johnecon2001

The gain position has nothing to do with how much power comes out of the amplifier. You could have full gain and no output. It all depends on your input power.

Over current usually. But if you haven't checked with a DMM, how do you know its fine? You're getting 0v on that power line. Go up the line with the DMM until you have 12v. When you find a spot that has 12v, find out what item past that point is cutting off the voltage.

Just because the fuse looks fine doesn't mean it is fine. Use the DMM to check continuity on the fuse. If it doesn't pass the test, replace the fuse. This isn't rocket science guys.

If you want to play your system with the car off, you'll need an isolator or a solenoid to switch off the main battery an onto your secondary one. While we're on the topic of secondary batteries, a honda civic sized one will do nothing for you, both with the car on and especially with it off.

lol, anything over 2-way in a coaxial speaker is straight marketing. Are you going for an all Pioneer system? What's your budget? Also, what features do you need in your head unit?

Ascendant Audio (Fi's B&M line) has 6.5" mids.

You actually don't need the T/s specs. Just follow the recommended enclosure sizes in the Sticky

Please try to actually ask intelligent questions.

If you don't want to strap and you want to ensure the signal is in phase and output to all amplifiers equally... Get the MaxxLink http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?Source=googlebase&ProductID=20093

I think the first thing you should do is to build a new/different box for your Q and see if it doesn't suit your needs then. That way you only spend $40 instead of close to $400.

Oddly, I encounter this one as well.

The imprint is a noobs EQ. You'd be better off getting a PXA-H701 if better sound is truly what you're after.

You should get the aluminum coils if you plan on running any power above the recommended RMS.

That may have been the case for some people just because of the enormous enclosure requirements and the higher Fs of the woofer. While not great sounding, its a subwoofer, its not going to be playing all sorts of frequencies like your front stage would be. Most people wouldn't even notice.

Generally looking at a cluster of 3 frequencies at a time may be helpful, but you don't need to visualize the entire band to make it look smoother.. you're trying to make it sound smooth. Who cares how it looks.

? ok...

Ahh so you had the idiot button pushed. That would explain the noise.

Find an older ARC Audio XXK or CXL series amp. 270 x 2 @ 4 ohms, 525 x 2 @ 2 ohms

With 5 Cubes sealed, a single 18" XCON would beat out all of the woofers (singularly) listed and absolutely LOVE the power you have.

While you probably could seal the Nightshade.. that's not what they were built for. What are you looking for out of your new system?

Do you have the room for 4 18's?

They can do that for sure. I'm unsure of cost though.

I'm gonna go with llama hauler.

Yes and Yes.