Nightshade

That's a good suggestion. I have a box that I designed for a pair of Nightshade 15's that uses 6 4" aeros and 6 cubes internally. It's tuning is hihger than you may like and is 40hz, but that's right where I like to have my boxes tuned to. I get them to drop a little lower by placing the port exactly 4" away from the hatch and it actually drops the tuning some.

Congrats bro! The score is something for me to shoot for

Do you have multiple ground locations? If so try moving the grounds to the same spot if possible. Also try grounding the deck to the vehicle chasis. If it's a Pioneer deck you may need to ground the rca shielding to the chasis of the deck to help eliminate the sound. Are you getting noise through all of your speakers or just the subs? Do you have an amp to the other speakers?

I do believe that those are the same components. What is the max depth that you are working with? I know in my wife's Civic I had to make 3/4" spacers out of mdf to fit speakers in the doors. The stock Honda speakers that come in the car have the spacer mounted right to the driver and just snapped right out. They weren't screwed into the metal at all. It made a huge difference though when the new speakers were in place. Most comp sets out there are around 3" deep so if you could get away with a spacer that opens up a lot of possibilities.

I feel priviledged cause I get to see those palets of sex all the time in person. Jake is only an hour and twenty minutes from me and I bother him and Brandon on a regular basis. I don't get all that excited anymore when I see the wall o amps, but it's still cool none the less. On another note that sub is taking the power like a champ. I'd like to see the sub on a 240 volt socket. I once put a L7 12 on 240 and it didn't even play, it just popped with a blue flame.

That was going to be my exact suggestion

Have you owned both? I've heard of less problems out of the new Cruch amps then the Sundown amps. I've owned both and never had a problem with either. It's just funny seeing you suggest an amp that has been refurbished as being reliable. There was obvioulsy a reason that it is refurbished. Now if you were saying which amp that you like better I can see you saying the saz3000d, but for the fact that I doubt you've even owned a Crunch GP3000d you really can't make that statement accurately. In fact how many refurbished Crunch amps do you see being sold online? Exactly You ain't got no proof to back up your statement that the Sundowns are going to be more reliable. Electronics fail, and both will do so at one time or another.

thanks for the offer... I'm a pretty seasoned builder so I should make it *design is way different in MECA Headrest metering is 2-3 db lower than dash (atleast in my testing) I have a set of stock Nightshades... Just an offer is all. But I do know that MECA vehicles are built to be loud at the headrest and not on the dash. For example I have a friend that competes in MECA and does a 151 at the headrest in one enclosure and does a 149.4 on the dash with the same box. Then he changes out his box for Db Drag shows and will do a 152.4 on the dash and only a 150.6 at the headrest with that box. It's pretty much how you set up the wave to peak and where you want it to in your car. I've never metered my car for MECA since I have no interest in competing there. I have metered in in Db Drag for fun since I go to Bassrace. I'm sure that I could do a build for MECA and be louder than my actual score for Db Drag now too. The wave just has less space to travel and I'm told that it's a bit easier to aim the box where it needs to be to get a good score. I'm sure that I could build a box that does good for Db Drag too, but I don't. I was just willing to offer you some info on what size enclosure and port area that works best for the sub since I've spent time and money figuring that out for myself. Also you kind of made it sound like it's harder to get a louder score in MECA and I don't agree with that. Your setup may be 2-3db down from on the dash, but it's not built to be loud on the dash

That's probably the stupidest thing that you could do. That amp is made for sub frequencies ONLY! I would love to see the look on your face when you hook up a nice comp set to your sub amp and see the smoke come rolling out of them after the first couple of notes. Because that's exactly what would happen. It would be priceless to hear what the tweets would sound like with a class D. I'm not even sure if they would play at all because of the crossover, but I'm sure that some signal would come through to them.

