Nightshade

I hope that you get some flares for those ports. I bet it will get even louder if you were to do that. Not to mention that it will sound better due to the less port turbulence. I figured that the round ports would be louder, but just wanted to hear you say so I would stick with 3 4's when you do a new box as well. I do believe that you can just buy the flares instead of the entire port kit off of partsexpress.

What kind of difference did the 3 round ports make over the single slot port? Are those 4" pipe, or 3"?

Port at the top or bottom, or vertical in middle? Or does it matter? I would do ports at the bottom for aeros and also at the bottom for a slot. You could also try verticle in the middle for a slot port too. Like I said I reccomend aeros, but a slot would work well if it is flared. Personally I'd like to see a verticle slot port flared on each side. I think that would look pretty cool, and it would be loud as well. If you were using more of an spl driver I'd say do more port area and possibly just ports at the bottom of the box, but since it's for daily you can do a few other options without worrying about losing a few tenths on a meter.

No, he recently went to 3 woofers, but used to have one earlier in the season.

I agree with the 4 cuft total internal volume. Subs up port back will work well in your vehicle too. I do however reccomend using the aeroports over a slot port. They tend to sound better in daily applications, and I have seen increases in spl by using a flared port over a non flared one. If you were to do a slot make sure you do a kerfed flare at the exit of the port to cut down on noise and turbulence. It will also help your spl some. Maybe for those drivers around 20 sqin of port per sub, unless you plan on tuning super low. Then I'd say something like 28-38 sqin of port total for both subs.

I like this setup. It's nice and loud seems like it sounds good, and didn't cost you an arm and a leg to do over a 150 for your daily driver. I'm currently in my search for a 150 in my daily car and I'm only off by .3 db. All the equiptment is in the sig, and I hope to be joining you in the club here real soon.

Honestly if your not set on a 15 I'd say run a pair of ssd 10's on that amount of power. Also the box size for a pair of 10's ported is generally the same size if not smaller than that of a single 15 ported. The same goes for sealed.

On top of how stout your electrical is, it also depends on how much box rise you have during opperation. You may have a 1 ohm nominal load, but when the subs are played the reactive load may jump to 4ohms causing the amp not to make near rated power since it puts out max power at 1 ohm.

Nice I'm sure your gonna like it. Remember if you want a remote check out ebay for one of the older style remotes with the pause on them. I reccomend not using the bass at all in the settings, but rather using the 7 band eq to set the bass. All the bass setting will do is add distortion and probably send your amp into clipping.

My vehicle too is for daily beating, and only meter it to see if I've reached my goal for a 150 db 2 12" daily driver. Running at .5 is not reccomended, but is safe if you can supply the amps with enough juice to perform. I only have the stock battery up front and a Powermaster D3100 in the rear and don't drop below 12 volts on music that often. During a burp I go from 14.4 down to 12.6, so you could run them if you had a decent large battery or two. Still though I would be willing to bet that you will see more power and they will be louder if you run each amp at 1 ohm. When you run one per driver you are spliting the nominal impedence between the woofer instead of combining them into a single mono output. This allows the impedence rise to be less than what it would be if the amps are running strapped. For example if you had a nominal load of 1 ohm per amp and after rise was calculated by dividing the amps voltage by the current it puts out you would have the rise of the enclosure. That tends to be in multiples such as 2, 4, 8... So if you were at 1 ohm nominal the lowest you normally would see is a 1.X ohm load reactive. Now throw in the equation of two subs resistance across two amps at 2 ohms and with rise your probably only making power in the 4 ohm range. Which would mean that your amps are only making about 2300-2700 watts. Now if you were to split up that load across the two amps at 1 ohm per amp nominal the rise would be in the 2 ohm or more range allowing your amps to make more power since they are running at a lower impedence. In my car this made a 1.8 db difference by switching from one large mono amp with a 1 ohm load to 2 smaller mono amps at a .5 ohm load. They were different brand amps, but similar in power output in the end. It's something to think about and by no means do you have to try it, but if you want to do some testing and see which would be better you have some firm ground to stand on for starts.

I would cut that port area in half. I have 2 Nightshade 12's in 4cubes total with 4 4" aeroports. That comes out to be 50sqin for 2 subs. You can check my sig for the numbers, and that is daily not just burps. The car recently did a 147.3 in bassrace with a huge tear in the surround causing me to lose a little more than a db on a burp. So I'm assuming that it would bassrace even higher now since I've got fresh recones on both woofers. That is a stock Nightshade, yes? I did a 148.1 in the same box that I have now with the stock Nightshades and a Crunch GP3000D. Then I switched to the upgraded Nightshades and 2 SAZ 1500D's and did the 149.7 with that equiptment. If you need any help with a box let me know what kind of vehicle you have and I'll be more than happy to help you out.

What impedence are the coils? I have 2 1500d's wired at .5 ohms each and they make more power that way then they do at 2 ohms strapped. I'd be willing to bet if you could run one amp per sub you'd see more power and a gain in spl.

