johnecon2001

Didn't you used to be a hardcore AQ guy? Welcome to the good guys if so

If the amps can't be strapped in the normal sense, try strapping them on the input side with this. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_20093_Hifonics_MLX-100.aspx

Pretty impossible to tell you what will get the loudest as your specific set of variables will differ from everyone else experiences. I would just follow the Incriminator guidelines.

That switch is a three position switch. Between HPF, LPF and Flat. I do wish it had a x10 switch as well though.

How much range does the built in crossover have?

The content that you send to them would be in stereo. You could do it, but it wouldn't sound ideal. And if you're looking to install actual midbass drivers, you're probably looking for ideal sound.

Since this is my thread, how about you leave and dont come back. Or better yet get banned for post dumping. Lol. He is on the tech team, and has been here for 5 years. Simply asking him to remove his post would have been more appropriate. Does being on the Tech team mean he doesnt have to follow same rules as everyone else. If so can i be on some teams so i can be a ass too. You already are an ass, no special privileges needed apparently. I'd cool it if I were you...

Congrats

If you know it's been asked a million times, you would also no it's never been answered. There's a reason that there is a recommended enclosure sticky in this forum..

Stick it in the fridge. See how long it takes for someone to pull a swig out of it.

You could try PM'ing him on one of the many sites he's on..

Time for some bags in the rear to handle the weight.

Which amp?

So why would you use a DMM instead knowing that each amp clips at different levels? Ignoring issues is a surefire way to blow things up.

You can't just eyeball the knobs and hope the amps are outputting the same power. Sorry, that will never work. You need an O Scope.

I'm not sure that the APR I'm talking about and the one your talking about are the same APR. Anyhow the Tacoma APR-X1 is bad ass. I was going to get a Tacoma 2 yrs ago but went GTI instead. Still want one though! Interesting, I automatically assumed they were one in the same. Sneaky companies.

Allan Phillips Racing knows what they're doing.. The Tacoma APR-X1 is Badddd asss.

How do you know how much power you're actually giving the sub? How did you set your gains?

Please, each does things the other doesn't. I have a G1, and an 8GB iTouch thing. I also have an 80GB ipod that lives in my glove compartment attached to my Alpine. And digital audio over USB will ALWAYS trump analog 3.5mm headphone jacks lol. No need to hate on other music players just because the Zune does something your ipod doesn't or vice versa. Besides, none of you smucks would turn down a free ipod/zune if one was offered to you.

bottom left hand of every page there's a little box with a skin selector in it. Try it out, there's about 4 different ones to choose from.

I dont mean to thread jack but how does he know which 8"s will do what he wants? Looks at as many reviews as he can? More googling on his part basically.

Why chance it? You didn't design the amp, I'm guessing that the people who DID, decided it needed a fan to keep it happy as long as possible.

That little one is pretty neat. I might pick one up for when I do mobile tunes on other peoples cars.

Says who?

its insurance. the fuse is there just in case you get into a front end collision and the power wire gets pinched, which would short your battery and have the potential to turn a minor accident into a major fire and/or total loss Then why don't they come fused from the factory? Check your fuse box. Should be a large ALT fuse.