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Everything posted by sandsnip3r
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Car: 2013 VW Golf 4doorHeadunit: KENWOOD DDX471HD 2DIN 6.1" TOUCHSCREENPlanned sub stage: 2x10" Fi SSD's sealed, ~0.4cubes each, powered by a Cadence ZRS C1 mono (2250rms @ 1ohm)I did my previous car's stereo install which was a single DIN head unit(Alpine IDA-X100), same amplifier(reusing it), and a 15" Fi BTL in a ported box. But with that install, I still only had the stock front speakers. Towards the end, I think even both tweeters died. My previous build was geared towards maximum volume with a high schooler's budget, now that I'm older and my tastes have changed, I plan to build more towards quality but not crazy like I've seen some people take it. I figure that I should upgrade the front speakers&tweeters, but I'm not sure what I want to upgrade them to. Someone had recommended to me PRECISION POWER PPI PC2.65C 6-1/2" 2-WAY COMPONENT with a Precision Power BA1000.4 1000 Watts 4-Channel Class AB Full Range Amplifier to power them. I'm open to many other suggestions. I dont want to modify the door panels at all or really anything in the car like that. I've never done an install that involved that involved anything besides the subwoofer/amp. What is involved in an install like that? Where are the speaker wires currently run, from the factory head unit to the factory speakers? If I power aftermarket speakers with an aftermarket amplifier, where do I put the amp? What is the crossover? Should I do something for the rear speakers also? How necessary is deadening the doors?Thanks a lot for the help! Edit: It looks the stock alternator with this car is ~140A. I'm not sure what the car draws while idling.
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First front stage build in new car
sandsnip3r replied to sandsnip3r's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
Ok, thanks, you're the man -
First front stage build in new car
sandsnip3r replied to sandsnip3r's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
Ok, thanks for the help, I'll do a lot more research and make sure to go for a high quality install. Also, I have a question about subwoofer wiring. Here is the manual for my amplifier: http://cadencesound.com/content/ZRS-C1.pdf There is a left and right set of terminals, how should i wire the pair of subwoofers to match that? Should I wire a pair of 2ohm DVC's down to 1ohm and then run that into one of the pairs (either left or right)? Or should I wire each sub to a 2ohm load with one into the left and one into the right so that the final load is 1ohm? Does it matter? -
First front stage build in new car
sandsnip3r replied to sandsnip3r's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. With the crossover, can I change the frequencies? wannabang, I ran this amp in my old car which had a 90A alternator and only a big 3 upgrade and the worst I ever saw was dimming headlights Do you guys have any other suggestions for a nice pair of components and amp? -
Previously I owned a 15" BTL running on a Cadence ZRS C1. The sub was in a ported box tuned around 34hz. I bought a new car and I'm selling my old car, I really enjoyed it and miss it already. In my new car, I'd like to keep the build small and oriented towards quality. I'd like to run 2 10" Fi SSD's on the same amp in a sealed box. I plan on building a box right around 0.4 cubic feet for each sub. Problem is, to run the subs on that mono at 1 ohm, I think need them in DVC 4ohm, will Fi build them like that? Also which options should I get on the subs and why? Thanks guys!
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Not much! I saw your username on CAF the other day and thought "damn its been a long time since ive seen that name" Only get high QTS if you are NEVER going to run them in a ported enclosure. I wont ever run them ported. I'll be sure to make a note of it so i remember for the future
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Oh duh, thanks, I dont know how i missed that. Ok, sounds good. Are any of the others necessary for my what I need?
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I made it into the 1000 pound club earlier this year. The 1000 pound club is when your bench, squat, and deadlift add up to at least 1000 lbs. I am 17 years old (18 tomorrow) 5'10" 240lbs. 200lbs bench, 355lbs squat, 495lbs deadlift. I have made much improvement this year. I work out only 2-3 days a week at school in weights class. My agility, endurance, and strength have improved far more than i could say that i expected.
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i am afraid that this summer i am just going to sit around. Lose motivation and not go to the gym. I ought to get a job working at a hardware store's loading dock or something....
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Is this (2 saz-4500) too much power to put on 4 15" Fi BLs?
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Okay, cool, sounds like it'll be great! Thanks for the help
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it's a truck so maybe a 250-300amp alt. ok
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good electrical system... H.O. alt and ~3 deep cycles(including the one under the hood)? Would that work?
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Haha, alright, thanks guys, so 1 will be sufficient?
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jay-cee, they will be "fully loaded" BLs in a ported box, 15-17 cubes. 2 2500's would seem like it would be giving the subs sufficient power to be loud but still have room for more, and I do like the idea of 2 3500's but the 4500's aren't too much of a price difference to make that extra step and just run them at a lower gain setting, perhaps running them cooler, and completely avoid any possibilities of clipping. Simply the reason I ask such an obvious question is that I have heard/seen that Fi's subs(at least the BTL[fully loaded]) are capable of comfortably taking more than than they are rated for. Even 200% of rated RMS... Thankyou for the help guys, I am just trying to learn all i can!
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Ok, Which 15"s would you recommend for SPL in a Blowthrough? First of all, the box options, there is a "3 Chamber, Single Reflex Bandpass" http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/bpass3cham.gif but i saw somewhere that when they are firing at each other, there will be much noise cancellation... So what would be the other ways for a blowthrough? But second, what sub would you recommend? For a budget under $300 per sub which is the best spl sub out there that will work good in ^^ whichever box...? It will be as a daily driver, but just high spl levels. Would sundown be best for power? For keeping a slightly low price?
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ok, i had planned on originally doing the 4500 though what i do not know much about are batteries... but yes, a yellowtop is better than my current battery i know what i want to do, im here because i need some help figuring out how to do it right
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bigger alternator, i cant find one higher than that, bigger starter, isnt a yellow top bigger? How many runs of 1/0, how many of which battery in the back?
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oops, meant 240amp alternator if i do a yellow top under the hood, how many batteries in the back and of which kind do you recommend?
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What do you mean be careful of the box? That's kind of the topic in question right now... BL's looking like what's going to happen, if i got them fully loaded, you think that i could run 4 off of 2 SAZ-3500Ds? What electrical upgrades? I'm thinking a iraggi 140 amp, big 3, a yellow top under the hood, and 2 deka intimidators in the back. Do you think a single or double run of 1/0? But again, About the box, in that sort of bandpass, are the subs firing at each other going to be a problem?
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i dont think that you can... http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp
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So, what would be best, and worst? 4 15" SSDs, Qs, or BLs? in this 4th order...
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Well, my homie wants to run a good amount of 12"s, or possibly 15" ssd's But he wants to do a blowthrough from the bed of the truck to the cab, what would be the best way to do it? He's thinking about doing it in sections, and i think that the way that might be best is to do 4 15"s SSDs and a SAZ 4500 and then do 4 more and another SAZ 4500 but, would you have to do a band pass pretty much??
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If you guys sold the black collared Fi shirts, i'd buy one...