mrray13

lol, nope. that's a pretty good price, and right along about what i would charge. one can figure $225 or so shipped in the lower 48, depending upon carrier/insurance. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

but if it's not there how will the flux/nio3 capacitor get cooling? i like how he wanted people to ask about nio3, but then skirts the explaination when finally asked. as long as they will go boom, people will buy them. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

freeze dried icecream? wtf is that? no melting? let us know if this is any good. i might just order some meself. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

did we ever get pics of those BIBs? i really need to start on my h/t. be something different from all the same car audio crap. sup ryan1? i see you! i want to go shooting today, but ammo is low, my FOID card expired and i haven't recieved my new one yet. that means i can't buy more! goshdamnit motherfucker!!!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

something along the lines of a nemesis, or 750wrms, MAX! yeah, they are underrated a tad, can typically handle 350-400, if one is easy on the gain and volume knobs, and knows when to turn it back down. otherwise, grab a pr500d or mc500d and enjoy. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

if anything, I'll want the pan painted Chevy Engine Orange notched and chevy orange? gotcha!! now get me the damn pan, lol!! MIG is easier, TIG looks better, and if i notch it accurate enough, TIG can be stronger. i'd have to brush up on my TIG though, and that's not hard to do. sure you can't get a pan out to me sooner? would give me six weeks to get it right, lol. but for real, just send it when you're ready, and don't forget to include how big of a notch, color and stuff. cause i sure as hell will forget, lol. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

cool, name a weekend! talk about a gettogether, lol. our schools grand master's are from mcleansboro, maybe we can get together there as GM sanders competes quite regularly in mma. good luck at the tourny! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

lol, no...we saved all the piss up for this pissing match. mr.cabinetry, please don't take this personally. i enjoy a good arguement every now and then. we just kinda walked into this one, lol wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

don't think that would happen even if ben offered up HUGE money. really HUGE money. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i bet it's just like the older subs, comex over poly cone. and the neo/ceramic hybrid? lol, it's ben. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

HBD big man!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

flat black would be pimp, lol. shiny doesn't add any go fast, that's for sure!! i'm a fan of the natural look of aluminum, to me, it's industrial. and IMO, that means stout. but shit, all i see is aluminum for the biggest part of the day, lol. i'm currently fabricating a skin and frame cabinet, 120 3/4 x 154 x 30, that's 2x2x1/4 mild steel frame. it's a big bitch, lol. and i still gotta do all the pretty stuff. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

x eleventiybillion on what kharps and big e just said. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

aww acrew it... that's what i say. nice to see you posting again chris. wanna fight?? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

polished *drools* might not get mirrored finished, but i'll do my best, lol. and we have a powdercoater right down the road too...could always see what he would charge for that. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Thats a heck of a bold statement right there... They are pretty decent guns but they are no where close to the end all of guns. yep. while they are indeed nice guns, they have their issues. would i own another one? possibly, but there are many fine 1911s out there. some better, some worse. i want to touch on something here for everyone too. helotaxi has brushed on it, but i want to emphasize it a bit. ammo is equally important in your choice of firearm. like he has mentioned, with bullet technology being where it is at today, a 9mm is just as potent as a .45. but regardless of what brand firearm you purchase, if you run crap ammo, you will have a crap result. and in a life or death situation, having ammo that isn't reliable isn't an option. grab a reliable firearm that fits your hand, in a caliber you can control (and enjoy to shoot) and load it with high quality ammo. you'll want to practice a bit with the good stuff as well. POI will change from brand to brand, weight to weight, and even within same brand. ball will shoot differently then HP then SJSP. make sure you are consistant with what you will be relying on in the event you need to use it. and shoot, shoot, shoot! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

tom, just read that post. that's all you need done? send me a pan, with return shipping and whatever you think it's worth. i'll get it notched for ya bro. you want it tig or mig welded? would you like it painted afterwards? polished? just let me know what you want done and send me the pan. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

My bro-in-law does. Stainless welder by trade, but whacked together my outdrive when a tree fell on it. think he could notch a cast-AL oil pan? Probably, but he would need some instruction. If it were stainless he could do it in his sleep. the second post here explains what needs to be done: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472609 I have many months to figure this out so no rush at all. If he thinks he can do it though, I'll get a pan out to you/him. Out of curiosity what does Street & Performance charge to do it? Brian charges $40/hr for side work but I can surely run it by him and see if I can minimize any expense. I can't find an actual price on their site (what a mess) but I've heard it's in the $500 range, but that includes the pan. If I could find the dimensions of the LH8 pan and make sure that it's not too deep, then I could just go that route and not have to worry about notching one. The $500 was for a new pan, I'd call to ask them what notching the stock is. It would give you a baseline to laugh at if it is absurd anyways sorry i missed this, but i aluminum weld all day pretty much, lol. not much metal i can't weld. what are we trying to accomplish? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

