wof131s

will do. Thanks guys

Am trying to figure out the port area for round ports in my design. Am going to build an enclosure that is 4 cu.ft. after all displacement turned to 30Hz for a 15" Fi Q. I know that for a slot port, that its length X width to calculate port area (i.e 14 X 4 = 56 sq.in. of port). I also know that for a round port, that its Phi X radius sq. to calculate port area (i.e 3.142X4 for a 4" pipe = 12.568 sq.in of port). This is what am not understanding is, to get the needed port area for using 4" port in a 4 cu.ft. enclosure, you would need about 4 or 5 of them, or am i just full speed down the wrong side of the track? I was going to use a slot port but decided that it would eat up to much room in my cab. So can someone share some advice on what would be the best route to take. Thanks in advance for the input.

Ok I get it. Thanks

I read your response but still didnt get the concept. Can you explain futher for me, or send me a link that will put me on the right track. Thanks

I understand that I would still get the tuning i want with a single port, but what about the port area (Fi recommend 12-16 sq.in per cu.ft. which would be 48-64 sq.ft)? One 4" port would only be 12.568 sq.ft. for a 4 cu.ft. box, wouldn't I have less output with one 4" port than with 2 or 3? Or am I not getting the concept?

Here is the delima, I can either run 2 15" Fi Q sealed in a 4.5 cuft enclosure (net vol.) or 1 15" ported in a 4 cuft enclosure (net vol.) tuned to 30 Hz. Now what am looking for is clean, low end bass with the potenial to get loud. Looking at both setups, which would produce cleaner low end bass. Am not looking to compete or anything, its just a nice low end daily setup for my personal uses. Am also willing to play around with tuning if there is any suggestion. Thanks in advance for the response.

Am trying to find out which application would yeild the best results. I recently perchased the JL C5 comp. and was debating whether they would be more effective (Best SQ) in a small fiberglass enclosure in the door or just put them directly into the door without an enclosure. Any help would be great, thanks.

I did. Read the last part of the sentence after the word but. Don't read everything like people are attacking you, instead read with an open mind and you will see your answer. Am not seeing it as an attack, your input on the topic open my eyes to areas that i do need to check into. Its just that when you ask an important question that your needing an immediate answer to and you have someone saying if you have to ask..... It just gets under my skin. If you have an opinion on the asked question just say yes it is or no its not a good idea because...... If this is done, then the thread would go a whole lot smoother.

Thanks for clearing that up.

Stop being argumentative. Your equipment is NOT meant to be in an enclosure and it would not be logical to use it that way. It has nothing to do with what I equipment I know, but instead a fundamental understanding of how drivers work and what they will excel in and what they won't. Again exactly why I said you really shouldn't try to put those components in a sealed enclosure. Your last comment about knowing about a product is absurd, perhaps you've heard of T/S parameters? They will tell the WHOLE story on whether or not something will work sealed, ported or what alignment is appropriate. Audio 101. Experience can help you fine tune, but it is SUPER easy to understand approximately what things will be like without having even tried them. Why didnt you say that in your first post, thats all i needed to know. I tried calling JL for the T/S parameters because they are not listed but i didnt get them, like stated above. So i thought this would be the next best place to find out, and it was. Now i have the information that i needed. Thanks for the input.

So your saying I have to sell my chose of equipment, and buy something you know about. If thats the case then why even get involved in the thread? Like i said earlier, i thought someone on here may have the components and would offer some advice. Everyone has their chose of equipment, why should they sell it because one person says they should? Am trying to take a scientific path, thats why am here. If i just wanted to do it to see what happens i wouldnt have even posted this thread, i would have just done it. But it makes no sense just to do something to see what happens unless your learning from it. But on the other hand if someone doesnt deal with or know about a product, then there is not much support they can give. I do understand where your coming from on that point.

But isnt that what the forum is for, to get insight and opinions on how things are done. I get the theory here and other places, then put it into practice. If I dont have enough understanding of something and wanting to learn, then how am I going to get the know how when i get "if you need to ask the quesyion you probably dont have a deep enough understanding of what to do to pull it off effectively" from the place where the support comes from. Like we say home, experience is the grand father of learning. If you dont try, then how are you to gain understanding and experience.