I'm sure that you'll like the Nightshades. I have two custom built 12's with all the bells and whistles. They're powered by a pair of saz1500d's at .5 ohms each. The best recored score I've got so far is a 149.7 on the dash sealed and a 151.8 in the kick sealed. The box is tuned for music at 40 hz so I'm not going for all out spl, but the car still peaks at 52 hz. Are your Nightshades stock or upgraded? Let me know if you want any help with a box, but I don't know if you need any different type of enclosure for a MECA build opposed to a Db Drag/Bassrace built enclosure. I've never metered my car at the headrest, so I don't know what exactly works better for that type of style.

The only real benefit of a quad coil sub is wiring ease. Why not just get some subs that will fill your load duties without having to spend an arm and a leg on an expensive way to rewire the subs?

Do you think when a spl competitor blows a sub at a comp and has to put in a brand new one to continue the show they break in the woofer before going into the lanes? Heck no, they put in the sub and go full tilt on it. I've talked to quite a few competitors that blow subs due to too much power and they have blown many subs even before they get a chance to break in. Myself I don't break in a woofer, but have noticed a difference in spl scores over time when the woofer's suspension starts to loosen up. That is making the woofer more efficient and will generally show a .1-.2 db increase on the TL when that happens.

To answer the #2 question if you were to cut a smaller hole and build a "tunnel" into the cab it would work but would technically be a bandpass enclosure. It would work out best if you could tune the "tunnel" to work with your other ported enclosure to form a 6th order series tuned bandpass and could output a huge gain if done correctly.

Higher is better. That's why some of the old ZED Audio Hifonics amps were the best on the market with their 115db sn ratio, as well as the 90's US Amps that were around the same rating.

I would just do sub up port back because a wall that far back in the vehicle is kind of pointless. If you were going to wall it at the b pillar than that's a different story. You may also see some cabin gain by port back subs up as well.

The formula is pi*r^2 In this case that would be 10.5*10.5*3.14=346.185 sqin of cone, not 1500sqin by a long shot.

Nick, I would have cut the hole for the sub all the way at the opposite end of where the port is instead of right in the middle of the baffle. If you would have put it on that end it give the wave more length to get out of the box and should be a little bit louder that way. It probably won't make that much of a difference but it's just a thought.

The E8's looked like they were bangin in the first video but not so much when they were in the car. Did it sound better/louder in the car or test area?

Looks good. Any vids yet?

What happened to the motor on the Axis? It just seems like an awfuly expensive sub to use it as a passive radiator. I would have used something else Imo and reconed the Axis for use in another box.

X2, I've reglued the dust caps on my Nightshades several times with the Loctite brand 5 minute epoxy. This was before Jacob started using epoxy on the caps and the CA didn't last. Now the caps haven't come off yet with the epoxy on them.

Sounds like it turned out very well for the both of you. I think that you may have created another bass head though. This is where it starts and I'm sure his obsession will only continue to grow from here. I bet those 8's are getting down pretty good, not to mention that the car itself is helping out some. You gotta love hatchbacks. I know that's the only reason that I bought mine Good work, now get that boy the Nightshades that he deserves.

Just find a company that price matches and your set. I believe that I heard somewhere that Summit Racing offers price matching. They have theirs listed for $349+shipping. It's worth a try and if someone does let us know if it works.

It depends on weather your going to step up box area or not. If you make the box larger then I'd say it will be beneficial to add another port. Not knowing how many cubes you have right now it's kinda hard for me to suggest to go up in port area or not. Let's say you have around 4 cubes right now and the 3 4" ports give you 9.42sqin per cuft. That is a decent amount of port for a daily box, but if you want to get louder you could keep the exact same box size and just add the other 4" port. That would bring you up to 12.56sqin per cuft. With 4 it would be a perfect compromise between an all out spl box and a strictly daily banger. Find out what actual volume your going to be going with and then make your decision on how many ports to use then.

I'd say it looks like a Q to me. It has the bumped T yoke just like the Q does. I don't recall the yoke on the ssd being that big.