johnecon2001

Someone correct my if I'm wrong, but having a high roll surround is going to change how that sub moves drastically. As in the spiders will work harder.

Only thing that you get from having the port at one end allows you to tune lower because you can increase the port length.

For the power you're talking about running eventually, you'll definitely want something better than the Red Tops. Build looks interesting so far, I like how you're attempting to mix SQ and SPL. I was going to say something about time alignment, but with all the drivers that close together, you might not need it. Keep us updated!

There's a BEST out there? Holy crayup, when did that happen? Try the Mach5Audio SPL-12

Lets go back to basic car audio 101 on this. The fuse isn't ment to protect the amp. The Fuse is ment to protect the wire. So now you have two options, Fuse to the maximum amperage the wire can handle, or fuse just below that point. 1/0awg can take 400-350a depending on length. 4awg can take 100-150a depending on length. I fuse to the maximum of the wiring usually. In your case, I'd fuse the 1/0 line at 250-300. For the 4awg line, I'd fuse at 100-150.

I'll say it... Just because someone may have a degree in Electrical Engineering doesn't mean they know squat about designing speakers. I suggest you leave this forum and never come back. Your attitude is not welcome here, and your refusal to abide by the rules.

And that's the way to make your install not ghetto.

Do you realize how many variables you still left out? Not a chance in hell there is an answer to your question.

He means that when the subs only have to play a small portion of the frequency range, they're not what you should be focusing your attention on. You're front speakers play over 85% of the frequencies heard. That is what you should be asking about in an SQ install.

Is that an Eclipse?

nice. When I first saw how thick that baffle was, I nearly crapped myself.

350a for the under the hood blocks. You really have the wrong kind of block for in the back though. Mini ANL or KF fuses only go up to 150a. 150a is a huge bottleneck on 1/0awg wire.

Only thing weird that I saw was power to the battery bank. You used 10 (?) runs of 1/0awg to the first set of five batteries but then only used one 1/0awg jumper to get to the next two sets. You've got all that bandwidth so to speak, getting power to the bank but then you have a huge bottleneck jumping from row to row.

How many amp channels total will you need? Arc Audio seems right in your price range. DLS as well, but they'll be towards the upper half of that $800 peak.

yes.

Depends on your budget. How much are you willing to spend?

Seriously? Don't bump an old thread just to say something like that.

Is it your car? Your ears? Doesn't mean it still isn't ridiculous.

If you're truly wanting an SQ install, there are others that you should look into for amping. If you're on a budget however and want to run an active front stage, you can't beat the price/performance of the SAX-100.4.

I like that a lot. Looks great on those amps. What's up with the red duct tape on the power line though

Which makes this build even more ridiculous.

Nice amps, I'm glad to see that crazy looking sub sounds good too. lol

heh, you just compared a high end Eclipse to an Alpine. I like Alpine. A lot. But I'll take that Eclipse anyday.

Interesting. For that much power, it might be time to stop thinking conventional and start thinking either Dual alts, or a complete 16v/17v system.. since that is where the majority of the power lays with the AB stuff. You'll also need to look into an extensive battery bank whether you go with a 14.4 system or a higher voltage system. Read: 3 to 4 extra batteries like the D3100. I'm not sure exactly what you're planning on doing with this system, but something tells me if you have to ask these types of questions, then you're not a hard core competitor.

You pretty much just answered your own question there chief. Set the gains properly and the problem will most likely go away.