johnecon2001

I really doubt you know what's going to be better for the JL motor than JL does. After all, who spent millions on R&D? You or JL? Just saying, you're pretty much ruining resale value on it as well. It's an SQ subwoofer, good at sounding good. It's not some fart machine that you cobble together using bastard parts to hit 150+dB where it doesn't matter if it sounds good or not.

100-150A would be fine for 4awg.

If that's true then that's just plain retarded. It says Satalite ready, not Sirius ready. I would think everything remotely new would be able to have either or both. You do realize its the same programming.. right?

It's not XM compatible. Sirius only. http://www.eclipse-web.com/us/cd/cd5030acce.html

Everything I've ever heard is you either send it into JL, or you have a fancy paperweight. Good luck on your quest though.

You can't see clipping with a DMM.

Since when??

Ehh, can't really see, but I bet you get air trapped to the side of the port like on your old Dual 15" ICON box.

Seal the woofer. Turn the SSF up. Only two options other than "don't play those songs".

There's not a specific song for any specific woofer. There will be some songs that do better with some people's setups and some that do better with others. Your best bet would be to grab a few ideas from the Show off threads and try them out in your application.

Feel free to compile the specs, I'll merge them into the existing thread.

T/s parameters have never been something that IA has posted. Just box suggestions. IA Recommended Enclosure Sizing - SSA Car Audio Forum

Get whichever you can afford. They're almost all quality batteries. I personally prefer XS Power.

Lotta good submissions!

Lot of misinformation in this thread. All the points in the Big 3 are important. Without doing one of them you may as well do none of them. Grounding points are just as important if not more important than the positive power points. Use the 2/0awg wire on the ground point under the hood. It doesn't matter where you attache it as long as its a good solid clean spot attached to a non essential bolt of the engine. The other side should be on clean sanded metal of the chassis. Even without a High Output alternator, the positive leg is still important. *Remember* you're not replacing cable, you're adding to the stock cable. Use your 1/0awg wire here. Post here with any other questions.

Options would always help the resale value if you ever decide to sell it and try something new.

There are quite a few cars that come without projectors and HID lamps. All depends on where the hot point of the lamp is located inside of your housing.

Anything that resonates isn't acoustically dead.

You'll need more than a couple batteries for that amp. A large alternator wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Lucky you. For me they are in the first 2 posts of every page. Firefox + Adblock+ should take care of that for you. I didn't even know what you were talking about until I disabled it in my browser and then reloaded the page. (sorry mark lol)

I like my shiny new badge

Nice! This is huge.

10,000w unclipped.