Nightshade

Bs, they won't be available until May

Okay here are the new pics for today. I didn't get a ton of work done but it's progress and I'm getting closer to being finished. Got the second baffle cut out and ready to glue on. I used some titebond here to glue the baffle onto the first baffle. I also screwed it together with 1 1/4" screws. I sanded the entire enclosure too. I rounded over all the corners except the bottom of the box. Here are a few of the box with the subs just sitting in the holes. They fit very snug and look great in there. I wish I would have screwed the outside flares for the aeroports in the box just to see what it was going to look like. Tomorrow is looking like resin if it's warm enough. I'm planning on doing some resin and while I'm waiting on it to dry I'm going to go out to my car to clean up the wiring and maybe move the D3100 to the other side of the car. Anyone got any suggestions up to this point? Thanks for looking guys and for all of the positive feedback. I'm sure that you will be impressed with videos of this thing when it's done cause the 12's were absolutely brutal and made the car flex like crazy. I never put up any videos of it, but I'm sure you guys won't let me get away with that on this build

Anyone want anymore pics?

I have a question for you guys. What would be loudest for spl, if I left the battery on the passenger side and have the box closest to the driver's side like it is now in this picture without the box? Or should I move the battery to the driver's side and have the box all the way up against the passenger side of the car? I can't center it cause it's so wide and that is the only place for the battery. Thanks guys, and I should have some more pics tonight if anyone's interested.

Congrats Danny! I'm not sure when I'll be back to Sumter, but it will be here soon. I'm trying to get this box ready for the NSPL show in High Point on March 1st. I'm really hoping for a 151 or better on the dash. I had a strange problem happening in my car where I lost about a db on the dash. I think it was because of my stock battery under the hood and I replaced it. I hope that made my score go back up. I'm going to do some thurough testing when I get the box in the car. The aeros are teh shiz. Those dowels are 1 1/4" oak.

I have an update with a few pics of today's progress. It's my wife's birthday so I can't do anymore work today cuase I'm taking here out for dinner. Enjoy! There's not a ton of bracing, but I will have 2 baffles once it's complete. I also ran into a small snag today. I'm not going to be able to do 45's in every corner cause there isn't enough room to do them with some of the port holes and the speaker holes so I'll do every corner except the few I can't. Any feedback is welcome. Does anyone have any predictions on the numbers that it will hit. Keep in mind that I did a 149.7 in the same car with 2 Nightshade 12's and what I've done here is added a stronger battery under the hood, upgraded to 2 15's, and built a new larger box.

It will be at 38hz, but I do always have the option of plugging one or two of the aeroports to bring the tuning to either 35 or 31hz. I like a bit higher tuning cause I go to quite a few comps and need it to do well on the meter. My car's resonant frequency is 51hz so I'm tuned a bit lower than I should be but I really intend this to be loud for daily and bassrace.

Thank you. I should have some more pics tomorrow. I loved my Nightshade 12's and I can only imagine how badass the 15's are gonna sound when they are in the new box. My last box was tuned to 40ish hz and this one is tuned to 38. I can't go much lower cause I don't have the room to make the box bigger or get longer ports inside the box. This was pretty much as low as I could go with 15's.

I started this thread on SMD yesterday and I thought some of you guys here might like it.

Okay here are the pics that I snapped from today. The empty car and the wiring that I need to clean up. These are the aeroports from my 12 box that I had to get back for this one. There are two brand new ones too for the box Lowes cut my wood FTL!!! I had to go home and break out the table saw and fix er up. Some titebond ftw. I had to break out the jig saw. My router broke over a year ago and I haven't replaced it yet. I still cut pretty damn good holes for a jig saw though. I love this pic. I brought the box inside cause I live in an apartment complex and all I have is a storage closet and a porch. I didn't want to leave the box outside. I'm not a very tiny guy either. I'm about 6 feet tall and I just wanted to show how big this box actually was. It's 8.5 cubes internally before any displacements. This is where it sits for now. I'm going to do a litte work tomorrow. I still need to start cutting the dowel rod for bracing. I'll do the second baffle after that. The it'll be ready for some sanding to round over the corners. Finally I'll start to resin the whole thing and do my 45's out of resin in each corner.

The TC Sounds 5200's are 4hp motors along with the Audio Pulse LMS Ultra's.

Is there an arm rest in the rear seat? If so you could fire the subs either up or back and then have the port out the back of the box through the arm rest or even up through the rear deck. You could get some elbow pieces to use aeroports and curve them right up to the speaker holes in the rear deck or if there are no holes cut some for your own. I'd probably use 2 6" aeros in this case. A little more port area would probably work best but you really don't have anywhere for it to go. You could just do woofers up and the ports foward at the top of the box so they fit on top of the shelf in the back of the trunk. Then the port would be firing right into the seat and would need a way to get into the cabin like an arm rest. You would also have to use external aeros for that.

GP3000 has the same board as the AB200.1, Atomic 3000.1 Really? I had no idea. Mine that I had was wired to 1 ohm nominal and on a burp was at 3.88 reactive. At 3.88 ohms on a drop in voltage to 12.8 volts I was making 1922 watts. That's a ton of power being made at almost 4 ohms. If I could have gotten the reactive down and had less voltage drop it would have easily done it's 3K rating. Eric Alexander is getting something like 4800 out of his GP3000d's at .35 nominal with it rising to 1 ohm on 16 volts.

Actually I did take it the same way, but you are entitled to your opinion; I will let you speak your mind and prove your point. I am not a person to get angry, no worries. Sorry if you took it that way, but when I first read your remark that said "where are you getting your info from?" I though he may be calling me a liar and an idiot. The I said to myself no he isn't doing that. That's how I read it though. You read and interperate things the way you want to. Sarcasm and joking are often interperated as rude or hateful online. Sorry there's no sarcasm button, but that's why I put the lol after the one comment.

So Duran, you responded to my quote here where I said the US Amps won't even do 4000 watts on it's best day. You responded with where do you get your info from US Amps is a reputable company and will do it's rated power. Next time don't question me if it has nothing to do with what question your asking. I NEVER said that they wouldn't do rated power. I said they won't ever do 4000 watts on it's best day which US Amps claims is the dynamic power as well as where they get the XT4000D from. Now he was also asking if the Crunch was a better amp than the US amps and as far as power the Crunch does TWICE the rms as the US. So therefore CRUNCH>US Amps. NEWB!!! lol Relax. Get down off your pedestal. I don't like reading a reply and getting irritated at the mood of the commenter. I don't want to sound like a dick, but you came off really rude. :bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap: Don't read it if you don't like how it sounds. I wasn't coming off as a dick nor am I now. Some people don't know how to read stuff on the internet. I like Duran and there's no ill will between us at all and I'm sure that he didn't take it the same way as you. So chill out maaaaannnn Bassaholic, X2 to you as well. I don't like being asked where do I get my information from as if I'm some type of moron. I know that wasn't his intent but it's funny how some people can take stuff out of context on the internet. Ironic huh? Read my post above and relax buddy.

So Duran, you responded to my quote here where I said the US Amps won't even do 4000 watts on it's best day. You responded with where do you get your info from US Amps is a reputable company and will do it's rated power. Next time don't question me if it has nothing to do with what question your asking. I NEVER said that they wouldn't do rated power. I said they won't ever do 4000 watts on it's best day which US Amps claims is the dynamic power as well as where they get the XT4000D from. Now he was also asking if the Crunch was a better amp than the US amps and as far as power the Crunch does TWICE the rms as the US. So therefore CRUNCH>US Amps. NEWB!!! lol

Here you go buddy right from Us amps website. It's 1500 rms at 1 ohm and says that it does 4000 watts dynamic power. Everyone knows dynamic power doesn't mean chit. Quit being a newb. http://www.usamps.com/xt_amps.html Edit: Us amps USED to be a very reputable company in like 2000. Now they over rate their low end models like most other big companies. The only amp that they make the will more than likely do rated power are their Merlin and AX Series amps.

The Crunch > US Amps. The US Amps won't even do 4000 watts on it's best day. The Crunch will do every bit of 3K and then some at lower than 1 ohm.

I agree with everything that you said the guys from CA said. The hdc's will be louder and are more comparable to the btl. The btl's will probably sound better, but for the money you'd be way further ahead by getting the Audioque subs over the bl's.

Are you sure about that? Cough... Kicker bass knob cough... lol Jacob you know what I'm talking about

I believe that the level 4 xl's have the level 5 coils standard in them. There is a level 4 coil as well, but is different from the level 5 coils which are used in the level 4xl's.

It's a universal knob so you can use if for your 1200d too.

I agree with Drew too. If you overpower a woofer with clean undistorted power it should't fail unless it isn't properly cooling. Most subs have a decent cooling system and will take 2X the rms with no problems as long as you are not beating the piss out of it for 30 minute consecutive intervals. I know of several people running a saz3000d on 16 volts on a Nightshade and the NS handles it all day long. It has the same power ratings as the IA Dp subs and a saz3000d on 16 volts puts out around 5K watts depending on the impedence.

Dj's truck is brutal. It's the loudest 4 18's I've ever heard. The truck is louder now than when Justin had it too. I'm sure that Dj didn't even have it turned all the way up in the videos too. He doesn't usually open it up on people like he does some of us. I'm pretty sure that most of the time he doesn't demo it all the way up. You guys should hear it when he let's it rip for real! Or try sitting in the truck for a burp. Game over

Actually you could get away with the Nighshades in a box that size. I think that they would sound nice and work quite well. I have my Nightshade 12's in a much larger box than reccomended and they friggin pound. The reccomended for the 12's is 1.5 per sub and mine are in 2. Up until recently I had the loudest daily driver with a pair of Nighshade 12's too and was only topped by .5db, and was only due to the guy having 2 more batteries and a ho alt that I don't have.