OM, lets look at what ya just said. Porting to the rear. That makes no sense to me what so ever because if the port were to the rear, it would be slammed right up against where the floor pan steps up to a ledge that behind the seat, basically killing output...... period. Porting to the side. Yeah, ok, that would be the easiest way to do it, but, I don't like it because your basically firing the port into the door that a couple of inches away and trying to reflect it back to where.... the port and the side of the enclosure. Raising or not raising the seat, that's a simple one...... I leave that up to the customer given how he wants it done, his choice, not mine. that's fine, i didn't mean to smash on ya. my post came across wrong..but let's look at this.. while your fabs skills are fine, not knocking those whatsoever, i've owned that very model truck this box was built for. and regardless of your arguements, i know what works. how? because as i mentioned, i've built well over a dozen boxes to go under the seat, everything from four 8s to a single 12. sealed and ported. front fired, down fired and up fired. loudest ever? down fired pair of 10s with 3" round ports fired to the rear. second loudest? single ICON 12 down fired with 4" round port fired into passanger side door. but yeah, i dunno what i'm talking about. but don't listen to me, what do i know? right? my screen name isn't Mr. Cabinetry, so i gotta be wrong. maybe i just imagined all those builds. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Are you looking for an argument or what??? Sorry, your not gettin one because you got the attitude of " I am the authority " because you built 12 boxes for this one specific vehicle. Tell ya what, there's a member on here I built a similar enclosure for a Fi Q 12, here's the thread: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...;hl=excelerater Why don't ya go over there and post telling him how ya feel, I'm sure he would like to hear your input and observations. And one other thing, sometimes it's not about being how loud it sounds. nope, not looking for an arguement. i made a suggestion in my first post, and admitted that the way i typed it, it came across harsh. you then took it upon yourself to tell me i was wrong about rear fire, "basiclly killing output....period". and then tell me that side fire was just too easy. i then responded. that's all. i respond bluntly. and yes, i do consider myself a bit of an authority on this particular vehicle as i've built many boxes for it, not just for myself, but for others. i worked as a car audio installer, building boxes for this truck more times then i care to admit. and not only under the seat either, i've pulled my back seat out just as many times as i put a box under it. and like you, i have a box that belongs to another forum member right here at SSA, ask ILuvJDM if he enjoys his enclosure. again, i'm not doubting your work, or the results. i tried to make a suggestion for the next one you do, that's all. and yeah, it's not always about loud, but the majority of the time it is. and i have yet to have one sound bad. ask ///M5 how my truck sounded. with 4 10s upfired and sealed. yeah, i'm not the only with an attitude. i'll be sure not to make any suggestions to you in the future though, god forbid Mr. Cabinetry might not know it all. and you really don't want to argue with me anyway. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

x2 on everything tirefryr said. i will state that in the last three years or so, memphis quality has declined. they still have great customer service for dealers and will warranty jsut about anything, but with some of the crap they are producing.....and memphis prs are the best entry level mainstreme sub a person can buy, IME. the only thing memphis hasn't skimped on yet. and kicker's customer service for dealers is damn near as good as memphis's IME. quick turnaround times, and few questions, they'd warranty just about everything as well. and if they had an issue, we'd get a call. and the L7s rock. especially for loud, lol. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

OM, lets look at what ya just said. Porting to the rear. That makes no sense to me what so ever because if the port were to the rear, it would be slammed right up against where the floor pan steps up to a ledge that behind the seat, basically killing output...... period. Porting to the side. Yeah, ok, that would be the easiest way to do it, but, I don't like it because your basically firing the port into the door that a couple of inches away and trying to reflect it back to where.... the port and the side of the enclosure. Raising or not raising the seat, that's a simple one...... I leave that up to the customer given how he wants it done, his choice, not mine. that's fine, i didn't mean to smash on ya. my post came across wrong..but let's look at this.. while your fabs skills are fine, not knocking those whatsoever, i've owned that very model truck this box was built for. and regardless of your arguements, i know what works. how? because as i mentioned, i've built well over a dozen boxes to go under the seat, everything from four 8s to a single 12. sealed and ported. front fired, down fired and up fired. loudest ever? down fired pair of 10s with 3" round ports fired to the rear. second loudest? single ICON 12 down fired with 4" round port fired into passanger side door. but yeah, i dunno what i'm talking about. but don't listen to me, what do i know? right? my screen name isn't Mr. Cabinetry, so i gotta be wrong. maybe i just imagined all those builds. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

3.5 @ 32 would be my pick. though the other box wouldn't be bad, i'd take the one that was recommended. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

should've ported it to the rear. seriously. while i'm sure it'll sound just fine as is, fired to the rear, or to the side, is by far the loudest way to go, at least to the ear. and i've only build about 2 dozen of these things for under the seat. including for an ICON. and i've never had to raise the seat either. hehe wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hbd bro! hope it's a fun and safe one! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

if the rule says under 16 and you're at 15, then you're not bending the rules, lol. you are indeed following them. and i agree with you. if the MLA voltage controller is doing as advertised, then how was one suckered into it? but Adrian nailed it, the end user has to know what his batteries are wanting, and if he chooses to overcharge and cause the issue, not really the batteries fault. that said, one would like to assume that a battery designed for this very thing (car audio) would be capable of accepting a charge from any aftermarket alt or charger. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee