ANeonRider

I have them here in the documentation, as well as the parts list. I also have two of them, I built one & so did my brother.

I don't know of many for around 50W per channel. I personally imagine that the parts might make it fun but cost prohibitive...but then again, I've never built a full amplifier before. If you do go the full range route and put it in a horn, you can get very respectable output with less than 10W, and there's lots of those designs around. DIYAudio.com is a good route to go there. It is likely that I will be a "representative" of sorts for CSS on the side in addition to SSA...not really in an aggressive stance but just helping those who are interested in their stuff. If you are interested, let me know and I'll see what I can do. I completely forgot... I have a DIY amp here that I built while I was in school. Why I forgot? No idea. Going to take it to work tomorrow & get some measurements. FR, plots of harmonics (100Hz, 1k, 10k) & output power. I think we have dummy loads at work I could power them into. From what I remember, I think it did 80W into 8ohms. Have to see if I can find any documentation now too. Edit: Found the documentation, 45W @ 8 ohms, stable to 4 ohms.

With shipping & border fees, I will likely pay more than what the plate amp Neil just linked me to & wait an extra 7-10 days longer for it.

Ya, a little birdie told me about it

I am very interested Neil. I'll pm you & we can discuss this when I get home in 45 minutes.

Well, the 12 is in my little brother's truck, so not it. I currently have the 3 10s, the 18 & you know what else I need the subwoofer amplifier to get my testing underway, finally.

I'll be using one of my combinations of Mach5 subwoofers for my low end, that is for certain.

I want to build my own... 2 channels is all I need, even for movies. This is all going in my 18'x12' bedroom anyways. Will be building cabinets, subwoofer enclosure, tv stand with intergrated equipment & book stand, as well as put the plate amp in an enclosure (for portability) & subwoofer enclosure under my bed. I would do something in the living room, but it already has a 5.1 of my brother's, and I much rather be able to listen to my music in the privacy of my room.

Looks like I'm going to start my 2.1 HT project.

Also, I haven't googled it yet, but if anyone has any links to DIY full range amplifier designs, for 2 channels of around 50W of power, please link me.

Thanks Neil... exactly what I was looking for. Uses the ICEpower chips, like my PDXs do as well. 86% efficient, so at 1000W of output (which will barely ever be done, ever), will be using ~10A. Great! $420 shipped & no border fees. Not bad. I'll probably go with that then. Might pick up 2 of their widrange drivers to play with as well, likely try them out in a rear loaded horn enclosure. Might try them out in the car as well. What are your feelings on them Neil? I know you had/have used them.

If there is, I don't know where I could find it... Neil may have a better idea than I.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...c=11940&hl= Help me out guys

The UI with the 701 is the best of all of the Alpine A/V screens IMO, and is the combo I'm using. I do wish there was a direct link to the processor from the main screen though, but I'm not too hurt to have to click three times to get to it.

Too simple.

For a first time, that looks great. Just pull it out, going to take some force & you will have to take the tape with it then.

Correct, more to back that up: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18893 That being said, neither higher current or higher voltage will cause more heating of a driver, since power is the same, power (heat) dissipation due to the inefficiency of a driver will be the same.

No such thing as low voltage/high current thingy... P=V^2/Z ALWAYS

Except the glidetouch is complete garbage.

Still junk.

4C & raining here, might turn to light flurries tonight & I'm going to be pounding the pavement for the election campaign. Time for the winter wear lol

I tried to find the range of frequencies of the onboard crossovers, but was unable. What are they?

Basic digital meters are $20, if that. A True RMS is better, but not completely essential, since the DMM method isn't exact anyways.

Mine are currently crossed over @ 40Hz @ -18dB. No problem.

You will need to use active crossovers using those drivers. What is your plan?