johnecon2001

The port on a cubed box would be like... .3^3ft depending on tuning. Or you could use an Aero port.

Its a sealed box. You'd maybe have a point with a ported one. But not with sealed.

How do you know its not already moving like it was supposed too? A bigger box won't solve your excursion problem. If you want more low end, try putting it in a sealed box. How do you have it wired to the amp?

You'll want to wire like this For a 2 ohm final load. Unless you have the funds and the electrical system to get a .5 ohm stable amplifier. Look for a used Kicker ZX2500.1 (stable @ 2 ohms) and set your gains with an O-scope, and you'll be fine.

Just PM me or someone else next time. It's not a big deal, takes under 5 min.

I was thinking specifically G35/37 and the 350Z. Also BMW 3 series molds to Dash as well.

Its a different kind of cold that we're talking about here. Freezing the motors is far different from inside temperature of the car. It also probably isn't audibly louder to the human ear, but to expensive SPL metering equipment.. you'll see it.

That look better?

Probably shoot a little higher than that if you want it to be loud. See where 33-35hz puts you.

Probably the higher end models with integrated radios would be smart, but harder to make. Stuff like Nissan where they now mold the radio into the dash, bleck.

Looks loud, what other upgrades did you do?

Sounds more like an installation problem than a speaker problem.

IIRC the 40.1 LOVES .5 ohms. He's gonna definitely need a new alternator to support 3 of them though.

Could buy a new amp.

I've still got the Acoustic Visions XJ15 sitting in my closet. It likes giant ported boxes tuned low and stuffed with polyfill. We can port the bad box to 25hz () an get 7.4 cubes out of it.. plus whatever 6.5lb's of polyfill does. This still might work.

As it stands now its just a 9^3ft sealed box. So we might still be able to use it.

Mark and I fucked up big time on a box tonight. Forgot to calculate port area into total internal volume. We needed an 8.5 cube internal box.. ended up with like 4.5 after the port and the woofers. SHIT.

You want your power at 2 or .5 ohms. Since .5 is a little harder on your electrical system, lets go for 2 ohms. (Wire like this) The Kicker ZX2500.1 would do nice.

A sealed or properly clayed Infinite Baffle enclosure will increase midbass response significantly. As far as crossover points go, You'll need to see if you can find what Focal recommends for them. Start there and work your way up or down until the sound starts to blend. typically you get your Midbass gain set first with the crossover, then the midrange blended to that and finally the tweeter. For Time alignment, you'll need a Time alignment tool (not sure if the 360 has one built in) you'll play a response out of the midbass, then the midrange and then the tweet, you'll then add delay to the midrange and the tweet to draw them back to the midbass. FINALLY, after all that, you'll delay the front comps back even further (as a whole) to the subs. Don't delay the subs, delay everything else to the subs. You'll set the listening mic at the primary listening position. It's a lot easier than it sounds.

hahaha, well I have a feeling I might have to go to the 220 tonight.. we'll see. YES.

Nick has been online a lot lately, I'm sure he'll be able to get you squared away.

You're short on space.. Smaller is better.

If you have batteries in the back, it wouldn't hurt to run a line of 1/0awg to each battery from the alt.

SQ in a ported box is decently hard to attain with most woofers. Some do it quite well (SI Mag, SSA ICON) and some don't do so well. For great low end extension and flat response, you're on the right track with the Sealed sub option.

JL makes some pimp RCA's.