johnecon2001

He lives in Kuwait.

1080p capable simply means it will accept the signal, but then down convert it to 720p. Most 720p projectors already do this, 1080p is just a buzz word recently, so anything that is labeled with it is guaranteed to sell. Personally though, 720p is not out of date, but close. Buy 1080p.

Here's some pics of it, and rough specs http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/MMATS_D300HC/

Sounds like a plan, hopefully Sean will pop in eventually and recommend you a tweeter and midrange to go along with the E8.

I wasn't aware that you could band-pass with the old one too

Well, the new ones will, but he has an older 100.4 iirc.

I just changed my old PG Tantrum 1200.1 (great amp by the way) for a JBL GTO 14001 and I gained about 3 dbs! I'm driving a JL 13W7. So I think It really does rated power. How did you measure the 3db gain? Audio Control RTA So about a 1.5dB gain in real life then.

Self help - http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/product...sure_tools.html

With the new 100.4D, you'll have everything you need. Run the front output from the HU to the D, and run the rear to the old bridged 100.4. Highpass the old 100.4, and put a lowpass on it at around 400hz. The rest I can't tell you now because I forgot what front speakers you were getting.

I wouldn't worry about choking it. How do you think the quadruple baffled subwoofer guys get away with it lol. As far as power, are you running active up front yet? You could bridge the 100.4 you have now for the E8's, then pick up a 100.4D for running your front stage active.

You got a tape measure?

ah HAH. Cool that you finally figured it out.

That picture shows us nothing since you took it at an angle.

That's just your opinion dude. My opinion is alot of people bash the W7s and make claims that their cheaper subs are superior and aren't. Its not an opinion. More like a proven fact.

All of your topics have been merged (they all contain the same basic question).

More importantly, what does your electrical consist of to run this beast of an amp?

Home theater audio usually plays far below 30hz for movies..

Guess mine, guess mine!

Short of running your front speakers active in order to send a bit more power to your mids.. have you deadened and prepped your doors yet? A lot of sound can be lost in a leaky door. Your Bose stuff probably had specially made speaker boxes and baffles for each driver correct? You can't put new drivers in those, because they're not made for those drivers. And you can't just pop them in the door because a door is metal.. and resonates. This should help fill the gap between your front stage and your subwoofer frequency wise. Another thing you should look into doing is shrinking your box. A smaller sealed box will catch some of the upper low end frequencies a little better than a larger one will. You can also stuff the current box with Polyfill to see if it helps or not.

For you, I'd get the BL.

DIY http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/product...sure_tools.html

There are a couple of cheaper options that you could do before upgrading your alternator. The Big 3 shouldn't cost more than $50 in parts. It will provide better conductivity from alternator to battery to chassis. A second thing you could do is get a larger battery for under your hood. Something like a Kinetic, or a PowerMaster would do wonders for you. Lastly is to add a battery in the back, next to your amp. If all this doesn't help at all, it's time to get a High Output alternator.

Did you have a specific model in mind?

Read this topic please http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7153 It will answer all your questions about what the options do for you.

Hay alan! You should do a build log here someday