johnecon2001

More pics of girl in avatar. or B&.

Another great point to consider. I don't know what electrical upgrades you've done, but if you want to keep the system under a certain cost, using amps that draw less current would be a wise choice.

Plexiglass is quite brittle, you need lexan. As far as the fuses go... I can't believe you admitted to having an 8awg ground. Power wire and ground wire MUST be the same size for adequate current flow. Find out how much the amp pulls in amperage. If its higher than 80a, then there's your problem. The amp is overdrawing the fuse.

I can comment all day long on your electrical needs. If you plan on running 3000w later in life the minimum gauge wire you need to run is 1/0awg. Since you want to run 2 Sundown SAZ-1500D's I add more of the same gauge when you buy the second amp (read 2-3 runs total). For your first simple setup with just one amp, you should look at the Big 3 upgrade and a slightly bigger/better battery under the hood to replace the stocker. Nothing crazy, just something with a little more reserve and a higher capacity.

I like Eclipse stuff a lot, and most of the time it all sounds really good. But you can't really beat Jacob's customer service and his Forum here.

The item you have is a sonic processor. Not a Crossover.

Try disconnecting everything except the power wire, remote and ground wire and see what happens.

He'll need both actually. At least a 200A alternator and perhaps a battery about the size of the Kinetik HC1800.

ok kool, I wasn't sure if you had other plans than what the crossover was actually for.

What speakers are you using? You can't just pick a random crossover and mate it with a similarly random speaker and expect it to work good.

I'm in Phoenix as well. Hopefully we'll have another SSA meet planned up by the time you get here.

It's not even worth it dude.

http://www.stereointegrity.com/ Over all I like the graphical change, but I think it needs to retain the somewhat dark and serious feel it had before. Your products are serious business.

You probably had the gain set to high and you clipped the shit out of it. Sending a square wave signal to a sub is a surefire way to fry it.

He's working on that now. 225a alternator and 4 yellow tops. We talked in another thread and he's adding more runs of 1/0awg ATM.

The max link is just a signal splitter. It doesn't "strap" the amps like you would expect. If the 2500 says it's stable at 1ohm and you have enough electrical upgrades, I don't really forsee a problem with running it at 1 ohm daily. If its not 1 ohm stable.... I would say if you have to post these questions on whether or not you'll be ok, You're not going to be ok.

depends on the "3000w amp".

ummmm think about that one.

I don't think that the 2500's are strappable. If they aren't, you can put one coil on each amp. 1 ohm each. If they are strappable, each 2500 will see .25 ohms if you wire in parallel (I doubt they'll run that low). or you can use a series parallel scheme to get .5 ohms to each amp.

We oughta ban you for suggesting something like that. Eric, have you talked to Nate at EA about a smaller pulley to increase idle voltage yet? Although on another note what exactly are you trying to power? You should definitely conside adding to the Big 3 (it looks like you may have done it already in that picture though). Another idea would be to add more runs from the ALT directly to your rear batteries instead of going through your front one first. 3 batteries in the rear? 3 runs of 0awg from the alt. Depending on what you're trying to power, I would prematurely go out on a limb and just say that your wire is what's holding you back.

How is 13.4-13.6v bad on a 12v system? What does your voltage drop to when you have the system going?

Jim has a tube up his butt. You just can't reason with those people.

Obviously you're all fogetting about weighting the dB measuring. With A weighting you get a roll off at about 100hz on a 37dB slope. With C weighting you measure the full 20Hz-20kHz. B weighting rolls at around 50Hz and isn't used as often as C or A. Don't get me started about U weighting (ultrasonic). In essence what I'm trying to say is 150dB at 50Hz is NOT the same as a front stage system playing at 150dB. Bass tones don't effect you the same as 200Hz+ tones do.

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That's pretty silly. No one forced each owner to buy the ICON. No one gave them money to write a review. They're not earning any "brownie" points with the manufacturer for saying nice things about the sub. The ICON was intended as a SQ woofer. Unintentionally it just so happens to get pretty loud and still retain a great deal of SQ while in a larger ported box.