johnecon2001

Yaaaayyyy! Another Arizona local. Can we molester you into coming to out meet? (whenever that may be)

The Dado blade is a blade that is slanted and essentially "wobbles" in the saw. Yes its a table saw. It gives you the ability to cut a wider track in the wood without having to have a blade that is 1" to 1 1/2" thick.

Shouldn't be much, especially if you bring them the parts to paint rather than the car. I doubt you'll need much blending on that color.

Just looking at the internal guts you can tell the power is there.

Responded to your other thread. You don't need that little cap with the active crossover you're running. You'll just be wasting power from the amp on them.

Incorrect, You can't add slopes together. They will overlay though if you have two crossovers at the same point, and the one with a greater slope will basically take precedents over the shallower one.

Lol, 6 is probably ok. The recommended box ported max per SSD is 2.5cuft iirc. But if you shoot for 6cuft before port and woofer displacement, I think that should sound nice.

whats a IA 20.1? what would happen if i do run the two amp set-up? Incriminator Audio 20.1 is a monoblock amplifier. As far as what would happen.. refer to the top part of Denim's post.

I remember seeing this build, it had a baffle that was ginourmous

Well I can't answer the cap crossover point question, but I can help with the frequencies you should cross at and what slopes are. I'll start with slopes. The easiest way to understand it is to think of it in grades of steepness like on a highway. You see signs for 7% grade 5% grade and so on. The higher the percent the steeper the grade. Same thing goes for Crossover slopes. The larger the number the steeper the slope. With a steeper slope, the crossover point will encompass less frequencies when it rolls off. Say you cross the tweets at 3k and the mids at 3k using a 24dB slope. The mids will still play up to about 4-5k. They'll play that high at a decreasing rate as the slope goes down, but they'll still play up to it. With a shallower 6dB, they'll play even higher. Vice versa for the tweets. Here is an image that represents that. Look at the red lines and the slope on the front end of one and the slope on the back of the other: You can mess with the slopes to properly blend the sound coming from the speakers. Most speakers have a natural frequency roll of built into them (just the way the thing works). The trick is to find that natural roll off and then find the slope and crossover point that makes the easiest and most natural transition to the tweeter as possible. So you have your approximate roll off point for the tweeter, which is a good place to start. Now find one for the mid. Try a few different ones, make them all decently close to the 3k mark. If it just isn't blending and the tweeter is playing too much, move the point on the tweet up.

That sounds great! Not a whole lotta people do 10's anymore. I personally like smaller setups that get loud.

That's actually a little too small for 3 SSD's and a port. Go for 5.5cuft after port and woofer displacement.

If loud is your goal, go for the most cone area possible. Also remember to tune your box higher than normal, 35hz-38hz would be a nice number for something obnoxiously loud.

I'll also beg the question, what do you define as "what would be better/perform better"? Are you looking for reliability? Output? Sound Quality? Efficiency? Performing better is a broad category with many facets. You'll need to be more specific.

You'll wire it in Parallel. both positives to the positive on the amp and both negatives to the negative on the amp.

I was running extreme last year and 4ga speaker wire yeilded a 0.4db gain over 8ga. I tried 2ga but nothing. But this will also depend on your application. That doesn't even apply here! You were probably running considerably more power to your woofers than the OP is.

For what? Great box... what is it for??? You have no equipment list.. der.

Blowing air around in an enclosed space isn't going to do anything for you. You need a fresh supply to keep the air cool. Otherwise, the air will just be heated by the amps, exhausted and then blown back on them. Think about a port of PVC or flex tube to the front of the car that can hold a fan in each end to get the new air to the back.

Niceeeeeee

probably the SR.

why would the hifonics barely do 1000 watts? Because it's a Hifonics. They're not known for their rated power, they're known for being cheap.

Can you leave it open for a few more days? If we cross post on ROE that might bring in a few more souls.

holy crap its dave edwards

Sounds like it could be a bad ground. It also sounds like you didn't set your gain correctly and you just winged it.

You can't do what you want to do with toggle switches on the remote wire. They'd have to be on the RCA's to kill signal to the amp. Or just get an EQ like Benz suggested.