johnecon2001

Just turn the gain down, you don't have to give the sub the full 1000w.

The BL has the power handling advantage over the SSD's. But the SSD's have a cone area advantage. It's all going to come down to box essentially. A bigger sub/larger enclosure has nothing to do with electrical demand.

That would be a very nice setup, although, I don't think you're looking for the type of sound that the RL-s is going to give you. It sounds like you just want a street beater. I could be wrong though, so why don't you tell us what you're looking for exactly and what systems you've had/heard in the past and what you've liked.

What's your budget like chief?

http://www.lightav.com/car/amps/poweramps.html Also keep in mind that just because an amp is on that list, doesn't mean it does rated power.

I need amps and speaker model numbers to answer this. Theoretically it would work though. You are describing it a little weird.

Do you have a budget? How many watts are you looking for?

:gayfight2:

Noise-Killers is FatMat.

Why are the SPL amps garbage? You show me a 3000w amp that actually does that power RMS for under $400 new. 1) SPL isn't CEA-2006 compliant. Meaning, they either rate their amps off of an inflated voltage scale or they just lie. 2) Just looking at them, you know they're cheap inefficient amps. 3) How many other people do you see running them?

1) When you have a speaker playing a subsonic frequency.. THD doesn't matter because you won't hear it. 2) SPL amps are garbage, the SSD's deserve something better 3) The RMS on the SSD is 800w. Going off of you "think" it can handle more than 1200w is a silly assumption. You'll end up voiding the warranty if you continue.

We like emo kids here.. ... wait.. did I just say that?

You're using the amp for subs, don't even worry about the THD percent. What's your budget like? Those subs don't deserve either of those amps.

If you're running wire from the front to the back, you may as well run a negative along with the positive.

I don't know the name of AT&T's server, but based upon other newsgroups servers I've used.. try "news.att.com"

W7's with only 250w? You sir, don't deserve to be in car audio. As far as the rest of your post goes.. I have no idea what you're asking, mainly because you offered no model numbers and you use no punctuation.

New dust caps? Does the emblem weigh much? I would think that might change the T/s parameters of the sub a little.

Those look like "walmart grade", not competition grade.

I believe MAW-15's are rated at 500wrms each.

ditto Buy some reducers? How so? if 8 gauge is completly unecessary, wouldnt owning a fully loaded fi btl 12 be completly unecessary? Going overkill on your wires will never hurt your stereo, but running with tiny 16-12 gauge will. It will raise resistance, and not allow every drip of power to get to your speakers. Maybe I will gain a few DB's if I rewire my sub with 16 gauge speaker wire? Underkill ftw? It might matter in higher wattage systems (maybe like yours), but in this case, I doubt the OP is going over 2kW (saying "roughly 2600w" is probably not 2600w) . And for that little power, 12 awg is right in the sweet spot. Anything more is unnecessary.

1200w isn't a whole lot.. but the 15" MAW's do have the cone area advantage over the BL.

It sounds louder after your car heats up because the air is less dense.

Is that a regular Lead/Acid battery? You might want to make sure that it can breath in that box.. they don't do to well in a sealed environment.

Oh gee.. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/shop/in...p;productId=152

if it changes.. it sounds like something went up the pole vent and is in the coil gap. Like a piece of a foam peanut. Maybe find yourself some compressed air and blow it out real good while gently moving the cone around.