mrray13

it won't let me trigger finger like that..i gotta keep copy/paste chit.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

it won't let me trigger finger like that..i gotta keep copy/paste chit.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

it won't let me trigger finger like that..i gotta keep copy/paste chit.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

it won't let me trigger finger like that..i gotta keep copy/paste chit.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

it won't let me trigger finger like that..i gotta keep copy/paste chit.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

it won't let me trigger finger like that..i gotta keep copy/paste chit.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

it won't let me trigger finger like that..i gotta keep copy/paste chit.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

same 0.5dcr in a 5.7 cube box with not alotta port area... Impedance will climb to at least 1.0 actual... I'm betting. true, though it's the recommended 70in^2 of port..lol.. and as long as voltage stays up, the amp runs fine... i don't run it cranked like this though..lol..hurts the ears. but it's there when needed to shut down posers and their BB/CC systems..lol wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

getting tired there nick? lol all the yawning..lmao btw..just rewired the solo for .5ohm..hehe kaboom baby!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hopefully by summers end...6" of lift and 35's will be under it.. and it does indeed pound with 2.8kwrms!! matter of fact, i think i will go change the wiring right now..lol wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

no, u won't be overpowering the rl-i with 600wrms if u have the correct enclosure. for the money, i'd go ahead and get the rl-p...even more headroom there if needed... but i honestly don't think u can go wrong with either...i'd say ur pocketbook determines the winner. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

supa, a large case alt won't fit my truck without mods...mine has a delphi case, not delco... oh well, i need to price getting one rewound.. go here, new pics and wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i guess 15151 is the next cool one with 17500 being the next big cool one and then 20k!! and 22222 and 23456, oh yeah, 21212...lots of cool ones coming up!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee:slayer:

wow..over 1000 pages and 15k in posts!! awesome... beast here we come!!!! btw... pics up soon of solo x and grille and stuff..lol wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

like nick said, go with SS's recommendations...i don't ever use the port area calculator...and now u know why..lol.. i'd do the 35in^2 of port and whatever length the port calculator gave u... the thing to remember, the calculator does not account for sub or port displacement meaning, when u build ur box, u have to manually account for them and build ur box accordingly to achieve the net volume of 2.6ft^3 after port and sub displacement... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

well, like u corrected me earlier...i try to use three basic things: xmax(for port area) and displacement(for box volume) and fs(to help determine what i'm tuning at) why? 1) for everyday installs, they are the only three things that matter to make just about anything sound good to just about anybody 2) because i honestly don't know enough about physics and electrical engineering to speculate about transient response, qts, qms ,pms and whatever else u wanna throw at me...lol... though i know the things in number 2 to indeed relate to how a subwoofer will ultimately sound in vehicle, for what most ppl are after, just knowing those three things i listed is usually way more then enough. but then again, i'm learning all the time, so all this may change... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

howdy wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

apparantly....lol wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

we passed the thread.... lol... good job guys!!!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hey nick...ur right about the amperage pull... i think i have a faulty altenator, even with everything off, sometimes when i get off the gas i'll get a huge voltage drop...time to put the stock 105amp'r back on until i can get a good 200amp'r... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

u are correct, i forget to mention how the sub's xmax helps to dtermine port area.. 2 lit...carstereo.com has a great port calculator...u plug in net box volume, port area and desired tuning..it gives u length...i know of two local shops who use it to figure ports wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

for ur box volume..i'd recommend about 2ft^3 each, tuned to 34hz...that should provide the necessary sql... as too the mounting, we just did something similar in a buick...we keep the baffle at the same angle as the seats, but the subs don't hit the seats either...we also did sealed. it does indeed sound good and gets pretty damn loud too..(memphis 10"s off the big memphis belle) wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

ur correct in the assumption box volume and port area are the two most important aspects of box tuning. the sub is just need to determine it's displacement and to figure out what tuning is going to be needed. with 800 wrms on tap, i'd run with the port area u have planed and use about a 2.5ft^3 box. u can actually still run a slot port in one of two ways.... side load it and use a triangle port. i don't remember the formula to figure out triangle area, but all u have to do is keep the area about the same... or still use an "L" shaped port, but the back wall will have to be two walls.....kinda like this.. *= the outside of ur box and looking at it from the top *****************-----------

T.O.P. beyotchessssss i>j0o! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

and if that didn't get ur attention..lol wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee