their first try, unless you are handy with the saw and tape. my icon is recieving a rated 1100wrms from a memphis mc1300 (the big belle), i typically listen to stuff from disturbed, slipknot, korn..but i'll also go old school motley crue, twisted sister, etc. i do listen to rap on occasion, but it's mostly rock. and i'm extremely pleased with the overall performance. my truck still lacks in the output side of things, but then again, i went from an 18" solox and 4kwrms to an 12 icon and 1100wrms. it's kinda a stacked deck, lol. the tuning freq is where you want the greatest reinforcement. the box will typically peak 7-11 cycles above tuning (alot of varibles figure into this) and roll off in either direction. you use a subsonic filter to limit damage to a sub below tuning as teh amp can tend to lose control of the sub and cause it to over reach it's limits. and don't sweat the questions, it's why we are here. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

oh, it's 55* here, with a projected high of 68* wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Be better without the rear crap fill blah, blah, blah....u squeers...lol.. it's a cheap work hooptie, that came with factory cassette. it'll be jsut fine, a little thump in the trunck and some highs to go with it. jim, sorry to hear about your dogs. sometimes, with their dedication, it's harder to lose them then some human family members. and with that..it's time for the 3 S's....and work. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

both are extremely capable lsq drivers. i'd give the edge to the icon for power handling, though that's going to be enclosure dependant. overall sq would go to the rl-p , but it's geared more in that direction. the icon, IMO is about the most neutral sub as far as output/sq goes, thought eh rl-p is right there with it. the icon doesn't especially shine output wise sealed, i'd definitely give the edge to the rl-p on that point. sq is pretty close, but i think the rl-p is the better overall performer sealed. both are backed by extremely good people. customer service won't be an issue either way. overall, it's a coin flip. both subs prefer ported, both will work sealed, and both are backed by great people. teh rl-p is aluminum vs paper cone on the icon. and i can't see an idmax fitting under the rear seat of the silverado. but you can indeed port a single 12 icon or rl-p under there, lol.... Thanks for the input. I would like to go ported and I'm sure I can match the volume you stated you are using. Can you tell me the length of the 4" tube and the placement you used in the enclosure? oh yeah, i own both drivers (both 12's) and a 2004 silverado xcab. teh rl-p is currently retired (on of the first ones ever bought from mike) while the icon is currently residing in 2ft^3 @34hz (4" round port) under the back seat of said silverado. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee sub is downfired on driver's side, port is fired into pasanger side door. IIRC, the port is ~11", but i'll have to tapemeasure it to know for sure. i also built iluvJDM the exact same enclosure for his silverado/icon. i'll try to keep tabs on thios as i'm not online much (most i've been online in months, lol) but if needed, i'll provide dimensions to help out. if not me, holler at JDM.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

alrighty then... let me know if you don't find a 10 bro! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

neo something or others, lol...i'll look them up and post a link in a bit. i got them from ryan1, was wanting to possibly use them in house, but as of yet, i've ahd them for about two years and they are still in the box ryan1 sent them to me in. i'll talk to the boy, if he'll let me and impedence is right, i'll let the clarions and the box go for $125 shipped. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

ok. so what's the difference in A and C weighting? and exactly what does it mean to have an A weighted measurement? is it in the fact the A rating is for higher freq compared to a C rated one being for lower octaves? or am i way wrong? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

care to explain the difference? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i would start with a 6" aero port, and a 1cuft^3 net box...add all the power you can (1100wrms isn't going to cut it unless you go big box)..and go up from there. i can't see the icon needing anymore port area then that, but as mentioned, it's mostly trial and error. also, grab a sealed box roughly the same size as the ported box you are going to build/have built. face the sub in the approximate position that you will for spl. then measure your car's frequency response, ie: start burping tones and recording them with the sealed box. it'll get you pretty close to your car's resonance frequency and you can tune from there. sq box? what is your predominant music taste? i'd wager your current enclosure is pretty close as far as ported box is concerned. and i've got a term lab that draws more dust then anything, lol.... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

all solved...lol!!! pioneer deh 3600 (with sub control hpf and lpf!!) pioneer 4" fronts (can't remember model #, will get rid of these for some 3.5) pioneer 5.25 for the rear (get model number later, they are 3 ways) kicker kx400.1 for sub duty mach5 maw 12 still have to install speakers, build box and buy 4 gauge kit....but so far, i have $220 in everything, all bnib!! pretty pimp!!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

