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johnecon2001

SSA Regular
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Everything posted by johnecon2001

  1. johnecon2001

    need some help?

    Plenty.
  2. johnecon2001

    Best 10" SQ Setup for $300 or less?

    You're not allowed to say the E word in here. If you want SQ don't worry about xmax. Have you thought about an 8" sub? that might do a little better in such a small box.
  3. johnecon2001

    (ICON 15'S) 149.8db @ Prescott

    bwahahahaha
  4. johnecon2001

    (ICON 15'S) 149.8db @ Prescott

    or you could give me $760 so I can lift it 3" We'll have a build day soon I'm sure, or even just to hang out and talk about stuff. I know I need box help and I need to weld a dual battery tray, Tom needs to put his car back together and tune, and Evan... well lets just say he needs serious help. Mark needs carpet/paint on his box and he needs to bypass his D3 so he can watch movies on the road. So we could have a very productive and busy meet.
  5. johnecon2001

    (ICON 15'S) 149.8db @ Prescott

    we can always have a fabbing meet. Do my battery tray and box.
  6. johnecon2001

    Hyundai New feet

    lol @ hyundai wearing mazda shoes. Funny that the lug pattern is the same.
  7. johnecon2001

    2500 watts.....what to get

    lol, have you even considered the ramifications of your 2500 watts? Like how your going to power the amp?
  8. johnecon2001

    What can a 70amp alternator support?

    Well on my ephatch.com forum someone said this.. and he knows his stuff Yellow-top for deep cycling and car-off use Red-top- for big instantaneous current and fast, turning over large high compression engines, etc. Don't like to be deep cycled. It's a toss-up for car audio, if you like to sit and jam with the car off then the answer is un-disputably the yellow-top. For daily use I recommend the red-top due to it's uber low internal resistance, HUGE peak current capacity, etc. so i was thinking the red top would do fine for what i need. hardly. While the red top is exactly as he put it, its not ment to have the strain of a stereo system on it constantly draining the current. A yellow top is. A yellow top also can provide perfectly good current to turn over a V8 (so it should be fine turning over your little K20A3). A better option, like I mentioned before is the Kinetik.
  9. johnecon2001

    2500 watts.....what to get

    He has a Jeep... Not a chance he can fit 7 cubes.
  10. johnecon2001

    MA Audio sucks balls

    looks like you did hahahahahaha
  11. johnecon2001

    2 IDMAX 12's vs. 1 RE XXX 12

    I'd say IDMax > new XXX
  12. johnecon2001

    another newb!

    Horay for another n00b!
  13. johnecon2001

    What can a 70amp alternator support?

    Correct, they are AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries. Read their FAQ for more info on why most people consider them better.
  14. johnecon2001

    THE BIG 3

    because whatever hosting service that hosted them probably deleted them.
  15. johnecon2001

    (ICON 15'S) 149.8db @ Prescott

    Arizona killed your battery lol
  16. johnecon2001

    Here is a short tease...

    What? No pics? B&.
  17. johnecon2001

    General Questions

    Quoting for truth.
  18. johnecon2001

    2 IDMAX 12's vs. 1 RE XXX 12

    And which kind of box is this comparison going to be in?
  19. johnecon2001

    What can a 70amp alternator support?

    You should look into a deep cycle battery instead of a starting battery. A lot of users here swear by Kinetik batteries. http://www.kinetikaudio.com/hc1400.asp You also need to complete the Big 3 upgrade http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...p?showtopic=200 I would run at least 1/0awg to a distro in the rear of your car and then split it to 4awg to each amp. I cant shell out that much for a battery. As for the big 3, I honestly dont think I could do it correctly lol. I'd wait until you can shell out that much then. Or find a yellow top used. why the hesitation to do the Big 3? Its no different than hooking up an amp, and it sounds like you'll be doing that yourself. If you don't plan for this now, all you're doing is shooting yourself in the foot. The alt will fail eventually, and I can guarantee a new one is going to be more expensive than the battery.
  20. johnecon2001

    What can a 70amp alternator support?

    You should look into a deep cycle battery instead of a starting battery. A lot of users here swear by Kinetik batteries. http://www.kinetikaudio.com/hc1400.asp You also need to complete the Big 3 upgrade http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...p?showtopic=200 I would run at least 1/0awg to a distro in the rear of your car and then split it to 4awg to each amp.
  21. johnecon2001

    MA Audio sucks balls

    uh... running anything at 8v is real dangerous.. I wouldn't base the MA blows thing off of what people said. No 12v amp is built to run at 8v. Thats just silly to think its that amps fault for not being able to go that low.
  22. johnecon2001

    Single 15 LSQ setup...So many options

    Why would you push them? Set your gains for the 500 watts and then push them up a little till you start to hear some distortion. then back them off. Keep in mind though, giving a sub over the RMS can lower the longevity of the sub and possibly void your warranty.
  23. johnecon2001

    MA Audio sucks balls

    yeah... 8v baaaad. lol
  24. johnecon2001

    i want my offical welcome!

    LOL, does anyone see the similarities between the cat with a speaker on its head and our own Yeti with a speaker on its head?
  25. johnecon2001

    first system

    We laugh because you guys are fighting on the internets. NOT because either is right and someone got pwnt. Lighten up a little bud.
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