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Everything posted by johnecon2001
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amp help for an fi Q
johnecon2001 replied to B7L|BL4Z3R's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
You know the drill. Start with budget and goals. -
They're circle.. instead of square.
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Copper coil will help with the sound quality and actually drop power handling a bit. Which is counter active to what I was saying earlier.
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i dont know what to do
johnecon2001 replied to casedawg350's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
read this http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=3704 It's stickied right above your post -
300C Bagged on 24s, tear down and build log! Vid, P.6
johnecon2001 replied to Mark LaFountain's topic in Team SSA
Hack job -
x2 +1 you beat me too it. but on a serious note didnt your mom ever teach you that everything with bigger cooling/magnet units (idfk what they really are, the big donut looking things with wire rapped around it) on the right are always better then the exact same thing just mirror'd? geez, people nowadays! no common sense. Are you referring to the Toroids?
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2 cubes before port and woofer displacement is NOT enough for two woofers ported. With that space, you're pretty much limited to 2 10" woofers sealed or 1 12" ported.
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Wall socket'd my 12ssd thats going for recone
johnecon2001 replied to baggedbirds.com's topic in General Fi
Damn FiTards can't even pronounce their own company boner correctly. LOL -
i dont know what to do
johnecon2001 replied to casedawg350's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
So did you just turn the knobs to where you thought they should be? Or did you use a tutorial to set the gain properly? -
You could add the BP Power and Flatwind coil if you want to upgrade your amp later on down the road. You'll want DVC 1ohm coils if you buy two subs.
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Picking up the "lows" depends on your box. What exactly is your "price range"?
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Wall socket'd my 12ssd thats going for recone
johnecon2001 replied to baggedbirds.com's topic in General Fi
You'd need a clamp meter to accurately figure out how much power (in wattage) was actually going to the subs. That number you pulled off of your meter isn't the normal wattage you've grown accustomed to. Edit: ahahahah your wife sounded PISSED -
If you go with the SSD, add the Copper Coil and the BP Power options.
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Try looking on Madisound.com. They have a very large variety of all kinds of speakers. Make sure whatever you pick is compatible with the internal amplifier though.
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Bassman... finish asking your questions in a civilized manner. Or else.
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Diffraction, a serious issue in car audio?
johnecon2001 replied to buggsson's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
Its probably more apparent in Car audio than anywhere else, to be honest. Smaller space, you'll notice it more. Most general users won't know what it is/hear it though. -
Here you go. Directly from Fi. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7153
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Not true. You don't need to power the Q to it's thermal limit for it to sound good. 600w/sub will be more than enough. You'll want the DVC 1 ohm subs though..
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If you want even sound, then yes sealing the box would be the best option
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Look right above your post in the sticky section
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Get the Q, the BP power is free on it right now. If you don't like it, it'll be easy to sell and then you can buy the BL. Seriously... it'll be more than enough volume in the recommended box and it'll sound great. Just follow the recommended specs that Fi has laid out.
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Unless you can see the bare motor... no.