Merry Christmas back to the rest of you guys. Thanks for the present Jake

The TC drivers tend to like much smaller enclosures. 2.75 cuft is larger than I've ever seen anyone put one of those drivers in. With such a high Bl that woofer will get loud in a box that is 1.5-2cuft and with 10-15sqin of port per cuft. You'll more than likely have to lose box volume to get that sub to reach it's full potential not to mention a little bit of port area as well.

Damn Chris, you aren't messing around are you. I hope you do the 4 ported instead of 6 sealed.

I have the 6000UB and the only problem with it is that there is no pause on the remote. There is a pause function, but it's burried in a menu. I have an older Pioneer remote that has a pause and it is compatable with this deck so it's all good. You can get the older style remote with pause off of ebay for really cheap so that's not an issue. I like the deck very well. The 7 band eq is a very nice addition, as well as the detailed crossovers for highs and sub. It also comes with the ipod cable, and no extra parts are necessary to use with an ipod. I did have to buy a 6 disc changer to use with it though. That is because the car is doing a 149.7 and skips the deck in the dash, so I got the changer and eliminated the problem. It controlls the changer right through the deck so it's very convient to have. I have never skipped the changer

Let me start off with asking what is your overall goal? Loud daily is what I'm assuming that you want with some decent sound quality. I happen to be one of those guys that swears by aeroports and I could see that 15 getting pretty loud in around 3.5-4cuft with 3 4" aeroports. Thats a pretty common size box that I and friends have used for 15's of similar capabilities and have had excellent results. The only slight issue with going in a box that is 3.5 and tuning it so low is that the ports will have to be pretty long. 25" to be exact, but is not impossible to do. I've found aeroports to be louder than slot ports head to head for daily setups as well as sound better due to less port turbulence. Large spl setups are a different story where slot ports will continue to rule the world, but for daily/street vehicles the aeros are the best thing out there. Give it some thought and see if you may be willing to give em a try.

Hello to all SSA members. My name is Nightshade here and on SMD.com as well as Team Ol Skool.com I'm also know as AllNightLong on Termpro.com So I'm not new to the forum scene, just to this one. I figured it was time to expand my knowledge to another site since the one's I'm currently on aren't enough. I'm pretty much a car audio junkie and I soundoff veteran. I'm a member of Team Sundown and also of Team Nemesis. I compete in bassrace on a regular basis. Last year I finished 8th overall in points in the 129.9 division in North America. I do participate in Db Drag as well, but it is not my passion like bassrace. This year I have started out in 139.9, and I will remain there for the rest of the season. My car is currently capable of 149.7 db on the dash Db Drag style on the dash, and 151.8 db in the kick. The equiptment is all Sundown Audio and consists of 2 Sundown Audio Nightshade 12's with upgraded suspension, longer voice coil, and cooling option. They are powered by 2 Sundown Audio SAZ1500D's at .5 ohms each. Rounding out the front stage is a Kicker RS65.2 component set that is powered by a Cerwin Vega EXL400.4(basically an Arc Audio amp in CV case). The electrical is all done is 0 guage with a Powermaster D3100 providing the juice for the amps. All of this is in a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3, and is a loud daily driver. That's the system and everything in a nut shell. I'm a pretty opinionated person, but a nice guy overall if you get to know me. I love to talk audio on the forums and I'm quick to respond and ocasionally talk some trash. I look foward to expanding my knowledge here amongst some other hard core enthusiasts, and hopefully I can teach some of ya'll a thing or two while I'm here.

car: 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 Electrical: Stock battery in front 2 runs of 0 guage to the rear and a Powermaster D3100 in back. Stock alt. Amps: 2 Sundown Audio saz1500D'[email protected] ohms each. Subs: 2 12" Sundown Audio Nightshade's dual 1's with upgraded suspension, cooling option, and long coil. Box: 4 cubes ported with 4 4" aeroports tuned to 40hz for my daily bangin. Mic: New TL Tone: 52hz Score: Best so far is a 149.7 legal Db Drag style, 151.8 in the kick(with a bad sub), and 147.3 bassrace (with a bad sub as well) 164.6 in the port Straight up daily driver and bassracer, not a fart machine. Single 12 spl box soon to come with 1 Nightshade 12 and 2 1500D's strapped at .5 ohms

X2 on the 2 port thing. In my experiences slot ports work best when one is used per woofer. I wouldn't reccomend using a dual slot ported box, just use the same port area with one port.

These coaxials would get my vote if you don't mind buying off of ebay. I personally like to buy stuff of there and haven't had any issues with anything that I've bought. http://cgi.ebay.com/DIAMOND-AUDIO-D343i-4-...A1%7C240%3A1318

Happy birthday bro. Did you get your AARP card in the mail yet? you know I'm just kidding you man, but it sucks getting old doesn't it? I'll be right up there with you before too long man. I can't believe that I'm getting so close to 30.

I'm kinda partial to the Sundown Audio subs since that's what I run in my vehicle. There is a teamate of mine that throws 5K per Nightshade 18 to his and they hold up for the most part. He's broken quite a few, but if he were to be more careful with them they would take the power a little bit better. If you were to put 3K to each of them even for daily I'm sure that they would hold up no problem. Contact [email protected] for info about the woofers.

I found this site due to my teamates and manufacturer being members of the site. The company is Sundown Audio, and the teams are Team Sundown and Team Nemesis.