ANeonRider

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showth...nife#post200966 Something about not planning ahead...

TOp IHOP is nuts busy today.

LOL, increases to what? 0.002 ohms @ 200ft? IMO there is no need to ever have more than 16ga. speaker wire in anything. He just doesn't know...

Looks like I'm going to be doing an install in a convertible '02 Trans Am WS6. Shall be interesting for the sub install (which is his first priority), going to try & convince him to let me replace the whole thing

I received a PM from him before, when I first called that "work" a hack job. This was in response to me mentioning knife inserts for mounting solutions

I was blessed with the Spec then, no molex connector, lots of room (although I only have a single run of 16 into it). Only thing I was the doors had were the removable inner metal, like most of the new cars now. That way I could get my deadener on the outer panel without the contortion act.

I should go take a pic real fast of the door I started to take apart yesterday. I found out that there is no way to fit 2 runs of 12 gauge wire through the rubber cable sleeve between the door and the body frame, not to mention I don't have the motivation to pull the dash to get to the grommet to feed the wire through to the door . Not sure what I am going to do to get around it. Be right back. 16ga. is plenty.

Apparently everyone that thinks that is a complete clusterfuck is a burger monkey.

Werd. Buddy of mine is purchasing one of the old big vans (think murals & shit on the sides, bed & table in the back, swivel lounge chairs)... going to do something SPL in it, since it's HUGE & won't be a daily.

I accidently dripped some on my rear seat cushion

As do I.

Depends... if you use my approach & deaden anything that can be deadened, no. If you take your time & knock on panels & use it efficiently, probably will be good.

LOL, his "installer" didn't like that comment much

Only way to remove that brick is with a saw... they bondo'd it into the trunk, attached to the freaking trim!

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16869 And the hack job continues... ruining a good car.

Shouldn't have gone to the bar last night.... tiiiired.

I see that too

No.

Jesus Christ

Since when do rear stages exist? Maybe huge outdoor concerts I guess. You sure don't listen to any advise do you? Why do you bother even asking then?

Junk... seriously, one of the worst sounding component sets I've heard. Might have mentioned this before, but I'm being lazy. What kind of amplification & headunit do you have?

Mainly because 99% of 6x9s on the market are not designed with strong enough cones to hold up to the uneven pressures during excursion, and also, most tout this 4-way or 3-way capability, which in reality, they just have a golden turd on the top of them. Yes, 18 will be fine.

I think it went, TB designed the driver, then Ben stole the design & got it made in China.

LOL Sure sound like an expert, you use the cloak of disguise well.

Here, I'll prove it for you, although, I did stretch it a bit. Playing music @ loud listening levels, most speakers are rarely outputting more than 5W of acoustical power at any given time. 100% efficiency = 112dB/1w/1m Let's use, for example, the Fi BTL 10" D1: The equation for acoustical efficiency is as follows: Efficiency = 9.64 * 10^(-10) * Fs^3 * Vas / Qes Fi lists these t/s parameters as follows: Fs=29Hz Vas=22.3L Qes:0.41 Efficiency = (9.64 * 10^(-10) * 29^3 * 22.3/0.41) Efficiency = 0.001278768807 Expressed in %, it would be 0.128%. This is the efficiency of acoustical output. So, for example, 100W into the speaker will result in 0.128% of that power converted to acoustical power, or 12.8W @ 100% duty cycle @ full power. Music never does this. We can figure out the SPL efficiency from this: SPL = 112+10log(efficiency) SPL = 112+10log(0.001278768807) SPL = 83dB/1W/1M