johnecon2001

We're all biased here. Actually, no we're not. Sundown > Kicker. Its just a better amp.

You're misunderstanding Mono amplifiers. The two terminals are NOT bridgeable. They're essentially the same terminal, internally paralleled. So if you want a final 1 ohm load, you need to get the Dual 2 sub. You then have two options on wiring. You can wire each voice coil to a terminal, or you can wire the VC's together in parallel and run them to one terminal.

You can't adapt RCA's to HDMI

If its the same as a Toyota Camry you should be able to have Excessive Amperage make you one. And if it isn't the same, I'm sure Nate will be able to make you something custom.

WelcomE, you live in a cool state

Why Redtops? Its my understanding that they're more of a starting battery than a Deep Cycle. I thought that's what the Yellow tops where for.

i've used them too. you will have poor output at idle but if you never crank your system while not moving you should be fine. Nate can take care of that with a smaller pulley. And its never poor output, its the same if not more than your stock alt.

Go out on a limb and try the Arsenal. Very few people have them at this point (since they're so new). So you could be one of the first people to review them

double post. See below.

Sundown Please.

No doubt, I have bins of these in all sizes because they're so cheap and effective.

That's wholesale pricing folks. Grab em up.

i think it sould depend on the vechile because some have all aluminon uni bodys etc but the one thing that i did hear is that with a negtive ground run you have a better chance of getting a ground loop. That's not really true as far as the mythical ground loop goes. It might happen if you had bad connections. But length of wire will have nothing to do with it. It does honestly depend on the body of the car though if you should run seperate grounds or not. Take a DMM and attach one lead to the positive of the battery and then attach one lead to your prospective ground point. Measure in Ohms. It should read as close to 0 ohms as possible. After you measure the chassis resistance run a piece of wire the length of the vehicle and then measure resistance off of it. Which ever is closest to 0 ohms is the grounding method you should use.

That amp might be a little weak for the Havoc. You could probably sell it no problem, or trade it for something that will do what the Havoc wants at 1 ohm. Or even 4 ohms.

saweeeet. Sundowns are pimp

You might want to bow out on the backside more to compensate for the speaker on the front.

That would be good. It'd be just like running to the stock battery. Make sure to fuse on both ends though since the wire is so long.

I swear to christ. You just will never learn.

Minimum of 2 runs per batt. Hopefully Jacob will pipe up here and give you Current draw on the 3000D's. I know its a ton.

You're not looking for Loud Sound Quality with 6x9's. You're looking for SPL. You need to get a better front stage than some coaxials for LSQ.

I'm not sure "Great" is an adjective I would use to describe Lanzar products post 1996. The VHC line is superior to the Opti line, and older stuff is FAR superior to anything made today. And yes, the "Vibe" line is crap. You should do some research on current Lanzar's. Sure the ratings on the Heritage, MAX, and Vibrant are a little inflated, but the Vibe puts out rated power, and the Opti is a SOLID line. It's because of the other crappy lines that Lanzar sells that cause people to be confused with how good some of the amps are. 80's and 90's Lanzar's were made by Zed, early 90's they dropped Zed. But the Opti's continued with the quality boards. And before you try to come back with an argument, the Opti2000D puts out 1900wrms @ .5 ohms 14.4v. They also handle voltages from 12v through 16v. Stock. No mods. Doesn't sound like a bad amp to me.

Oh god yes. At least two runs for each amp.

what is your eventual goal with this system?

Considering RMS is 1kW, 1.5kW should be sufficient to get them moving.

The Opti's are all great amps, the Vibes just barely put out rated power.