ANeonRider

See if it turns something on? Connect the constant voltage & ground, then apply voltage to one side of the coil & see if you get that same voltage on the other side of the coil.

Likewise with my IXL-10.

I'd do a 3" full range like the HiVi

Estimated damage total came to $3400. The adjuster said she'll get back to me on my stereo value by the end of the week. Likely will be $500 or so.

Weight is probably the most worthless unit of measurement when it comes to measuring overall health. BMI tells me I'm obese. I sure am not.

Reason why I closed it.

That is a decent sized alternator for a stock unit. I'd do ground wiring upgrade to the engine compartment as well as the Big 3, then install your equipment & monitor your voltage. That will determine if you do need to bother with any more expensive upgrades.

Just made the list of damaged areas for the insurance company. Have my insurance assessment in about an hour.

Sundown please.

OP: Please start a new topic.

How many people here run full duty cycle 1kHz tones daily? I'd like to meet someone whom uses their full RMS capability even 2% of the time. 1. 90W vs. 150W isn't even an 3dB difference in power & and will not be audibly distinguishable... especially with 85-90dB 1W sensitivity drivers that are commonly used. 2. 150W vs. 200W has a very minute difference in output. It will not make your distortion levels higher. You hit power level peaks less than 1% of the time... 3. Amplifier power levels are one of the last things that needs to be considered when designing a system. This keyboard diarrhea is making my head hurt. As for this bridging distortion noise... if you can hear a 0.001% vs. a 0.005% distortion difference, I'd like you to apply for a Guiness Record. Physically, it is impossible for the human ear to distinguish the difference.

lol top

lol.

i know this has come up before but i wish someone would do a "HOW to" DIY with pics... or a sticky .... i wanna go active but i know ill F-it up... i have NO CULE how to manage any Freq above 120Hz And pictures won't help you figure it out any further.

It's cold, cloudy & windy right now here. But just a couple sprinkles, nothing worth much yet.

I hear ya. Sinuses are not happy right now. We NEED some rain, the dust is killing me.

6 days still to go!

They caught three teenagers that were breaking into a bunch of cars in the neighbourhood next to mine last night. So, I'm going to be calling the cops & inquiring after work. The ident guy said he'd be able to match any suspects with what he recovered. Those part numbers I sent you Sean will get you the controller & the DIN cable that connects to the H701.

Can the 9861 control the H701 ? not very well, really it is best to just change presets with it and have the controller elsewhere And since that is the case, might as well get a less expensive Alpine HU, since all of them can change the presets, sub level & volume. Unless of course you need DVD playing capability or optical signal.

Anything more than the basic scientific calculator wasn't allowed in any of mine.

Scott The D310/W200 control over the H701 is different than the newest generation of Alpine A/V headunits. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showth...;highlight=w505 The D310/W200 was a graphical interface. The D105/106 W500/505 is completely text.

mine was issued in '02, expires in 2051 so when I'm 65 I've gotten some weird looks from that too lol WTF? I have to get one every 5 years and it costs me $80. Have to get it yearly here & it is 25 a shot.

Well, through my research I found out a couple things: 1) The Rockford Fosgate Premium Stereo for the Sentra futures a headunit with 6V preouts, just need to convert them from 18ga wire to RCA cables. No LOC needed. 2) You can piece together a bare bones RUX-C701 for less than 1/2 price.

Who wants to let me drop ship some stuff from pacparts to them? PM me.

What my dash looks like now.