johnecon2001

http://reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

Maybe so you can buy that other stuff???? Upgrade your front battery. When you have more $$$ buy a second one for the rear. Then when you have more $$$ buy an alternator.

How about a budget and what your current electrical upgrades are? What about your box? What size is it, what tune.

O look! Stickies right above where you posted http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7153

Jesus, chill jon.

Why not make composite cones an option to add? Just like the other customizable things you can do to your subs before ordering.

One SSD per channel might be a better plan. I assume you're using this for a home theater, so add the Copper coil option and the BP Power option. As far as tuning that low however, the SSD doesn't thrive down there. Sure it can play, but if you want something native that loves being down that low... go to the Q.

Should me more than ok.

Federal Couragia MT's 265/75/16 I couldn't run 285's when I bought them because of a backspacing issue using those OEM wheels. I've got a 1/4" spacer up front now, so I should be good to upgrade Mark forgot to mention how much of a sissy he was when I drove up a running river. Psh, we were FINE.

Ok, now that program is bad ass !!! Just with the built in laptop mic it works. Now, is there a better mic I should get? There are a few high end options. But for a good cheap mic, the Behringer ECM8000 is around $50 on ebay. I've used it quite a few times to tune professional sound systems. You'll need a USB audio interface as well. M-Audio makes a couple of cheap boxes.

ehh it'll do in a pinch. It's a little limited on what it can display on it's lcd since it's so small. I much prefer SMAART Live on a laptop over that thing.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7153

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=8161 http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7156 All you need to know is posted in the stickies in the Fi Forums.

the box jumping a little? or the were two screws loose. so the warranty most likely wouldn't cover it? And what made the box jump "a little"? Im not sure. It wasn't screwed into the truck or anything. So how exactly were you driving when you cracked the motor? Was the box shifting and sliding all over the place? Sounds like it was your bad though the way we're having to pull information out of you.

Silicone would be much easier.

the box jumping a little? or the were two screws loose. so the warranty most likely wouldn't cover it? And what made the box jump "a little"?

Indeed it is.

Have you checked your other wiring to see what else might be the problem?

you know that the hard drive of the PS3 has approx a 2x2x.5 inch neyodimium magnet? and ive had a 4" cube neyodimium magnet about that close aswell... Doesn't matter.. it can still wipe the data off or fragment it. Not smart.

He needs a new motor. And the only way that should have cracked like you describe is if you dropped it.

You ripped the surround? You don't need a recone for that.

Looks like you have your answer then. If you don't want to get rid of the 125.2's get the DVC2 IDQ.

Same answer. You're still going to drop below that 2 ohm load at certain frequencies, and even running at 2 ohms for too long is going to kill it. Run the amp where the manufacturer suggests you run it.

what about 1 Fi BTL on a 3000D? Other than that, I'd get option 3, except I'd change them to 10" woofers too allow the correct amount of box space.

Nothing wrong with 12.2v... possibly all his car outputs. That amp will be perfect for a single DCON