johnecon2001

You definitely don't have enough room per 12" for an RL-p. iirc, they like the bigger sealed boxes to really shine.

Our box tool is functional if you want a very basic Slot Ported box.

The Motor does not get bigger with options added. Displacement stays the same.

I wouldn't suggest them period.

If it were me.. I'd prefer to not be limited by existing boxes.. but if you havvee to use them..... Looks as if the SSA ICON is the way to go. The 12" model would be more than happy in your $450 boxes.

So you have a little less than 2^3ft feet sealed? Do you have room for a 15" sealed? The Soundsplinter RL-p 15" would work well in that space with that power. It comes in DVC4 and DVC2. You could add some poly fill to the box to trick the sub into a larger enclosure as well. Another option is the Stereo Integrity Magnum. V4 edition is just arriving in the states. It's specifically engineered to be a low box volume SQ subwoofer (think .5^3ft per woofer). It comes in 12" DVC2 only. One would be more than enough for what you're looking for. Thirdly is the Incriminator Audio Flatlyne. I'm unsure on box sizes for this driver. 15", and DVC2 would probably work in your space though. Last up, the one and only SSA ICON. DVC1 or DVC2. You're a bit out of space for what the 15" wants, but a Single 12" or even a Dual 10" setup would sound excellent.

Those amps are sweet.

Stock battery in the trunk? Niceeeee.

8awg is soooo overkill for that. Just use 12awg. If the subwoofer needed 8awg power leads.. I'd put money on Fi putting 8awg terminals on it.

Are you getting to install the PR's? I want to see completed pics

With only 750w on tap, a ported SSD 15" or a Q 15" (with no options) would fit your bill nicely. If you can't fit a 15", a 12" sub will be very potent as well.

This one will work fine http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P

You can find out all about the BL options here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7154

You can use a DMM to find the ohm load on each coil of the A-bahn and lol, I just found the "specs" on that amp. 2 x 300w @ 4 ohms 2 x 450w @ 2 ohms Stable from 2-4ohms stereo and 4-8ohms mono

Sizing of a subwoofer usually has little to nothing to do with how it sounds. Your box will play the biggest role there. I'm moving this to the Ascendant forum, so those guys can tell you if it's possible to recone to a bigger size.

I'm in on the Orion as well.

Man I am not doing this for the amusement. I never said I thought it was ok. I just said a guy that owned one had minor upgrades to his stock electrical. I understand you guys know a lot, but your comprehension skills suck. Pay attention or don't say nothing. I never said I was gonna run a stock electrical. Maybe you should have mentioned that in your first post, jakcalope. Don't be a dick because you forgot to mention something pertinent. So yeah... maybe you should pay attention. I did not forget it. It was not the topic so it did not apply. I did not say I was using I said a guy. There goes the comprehension again. What was stated was only done to pretty much give an idea of them being used as a daily amp. Either answer the topic question and not assume about my electrical or shut the fudge up? Again I say, Jbl W15Gti or IA DP21? You keep talking about reading comprehension.. dude. You didn't even have an OP question. You asked what we thought. And for the TS parameters of the DP, which no one but IA has. Me>you. Once again.

Go get sloppy with some Romanian Chicks! [no fatties]

Man I am not doing this for the amusement. I never said I thought it was ok. I just said a guy that owned one had minor upgrades to his stock electrical. I understand you guys know a lot, but your comprehension skills suck. Pay attention or don't say nothing. I never said I was gonna run a stock electrical. Maybe you should have mentioned that in your first post, jackass. Don't be a dick because you forgot to mention something pertinent. So yeah... maybe you should pay attention.

Careful buddy.. your current attitude is not welcome here. Cross section and strand count are ultimately more important than color. Internal copper diameter is also a key factor. A lot of places use a thick outer jacket and measure off of that, so be careful on who you believe has thicker cable. Strand count helps with flexibility of the cable, but also gives a good measuring point when comparing to other cables. With you planning on extra alternators and massive electrical upgrades, "pretty" cable should be the least of your concerns.

You win for making the most ignorant statement I've ever heard.

You don't have a tape measure?

How many runs of wire from the alternator to the rear batteries do you have? If it's less than two, run another one. Try running two sets of ground wire all the way up front as well.

So let me get this straight.. you now think it's perfectly normal to run a 7000w amplifier on a stock electrical system? lol, good luck with that.

Eclipse CD8053 vs Sony CDX-C90 & XDP-210EQ