johnecon2001

Better for what?

That's what they make loctite for... superglue is very brittle in comparison.

The point is to add more current carrying capability to the system. Since the stock wires already carry a decent amount of power, why remove them when you could just add to what they can carry with some bigger wires. If you take two of the exact same cars and replace wires on one while adding wires on the other, the one with the wires added with have the greater current carrying capacity.

Tell Jacob?

Don't use SSA to promote other forums please. If you want to advertise, please contact Mark or Aaron.

Doesn't sound like you made the right decision on that head unit. You should do some more research to truly find one that fits your needs instead of one that fits 50% of them. You still have a hackjob going on in your install.

Q Enclosure Recommendations - SSA Car Audio Forum

He was talking about your blatant attempt to bring down Second skin in the main forum.

Looks like some light rub marks. Nothing to be alarmed about.

Just sounds like he forgot to edit the often overlooked FAQ? Don't really see the big dealy here.

Currently there is no alternator (HO) for my 300c SRT8 that is less than 700 bucks Who have you checked with? I don't believe that.

What amp would you use on 8 sealed? DVC4 or 2?

Your box is 2.93873^3ft large. VFL 12 Based on what that woofer looks like..... your box is NOT going to work. That is a ported only woofer. For sure.

Yep that matters. Generally that happens because a lead under the cone is broken and when you push it, you momentarily reconnect the lead. Sounds like you clipped the piss out of them and the lead burned on the sub and the mids. Been there, done that. You'll need to ensure your electrical system is providing a constant 12-14v and that you have your gains correctly set.

aren't you thinking of thumpper? this is fisher customs, not PTS maybe im mixed up lol No, you're dead on. Trevor = Thumpper = Pound That Sound BJ = FIsher customs

Band saw would be my choice, but not everyone has one of those.

There's no rule that says you can only have one wire per battery terminal.

Single baffle one flush mount

They're not knock offs. Kinetic batteries mirror several other types of batteries used in UPS, wheel chairs and other backup systems. I'd stick with something built for car audio. For your front battery, you should look at the S1200 from XS Power.

Lotta these hangin' around

Well there are other things in the works, and the Icon is going through testing because it has had a long life in its current form. I was pondering keeping the current form of the Icon going as so many people love it as it is, and offer an higher power handling version (what is seen here). But Mark and I have not finalized anything yet. Wouldn't be a bad idea. Maybe follow the model that DC sound lab did with the lvl 4 and lvl4 XL

Check the classifieds section, lots of good deals right now Sundown audio Z-15's BNIB For Sale - SSA Car Audio Forum FS: AA Arsenal 12 (slightly used), 4yds Gray Suede, Behringer EP2500 p - SSA Car Audio Forum

Thank you! what do i need to do in order for it to work the first time? Your pictures already had the tag wrapped around them. There was a second set on each picture that was basically canceling out the embedding process.

How did you set your gain?

Fixed your first post