ANeonRider

The cams I want = $680 shipped. Eff me.

Tonight's supper.... lake trout, straight from a deep northern lake, yellow, green & red peppers, lemon slices, mushrooms. Pepper seasoned, and baked to perfection. Served over a mound of steamed brown rice.

Arts & Crafts degrees don't require brains lol

I hate bright dashes... completely throws your eyes off from what they really should be doing, focusing on the road.

I start work every day at 7:30

Why you would want to hp that low is beyond me. Every deck that is active capable can lp plenty high, and can overlap with the hp. Find one that you are interested in & read the manual.

Not sure what the Spec weighs... stock is 2750ish. Stereo has added a bunch, and I am 230. Neon will weigh in around 2300lbs whenever it gets on the road again.

IB = in the door in most cases. How well deadened are your doors? Make your spacer out of wood... then call it a baffle.

In a big sealed box... which is hard to do in a car. That is why most people installed them in an IB configuration.

Ya... don't use the bass boost. You are clipping.

Just looked, yep 1.5 din sized face... I would do that in a second actually, I forgot about that model.

Thats the 1.5 din right?

Do you need to replace? I'd go 9833 or 35 before any of the newer decks personally.

The reasoning behind going active is this: 1) Without installing the drivers, and trying different crossover points, you cannot truly determine what type of crossover slope, -3dB point, notch filter or zobel you might need. 2) Active allows for much easier system changes, for example if you want to try out another tweeter or mid. 3) Allows for pin point L/R & mid/tweet level control & time correction if needed (and have time correction capable HU). 4) Since it is electronic, impedance changes are not an issue as a passive network would be. 5) Cheap passive crossovers can add noise & other harmonics to the system, especially if using a cheap components. Also, component tolerances are very much in play.

1) I've alway used a vise, if no vise a hammer will work. 2) Yes, you will still need to ground the rear battery. I recommend running a cable from the rear battery negative to the front battery negative. As for the amps, run it to the rear battery negative terminal.

Likely like all other Dodges, 1.5 din, enough room to open it up to a 2din. 6x9s in the doors (8s FTW), 2.5" in the dash.

Gonna be above freezing tomorrow, time to hit a auto wrecker and find me a motor.

Also says in his signature he is using a Eclipse PA5532.

Where are you located? Almost every city has a electronics hobby & supply shop.

I heard Shoot Em Up was terrrrrrible. Glad I didn't pay money to go see it in the theatre.

Checked your math, all looks good. Just approximates, but looks like you will get ~8ft^3 after displacements, port length will be ~26".

Send me an invite... [email protected] Thanks!

My effin STMusic account got deleted or something, I cannot log in now.

Use of smilies helps

Must be rock bottom when you get kicked out of a buffet. Fat fucks.