johnecon2001

Yellow is a Deepcycle (what you want for car audio), Red is a Sealed starting battery.

I highly doubt you have any SQ with your L7's.

Yup, thats the one you want!

Try the DriveRack 260 instead of the PA. Pass on the BBE, they get a little hissy sometimes. And of course.. don't do the Behringer if at all possible. Try the Ashly Protea 3.24CL (3x6 digital), for analog the XR stuff is nice, just a little limited on what you can do with them. Rane also has some nice older analog gear in the AC-23, AC-22 and the AC-22B. And then the cream of the crop is something from BSS. Like an OmniDrive.

Deaden and clay the doors? Get rid of the passive crossover and amp actively.

Sundown is not SUONO. Sundown amps accept 18v on the input.

You can also get gauge reducers to turn 1/0awg into 4awg width.

You could take into account the negligible difference in displacement. That's about it though.

LOL, I never would have guessed that.

I've had direct experience with them. They don't do rated power and the transistors and capacitors in them have a nasty habit of burning up and sending square waves to your speakers. We had 35 of them (3000's, 2000's, 1200's, 600's) in an installation that ultimately led us to replace the 16 blown HF drivers in our 16 Box EAW KF761 Line array. We've moved on to better things.

Does anyone else know what the hell he's trying to say??

Each? Maybe 1500 with the Flatwind and the Cooling.

maybe not in terms of pure sq, more like will it sound ok and not run into some weird cancellation that would make listening suck No, in terms of any SQ. Don't use the acronym if you don't know what it means. There's SQ and Not SQ. No such thing as "pure sq". It will suck for SQ having two tweeters playing the same thing. But if you're into sucking..

I would skip the Crown CTs line if I were you..

This is how not to make a first post on a forum. Don't be ghetto. Do it right.

You'd have to get a fully loaded BTL to stand up to that amp without damaging it. I would also go with a Dual 1 ohm woofer and wire it to 2 ohms so you only send 3000w to the thing.

Join me in the chat room if you have further questions. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/chat/flashchat.php Nevermind its broken.

You could, but it would provide you with less than optimal results. And the fact that you're even thinking about putting an extra battery in means you probably don't have a small system. I know you have 2 15" ICONs. What did you wire your car with already? Edit: yeah that fuse block will work fine. Edit2: you don't need to fuse the 1/0awg coming off the second battery into the distro. Stop editing your post damnit.

Hmm, I was with you until you said 9pm and light. My workout ends at 6, and I usually get something high in protein. Or I grill a steak and have a leafy salad.

Who would have thought searching would have yielded correct answers! OMG!

Look into some Kef Audio stuff on ebay or at a dealer. Preferably get them the PSW2500. You'll be happy with the results. I am (I have two)

4 awg can only handle 150a max. So fusing with a 300a fuse isn't going to work for you. Also, stay away from AGU fuse holders for this application. They only go up to 80a. You'll need Mini KF/ANL or ANL. Grounding all to the same spot is the CORRECT way to ground. Putting amps and processors to different spots is where you run into problems. Run two runs of 1/0awg from the front battery. One for the positive terminal (fuse it on both ends) and one for the negative. Then run the unfused distro off of the rear battery negative and connect the amp grounds to that. Buy a fused distro that can handle 150a fuses for the Positive connections off of the positive terminal.

You guys are really starting to complicate things. Front Battery: Make sure you do the big 3 with 1/0awg here. Run one run of 1/0awg to the back batter from the front positive terminal to the rear positive terminal. Fuse at both positive terminals. Rear Battery: Run one line of 1/0awg from positive terminal to FUSED distribution block. Distribute and fuse as necessary from here to amps. Run one line of 1/0awg from NEGATIVE terminal to UN-Fused distribution block. Run your amp ground back to here. ^ Un-Ghetto, perfect world way of doing things. You can also add a run of 1/0awg from the front battery negative to the rear battery negative for lower overall ground line resistance.

No, that's not really the plan. You need to swap his amp into your system. You're not just checking to see if the sub is bad, you're checking to see if your wiring is bad as well.

Forced reading for the first 10 posts I think