ANeonRider

whats normal.

Picture time! One of my favorites:

L.B. looks like he belongs in the Louisiana swamp, not Dallas.

Class C is used in RF transmission.

My Class D Alpine amps are clean as can be, to my ears. Class D's draw is the efficiency & form factor.

Class D does not stand for digital... nothing more than a marketing term, and they will clip like any other amplifier when the input level is too high. http://sound.westhost.com/articles/pwm.htm

Touch the two leads together, should get nearly 0 ohms.

What DMM setting are you using?

Hmm, he's not talking about a subwoofer.

Active means electronic crossovers in the signal chain prior to the amplification.

Well, I was thinking along the lines, if using the MLi's that anything over 1.5-2k starts to get pretty lackluster. Great for midbass though! Since that is the case, you will want to get a tweeter or other driver capable of going from ~1-1.5k & up. I prefer the kickpanel location for a couple reasons, first is the path length difference, second is the refelections that are usually apparent when mounting tweeters in the a pillars due to the windshield & hard plastic dashes & third is the relative location to the midbass.

tweets in kicks! For many reasons. Personally, I would venture further out of the box & try out the new Peerless 2" full range driver in the kicks, no tweeter. Probably will in the Neon whenever it has an engine again.

Boosting bad mkay

Go with Mark's recommended sealed enclosure for the MJ-18s. More displacement is best when trying to reach those lower frequencies in movies!

Remembrance Day holiday. I'm at work

lol

Large format tweeter in the kicks ftw.

I really wish everyone could hear my BIBs, such a kick ass design... so simple to build. IMO nothing beats single driver systems that can nail the full audio spectrum!

Whatcha burying?

Hope you don't drive around with the batteries like that....

I have used the M300, and my brother still has one. A buddy has the M1001 as well. Good amps.

BIB thread for that driver: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread....&highlight=

BIB FTW. Can always go with a larger driver, for more impact, although I'm not sure you would really need it... but what the hell. Could try this driver: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...products_id=271 If the top end isn't quite up to your tastes, you can always add a supertweet using a simple 6dB crossover.

Nearly everything. Including a $800 clutch. Goal for N/A would be 200HP.

Need to do an inventory of what parts I have for the Neon. Decided I want to go NA with it, not turbo, so I have to figure out what I have to sell or trade now.