johnecon2001

Time to tell your boss to invest in the Saw Stop. You woulda been fine had you had that.

Your box size is fine for two 18" BTL's.

You shouldn't be deciding what subwoofers to buy based off of what you saw on some shitty youtube video dude. You have too much power for those woofers. Either choose a different amp and run the Q's, or buy the BTL's. Xmax has nothing to do with how loud you *Might* get btw.

It's a subwoofer.. if you're lacking higher MIDbass, look to upgrading your front stage and deadening.

Stick with what you can fit easily and what is within Fi's spec.

You don't get out much, do you?

Depending on box and your skill as an installer, will tell you how long the BTL can handle the power. Also depending on box and install, you may seed dB gains with more power, but you can't put a number to it like 3dB.

Since Scott designed the old XXX, I'd imagine he's perfectly capable of reconing it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-1997-H...sQ5fAccessories Had this on my old Accord. There are other options, but DC is still good stuff. Edit: no downpipe, that sucks.

# RMS Power Rating * 4 ohms: 700 watts x 2 chan. * 2 ohms: 1200 watts x 2 chan. * 1 ohm: 1800 watts x 2 chan. You're just asking for trouble running that at .5 ohms bridged. Wire it to 2 ohms.

I don't believe you can use the preouts along with the internal amplifier..

It's not the same stuff, but that stuff does work quite well. I've mostly seen it used in positional barriers. Meaning it would have a solid wood back and be covered in some acoustically transparent fabric. Panels 4x4' or smaller position how you want in your room to fit your needs.

Passive cross overs are made with a specific woofer in mind. You can't use them with equally the same results on a different woofer. Best option for you would be to learn how to make a specific passive crossover for them. Or run your front stage active.

That's what I'll be using for my L1Pro/L8 setup. 1 KS125.2MINI and 1 KS125.4MINI

Give us something to work with and we can help you. All we know is that you own a sub that you think you can put 8500w's to.

Play with the density of the fiberglass insulation too. You may be able to get away with less.

He's not looking for car dampening guys. He wants a theatre based solution. You need to start off with fiberglass insulation or Rockwool in the walls. There's a board at home depot that has the same dimensions as most drywall, but it's made up of a peatmoss material. Add a layer of that around the walls of the room and cover with drywall. After you get all that done, you can address the ceiling. If you have an attic, blown in insulation is going to be the cheapest solution. Back to the walls. You can tune the room by hanging acoustical paneling and foam in certain areas. Corners can be bad bass traps at times and you want to distribute that sound. The back of the room needs treatment to kill reflected sound.

Peel n Seal is not for home use. edit: well... not for interior use

Check out this thread for a direct comparison of the SSD and ICON http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=25469

You can fit a HC2400 under the hood.

I'll actually be going to visit my buddy who lives in Missouri. He owns an 07, so I can take a quick glance back there with some measurements.

NICE! Glad it got to you ok (took a little longer than I thought it would). It's such a great sounding sub. So what are the specs of the box you have the ICON in now?

This ^

You're joking right? First, there is no C series. Its the PRS Series. The D Series is below the PRS. The 720 is the FLAGSHIP of Pioneers speaker systems. The D series might sell better, but they're certainly not the better series.

Based on the specs, the whole motor is different and the coils handle more power. I'd say a completely different woofer.