johnecon2001

The Brutus isn't know for it's stellar build quality.

Just drop the BL off your list right now. You're running HAT drivers, run a sub that will blend with them

Guess we know who bought up some of TC sounds stuff now lol

What can you afford? Have you done the Big 3 yet? How many runs of 1/0awg do you have running back to your amp?

woah there chief.. before you just go off on a hunt to have everyone else answer your questions, perhaps you should do some ground work of your own. Most of what you want to know can be found via the SEARCH button. Pending you don't find the extreme technical answers that you need, http://bcae1.com/ will be what you need to read next.

Indeed, The SSD with Flatwind and BP Power would certainly match up to your amp while out performing that Type-R in one of Fi's recommended enclosures.

When people refer that they kill subs, its due to overdriving the line level and clipping the amp. This sends a square wave (DC) to the sub and smokes it. 9 times out of 10, this can be avoided by setting your gains with an oscilloscope.

What's your budget for electrical components to support the amps? You need to go measure your usable space as well

That would be my guess as well. Just as an example, Copper prices PLUMMETED recently to almost 20% of what they were last year.

http://cdn1.ustream.tv/swf/4/viewer.45.swf?cid=317016

Either of those would be a fine choice, based off of your music selection.

Locking this, because you got your answer.

Don't yell, in particular when you are wrong. well im just saying that if you wanna come here, i will prove you wrong...stop acting cocky, and get your ass over here to feel like a dumbass, better yet, i dont even want replies from you, please dont give me any....just fudge off, and go to what you think sounds better Watch your attitude son, or I will remove you from this forum.

1994-1997 have the same Engines. And the same location for alternators. The USDM Accord never came with an H22.

How about a link to the rest of your equipment? Sounds like you need a new receiver though.

The alternator is a BITCH to get to. Take off the drivers front wheel and it'll be on the bottom/back of the engine.

I agree with option two as well. You should also spend quite a bit of time preparing your doors for those speakers. Just running active alone isn't enough to ensure better sound.

Obviously, adding a higher output alternator would be ideal. But you should be fine for now.

What does the copper coil option do? Does it make the sub more efficient? yes, and makes it less likely to "peak". It also increases power handling. It actually decreases power handling.. The flatwind option increases it.

450w per driver would sound fine. I'd also add the copper coil option to them.

I just find out about the compatibility issue, but about the imprint I think it will be usefull to achieve the sq tha I'm looking for, don't you think? Well.. I'm not sure what you're looking for SQ wise.. but no. I don't think it will help you achieve any results without first tending to how you plan on installing the drivers and what sound deadening you'll be applying to the car.

I don't believe the H701 is compatible with the 505. Gotta go back down to the 205 to use it. That imprint stuff is mostly a gimmick anyway. With proper deadening, placement of speakers and gain settings.. you do everything it would do. And you'll sound better to boot.

http://www.quickcar.net/tools/tl_ic.html Home Depot carries them too. Saw one the other day.

Seems the logical option here would be to wire them in Parallel>Series. Four tweets per channel. Wire two in parallel to 1.5Ω a set, then wire two sets in series to 3Ω.

I wouldn't be concerned with a line driver adding noise in your subs.. you'll never hear it.