johnecon2001

Lead/acid batteries vent gas. They spill if tipped over and they corrode far easier than AGM/sealed batteries.

Connect your speaker wires one to each positive terminal on the Behringer. Dip switches 3, 6, 7 and 8 need to be in the ON position. Switches 1, 4, 5 and 10 need to be off. Keep gain knob #2 at zero. Use gain knob #1 only. Also... at 4 ohms.. you're WAY over powering that sub. It was NOT ment to handle the 2000~ watts you're giving it. You probably are bottoming it out.

I don't know if this helps at all.. but here's the link to the manual. http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/CQDVR909U.PDF Skimming over it, it looks like you need to turn on a few settings to get DVD-A to work.

pinned

exactly. i have a 16 cube box in there that i hate, and theres to much port area. i hate driving with the steering wheel in my lap. i want 4 1500 watt 12s, i dont know what im going to go with. any ideas? -Fi BL's with Flatwind and Cooling options -DC Sound Lab Lvl4 -SSA ICON's (you'll need to give them a hair less than 1500w) -Ascendant Audio Havoc -Incriminator Audio Death Penalty Etc etc. ALSO... you could go with two Mach5 SPL-12's or get in on the Mach5 SPL-15 Pre-order that Mark is graciously doing.

Are you sure it even plays DVD-A? I know some DVD players won't. Check the manual to confirm whether its a listed playable format or not.

We just had a member purchase the Vmax to replace his Adire Audio Shiva. He had thought the Shiva was bad, but that wasn't the case. Anyway, in a head to head, he didn't like the V-Max at all. Check this post out, and then read through that thread if you get a chance, as it details the V-max pretty good.

All of the above answers are what I would do. I was in the same boat as Mark when the sub was in series and still out of phase.

Good review, hopefully this will generate more interest in a great sub and company.

I think you're on the right track with the Arsenal. It'd be a good match for your amp, both power and ohm load wise. I would put it in a sealed box at first and see if it suits your listening preferences, if it's a little too quiet, then port it nice and low (around 29hz).

Can you check the ohm load that the amp is seeing with a DMM? Just because the amp isn't getting warm, doesn't mean that the load is optimal.

well, no I didn't mean Jacob... the other guy that asked about the threesixty. Jacob needs the flexibility of the .2

The white stuff? Acrylic silicon? That's what I use. It works great. Just make sure to spread the bead with your finger to seal all possible holes.

That sounds like a plan. Good options. You should still baby the gain on the amp though.

The .2 would be a bit overkill for a passive 2-way system. Try the .1 instead.

Probably a loose connection like you suspected. You should check those first to rule out all the easy stuff.

You don't need to stop your quest for the truth, you just need to stop being a dick about it.

147 with two 18" BTL's.. You're doing something wrong.

We're only bashing your tardedness. Not your replies.

The ebay one would be better if you HAD to buy one. But why not build your own? It'd save you money.

Lethal Injection and Death Penalty are the only ones I know. I assume the 187 series is no more?

///M5

Run whatever companies you want. I'm sure you'll have a wider variety of speakers to choose from. You'll need more than 4 channels if you're going to run 3-way active + sub. You'll want a total of 7. I believe the 8445 can actively crossover 2-way components, not sure about 3-way. You may want to try and find a CD8053 to run 3-way active if the 8445 doesn't do it. Another option are some Alpine decks. Sorry for being vague on that, model numbers escape me at the moment. Instead of a PR sub setup, try an Infinite baffle instead.

I realize it's Arizona and all, but you can also remove the A/C compressor and add an alt down there. You can also forgo power steering to accomplish the same goal. I could drive my civic no problem without power steering.

Sounds like a well laid plan.