johnecon2001

That RE calculator is way off, don't use it.

If it ever went over 12v, yep. blinking to music LED

If that is true and knowing everything changes your resonate freq. I should deaden everything first build a mock-up box or throw something in there to take up the 16-18 cubes for my box and then try to find it? Someone who thinks ahead! Amazing! Yes, deaden and throw in the filling to take up that room as that will definitely change the frequency your vehicle peaks at.

Looks detailed enough to me. And it's in the right section. When they refer to install, your gain setting and enclosure are lumped into that. So if you have clean power, with no clipping and your box is within the Fi recommended specifications... the sub should have no problem handling the extra wattage.

If you've verified that the ground is solid and you are in fact getting a solid 12v minimum to the amplifiers, try disconnecting the speaker wires and the RCA's and see if that effects whether or not the amp starts up normally.

Power Max Electronics is on the dealer list that Sundown has on their website. Sundown Audio - Internet Dealers However, since you are on SSA, might as well get it from this store. SSA Store - Sundown Audio SAE-1200D Amplifier 1500+ watts Customer service will be phenomenal.

Because it fluctuates every second. Frequency, heat, and box size all make it change to where you can't calculate it on an ongoing basis.

Do you make subwoofers and test them? That's directly from the SSA XCON page.

Seal it. 5^3ft

You should attempt to forward the ports that XBL uses to connect to the internet. The links below should get you started. Network ports used by Xbox LIVE PortForward.com - Port Forwarding Guides Listed by Manufacturer and Model

3kW? I'd run a D6500 in the rear to be safe. Throw the Yellow top up front.

Just to clear up a misnomer in the original post... Size of woofer has nothing to do with what notes it is capable of hitting. Just fyi.

Sounds more like an automotive issue rather than an electrical issue dude. Obviously the alternator isn't charging the batteries. As long as you simply added the big 3 wiring to the existing wiring, you should still have perfect contact. If that bottom pulley isn't turning with the belt on it, it is causing friction. The belt will break eventually. It's probably not turning fast enough to generate power through the alternator and certainly not fast enough to pump P/S fluid to your rack. That'll lead to a bad rack eventually.

NIce! Now go wall socket the RD's

You're basically talking about a 6th order bandpass. Only one person caught that. The Subwoofer DIY Page - 6th Order Bandpass Systems It wouldn't sound like shit if built/designed properly. If you're looking for a wider range of frequencies though, and no one will design/build a 6th order for you... build a sealed box. You'll lose output, but all the frequencies without the boost around tuning will be there.

Also there seem to be some duplicates in the arsenal.

You just disagreed with everyone in the thread. You're not correct bud.

Only one burned? Did you possibly wire each one differently than the other? If one was receiving more power that would cause it to burn faster than the other.

Someone better get a video of the run

I've seen that on other subs as well. Not a big deal, just poke a hole as you did.

Small Town Audiophile... if you still haven't gotten the answer you're looking for....

Dearest stealth, You've worn out your welcome and inflicted my wrath. You may not talk to our users, our moderators or our administrators or owners the way you have done in your very, very short stay here. In other words....

Moved to IA forum, edited useless title to something more... smart.

While they're both great subs, no one will have an answer to your question because of all of the variables involved. If you really want to know, you'll need to purchase both setups, install them each and have them metered. Then you'll know which is louder.