car is a 1988 toyota camry deluxe 4wd sedan. all factory. double din h/u, 4" fronts, 5.25" rears. here are the wants.. single din h/u 4" two ways 5.25" two ways budget for everything, including dash kit/harness is right around $300-$350. would like a h/u with sub control for later and a dedicated sub preout at the bare minimum. all stuff can be used and if it's something personal, i even have some stuff to trade to help. i have a mach5 12, or a la x2 12, or a rl-i8 or a rl-p12 or a pair of clarion 8's for subs, but that will come later. right now, just the basics. i'm asking you guys to help because i really don't have the time to dig around the net to find the best deal. hook a brother up, please?!?!?! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i like the mach5 idea for the sub side of things....really can't beat there bang for the buck. might want to try to locate a pair of re re 8's if possible. i have a pair of clarion (exact same subs) in the garage, with a ported pre fab box (i just need to enlarge the mounting holes a bit). what were you looking at price wise? i might let them go jsut to make some room. (i'll use my rl-i 8 for the boy's room again) i'll let the others chime in on tweets (though i do have a pair of planars that aren't doing anything either) and h/u 's. and i have a audio control eqs, though that probably won't help a ton. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hello all.... i need to update my personal hooptie, low budget build thread. i just picked up a mint kicker kx400.1 for *gasp* $50!! so the sub stage is taken care of....(with a certain 12" mach5 subwoofer) i have a total of $150 in a bnib pioneer 3600 (has sub control lpf and hpf, i'm happy!) and bnib pioneer 4" and 5 1/4". dash kit was free as was wiring harness, all that's left to buy is 4 gauge kit and wood/carpet. not a bad sub $400 system, you think? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

That is what I would do. i third this option as well. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=9379 12" sub and a true 1000wrms amp for under $500? you could actually fit the 15" version and amp in under your $600 budget. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

both are extremely capable lsq drivers. i'd give the edge to the icon for power handling, though that's going to be enclosure dependant. overall sq would go to the rl-p , but it's geared more in that direction. the icon, IMO is about the most neutral sub as far as output/sq goes, thought eh rl-p is right there with it. the icon doesn't especially shine output wise sealed, i'd definitely give the edge to the rl-p on that point. sq is pretty close, but i think the rl-p is the better overall performer sealed. both are backed by extremely good people. customer service won't be an issue either way. overall, it's a coin flip. both subs prefer ported, both will work sealed, and both are backed by great people. teh rl-p is aluminum vs paper cone on the icon. and i can't see an idmax fitting under the rear seat of the silverado. but you can indeed port a single 12 icon or rl-p under there, lol.... oh yeah, i own both drivers (both 12's) and a 2004 silverado xcab. teh rl-p is currently retired (on of the first ones ever bought from mike) while the icon is currently residing in 2ft^3 @34hz (4" round port) under the back seat of said silverado. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hey all... off to work. no playing hookie today..lol.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

1.7 @ 32 sounds pretty good. running the middle ground between mike's recomendations should get you pretty close to where you want to be. personally, i loved my rl-p in 1.25 net sealed, but it sure got down in several ported affairs. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i thought we had a thread up already, but alas, i can't find it. so for you folks who enjoy firearms, here's a couple of quick shots... glock 21 sf at the bottom, kel-tec p3at is the little one and the nickel revolver is the boy's, s&w model 27 with 8 3/8" launch tube. teh sf in the glock model number stands for slim fram, new for 07. it's roughly the same size as the standard grip frames, ala 9mm, so now the .45acp fits far more hands. teh p3at is my pocket pistol. .380, it's great for it's intended purpose, but hates multipule clips going through it at a time. a quick detail job should fix that, i just have to buy a dremel. teh entire handgun collection, to this point. kimber custom II, s&w sw40ve sigma, teh above metnioned three and my s&w model 17 .22lr revolver. enjoy, i do!!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

thank you.... as previously mentioned in teh wrongly quoted post, that is now deleted, lol... i'm about to go fire it up and enjoy a nice ride! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

thank you! fixing to go fire it up and take a ride!!!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

wow, was i slow... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i see a glow bug junkie reading this... * awaits jim's response* wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

wow, just wow!! 1300amps? sweet fucking jesus, you are my hero!!! have you done any measuring to see where your at at idle with those things? i'm just curious as teh shop i used to wrok at had bad luck with iraggi's. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

that is way cool!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

it happens, lol. like sean, i was better going all but unprepared into speechs, imprompto (sp?) was my strong point. i hate preparing speeches, you find way too much info and in no way can squeeze it into the time limit. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee