Dutchie.

I currently have two Fi SSD 15's being powered by an Audioque 2200d. The output and accuracy of these speakers is amazing, but I feel it is time for a new system to toy with, so they will be going up for sale soon. Also, the box that they are in is slightly too large for my vehicle, so the configuration had to be sub up, port up. I am looking to do four 12's in about 6 ft^3 with a sub up, port back configuration. The only concern I have is losing the low notes. I absolutely love them and play a lot of slowed or chopped and screwed music. The 15's are tuned to 30hz and that is probably where the 12's will be tuned to. I am looking into four sa-12's, but am still keeping my options open. What subs/configuration/etc. would you recommend from experience? The vehicle is a 1993 Range Rover LWB with a 220amp alternator, 1/0 big three, and the second battery will be put in when I get home. It's a 35ah Shuriken. My voltage doesn't drop below 13 volts as it is, so electrical should be okay. As far as goals, this system will just be a daily beater. Looking for something musical that can tap into the lower not spectrum, and also doing this box with aeroports just for fun.

I reasoned that running four 12's would yield less space, but I see what you're saying with the volume the motors use. I was actually planning on inverting them, so the motors wouldn't use box space, and I could run them in 6-7 ft^3, which would be smaller and work with the space I have. I'll definitely think about this though, because four 10's would be a better deal. Just gotta work with the dimensions.

Most all fast food places are horrible for you .. I choose not to eat there as much as I can.

Leaning towards 12's, but that is a great deal.

Getting bored of them. I like to change things up a bit. Also, I would prefer a sub up/port back instead of sub up/port up. With the 15's, I have no room to do this.

Right around $600 This is true, and I did not think about this. I'll definitely be on the lookout for some SSD's too.

I think the capacitor is sucking the voltage when it is recharging because the capacitor is so large, which is causing the voltage to dip some. Make sure the engine ground goes to the (-) of the battery, as well as the frame. When you do the big three, make you you add the additional wires along with the stock ones, do not remove anything. If you removed any stock wires, I would recommend replacing them. Try doing this and then running the system without the cap. For a voltmeter, I would recommend attaching the leads to the wires right as the enter the amp, therefore you are seeing the voltage the amp is receiving.

I did think about this. It depends on what presents itself first. I wish I could, trust me, but it would be a little over the budget for now.

Thanks for the input! There are two Lethal Injection 12's for sale pretty close to me that I was looking at earlier, but I won't be buying anything until the 15's are sold and I am home. It looks like the 12's are going to be a go!

Prayers out to the little guy. I hope all goes well.

Welcome! I hope you enjoy your stay and get all the info you need! I know this website has really helped me grow, and it can do the same for you.

1) You should have a fuse on the positive lead coming from the front battery to the rear or second battery and also a fuse before your amp. 2) Yes you can, but this adapter will probably have to be custom made. You can get a thin piece of metal, bend it and drill it to fit on your post, then tap it so you can screw the ring terminals onto it. I saw something similar on a build log somewhere on this website. If I have to do it when I install my battery in May, I'll do a log of it for you! 3) Yes, you should do front battery (+) to rear battery (+) and front battery (-) to rear battery (-). Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any more questions. EDIT: Spelling

The best method I could think of is bolting the wood to the steel. As stated above there should be some method of mechanical fasteners. I have no heard, nor come across a product that could work effectively in bonding wood to steel, or any other type of metal.

Compound turbos are more fun. Its like: go .. GO

You definitely need to do the big three. Do that and get rid of the cap. If all that doesn't work you should check all of your grounds and wire connections throughout your vehicle.

The general rule of thumb is Watts/Voltage = Amperage. Maybe that could help you out with your selection.

Yes

TGIF

I have a 220amp, 1/0 big three, and an optima yellow top up front for my Aq 2200d, and my voltage doesn't move much at all. Doesn't dip below 13 volts. I'm gonna add a small battery to the back to keep it around 14.

I stopped drinking soda a while ago. I feel more fit and healthy than I ever have before.

Hello there. Good luck with the build!

Well, since this thread seems to have run away from the topic, at least to me, I will add my $.02. I don't really care what graphs looks like, what people say, any of that. I judge a speaker by my ear. If I like how it sounds, I'll buy it. If I don't like how it sounds, I won't buy it. EDIT: Spelling

Sweet tea is the best.

If you extend this till my summer when I have more $$ I'll buy 4!

With a bayonet? Yup You sir, have a crazy old man.