johnecon2001

K, you got the budget question right. Now answer the other half. What final ohm load would you like to run the SSD's at?

Budget? What ohm load would you like to run the SSD's at?

Not necessarily. Like I said previously, if he has a good enough processor to split up the frequencies and EQ the stuff the crossover misses, he should be fine. Otherwise, it'll probably sound like ass.

Why are you still going active in the rear? Passive in the rear = easier

That's what he said. Hopefully the money that they charged him also paid for a kick butt processor. He's gonna need some serious crossover and EQ'ing on those two 12's.

It makes me sad that you haven't heard a real car stereo in 23 years of you being in it.

Interesting. Maybe they learned to focus all the sonic energy inside the car with the mic instead of wasting it on the outside.

Randomly? Sounds like a loose connection somewhere.

"enough" power for what?

Mono Midbass? Midbass is still directional. Subbass is not. You need to put your midbass drivers in a location that can properly hit your ears. That is not the place.

What does what be? Did I miss the memo?

Why do you feel the need to run the 20.1 to its "full" potential? (which, btw is not 1800w - its significantly more than that). Coming from the Mag in a sealed box.. have you ever tried it ported? It might give you what you want.

Basically, what I'm saying.... Use one tweeter. I doubt the deck you have has the necessary time alignment functions to make that setup "really" sound good.

awww I hate working on sundays.

That's entirely dependant upon too many things. What type of box? Ported? What frequency is the port? What is the resonant frequency of the car? I could go on for days about this. Pick one or the other, it'll be a 50/50 chance either way.

I'd just like to say: "I told you so".

Something to consider before you start sweating over where to put the tweeters is Time Alignment and Delay. If you have a good Head unit, place the tweeters anywhere you want, and then measure the delay time to the mid. Use that time to back up the tweeter signal to the mid and you'll be in better shape than if the drivers were right next to each other.

That tweeter on the A piller needs to go.

The Sundown SAZ-1500D from the SSA shop would fit you nicely. If you email them, they can give you a better price.

As far as speaker setup goes, I would keep the active 3-ways in the front since you seem pretty set on that. For the Passenger doors and the rear speakers, just do some Coaxial speakers. I'd connect the rear four together and set it up so you can turn them off or down if you're the only one in the car.

on another note, cheap tens that sound good but are probably not the best in the SPL department... Try the Mach5 MAW-10.

Why bother bumping your budget up? TBH $50 isn't going to effect the drivers whatsoever. Why does it have to be 2 10's? Like M5 said, a single 12 or even a 15 is well within your $250 price range.

Either the Q or the SSD would be fine with the power you'll have. If you're looking to save space, go with the Q in a sealed box.

Titebond III FTMFW!!