johnecon2001

How about the Alpine 9887? $230 http://www.6ave.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=ALPCDA9887

They're great subs, too bad Oz went out of business years back.

Battery doesn't has anything to do with keeping the volts above 13V, the alternator does. If u can't manage to keep the voltage steady at 14V or more at this moment.(without strapping at 1 ohm) I wouldn't risk it.(but it's you're equipment, do what you want, all we can do is advise. ) I'm sorry, but it certainly does. Most people cannot afford or simply are not able to run multiple large alternators under their hood. So you need a large reserve of batteries to supply the voltage to the amp. The alternator just keeps the batteries charged at that point.

You're asking too broad of a question. Try reading the helpful topics in my signature.

Specs on the enclosure?

Opinions can be found by googling. What exactly do you want to know?

Try sending power to one coil and take your DMM to the other coil. Measure the voltage coming off of it.

MOAR pics u hoser.

Nope, then you'd have equal power going to each sub but the sound waves would be canceling each other out. Thus giving you lots of movement, but not boom boom. He wired one in series and one in parallel. Sending one more power than the other because of the lower ohm load.

Use google lazy bum. http://tinyurl.com/37twoxp

Yep, talking about regular ole OFC speaker wire.

Even if you could somehow magically keep the voltage above 13v (good luck, you'll need a largish battery), there's no evidence on the web about these things being run at .5 ohms and surviving for any period of time. Its a cheaper amp. I wouldn't run it lower than 1 ohm. If you feel the need to strap them, strap them at 4 ohms.

If the wire runs next to each other, it could have gotten hot enough to melt internally and short against the other lead.

Maybe try all new wire. Then follow this picture to the minute detail

Steel is generally quite expensive. Most people use concrete... or layers of wood

Maybe try actually calling RE...? none of us have the power to grant you free shit. Personally though, I'd clean up your install before I asked for anything from a company. You have a box, a battery and an amp just laying in your trunk. Looks like balls.

no listing for flatlyne in that link That's why he said to follow the Lethal Injection guidelines.... alternatively... you could read the sticky at the top of the forum. The specs are listed there.

If he's asking a forum... its probably not over 2kW. Which means 12awg will be more than adequate..

Lets try moving this to the right forum..

I hurd he's a poser. What's up Steve? I've got a new system at the church for you to listen to. When you coming back to AZ?

Subwoofer Enclosure Calculators, Fraction to Decimal, Parallel, Series, Port Length and Volume Calculators

What are your depth restrictions behind the seats?

You heard wrong. The recone will fix it all. The damage has nothing to do with you hooking the positive and negative up backwards. It's caused by over excursion as Nick has already explained. User error.

Pretty sure the G1 is going to be stuck on 1.6 unless you can confirm this 2.1 story.

That thing is HORRIBLY inaccurate, please don't recommend people use it.