Yes, i was thinking about making some sealed fiberglass door pods. I was on the phone yesterday for about a hr waiting on tech support to answer the phone to find out which would be better. Got tired and hangup, ill try again sometime next week. Just thought someone here had these comp. and would offer a suggestion. But thanks to everyone that did.

This may help: http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=38

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Just asking, not trying to start anything, but if this is so why is there such hate for the Hifonics amps that does 80% of their sad total wattage? Why is there so much hate for a 1990 Daewoo and not for a 1990 Honda? Now add the fact that amplifiers do NOT have any sort of standardized testing...and you think its funny there is hate for a budget brand that will cut any corner possible to meet a price point?? A better question would be why are you defending a compromise? To me I'd much rather have a used piece of real electronics versus a new complete compromise. What do you think the difference between a $50 headunit and a $300 headunit is if you aren't using any of the processing nor amplification? Do I need to go on? Where do you get i think its funny from? I dont think paying for an amp rate at 2000 watts and getting an amp that puts out 1700 watts is funny in no way. I want what I paid for. Ive never or will ever own a Hifonics amp and am not defending anything the company makes. You said expect 80%, then when am amp puts out that 80% then its a bad amp. Like i said earlier, am not trying to start anything, but if thats what you expect out of an amp dont call it shit when it does that 80%, simiply. funny - websters dictionary, definition 3: warranting suspicion; deceitful; underhanded: We thought there was something funny about those extra charges. Your "asking" sounded like defending. I don't understand your premise of 80% being bad, but not calling it shit. I thought we were discussing amps not grammer here but if it makes you feel better and to end it, your right. lol

Ok AGM over Gel in audio systems, got it. Thanks for that bit of information.

What is the difference in using a AGM battery instead of a Gel battery when running a secondary battery for an audio system? If the Ah and Reserve Capacity are the same or very similar in both batteries, then how do they differ?

Just asking, not trying to start anything, but if this is so why is there such hate for the Hifonics amps that does 80% of their sad total wattage? Why is there so much hate for a 1990 Daewoo and not for a 1990 Honda? Now add the fact that amplifiers do NOT have any sort of standardized testing...and you think its funny there is hate for a budget brand that will cut any corner possible to meet a price point?? A better question would be why are you defending a compromise? To me I'd much rather have a used piece of real electronics versus a new complete compromise. What do you think the difference between a $50 headunit and a $300 headunit is if you aren't using any of the processing nor amplification? Do I need to go on? Where do you get i think its funny from? I dont think paying for an amp rate at 2000 watts and getting an amp that puts out 1700 watts is funny in no way. I want what I paid for. Ive never or will ever own a Hifonics amp and am not defending anything the company makes. You said expect 80%, then when am amp puts out that 80% then its a bad amp. Like i said earlier, am not trying to start anything, but if thats what you expect out of an amp dont call it shit when it does that 80%, simiply.

Just asking, not trying to start anything, but if this is so why is there such hate for the Hifonics amps that does 80% of their sad total wattage?

An audioque AQ1200 will work with the correct settings and will also be useful if your wanting to upgrade.

I wouldnt use it. I would just use the subsonic filter and my low pass filter to get my desired musical affect. But thats just me.

thanks

I did the big 3 last weekend to my 2000 dodge dakota and was woundering about a wiring configuration. I currently have two 0 gaguge runs from the frame to the engine block and two 0 gauge runs from the battery neg. to the frame using the same post on the frame used in the frame to engine block runs. I have one run of 0 gauge from the alt. to the battery positive and a run of 4 gauge from the alt. to the fuse box which was place there by the guy installing the alt. Two Questions: 1) Should I run a 0 gauge from the engine to the battery negative, or should my currently setup be ok? 2) Should I remove the 4 gauge from the fuse box and run it directly to the pos. battery post? Thnaks in advance for your input.

What he said.