ANeonRider

Thanks and welcome guys... figured its about time we had our own little How-To

Hypothetically, yes, it probably is.

Any of the Maxxsonics guys around?

SSF should be set to 1/2 octave below tuning (~26Hz in your case) LPF filter should be set to whatever you feel sounds best. I usually set mine around 50-60 Hz, and let the midbass do the rest of the higher frequency bass. And NO, never max out the gain, read this: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...wtopic=3704&hl=

YOU ARE USING A SEALED BOX, MAXING OUT YOUR DECK, AND USING YOUR GAIN AS A VOLUME KNOB. WHAT DO YOU EXPECT? Let's review what these last 5 pages have been about.. 1. Build a PORTED BOX 2. FIX YOUR WIRING 3. Buy a DMM, and set those gains right 4. Turn down that HU into something a little more reasonable (NEVER do you need to turn a deck up past 3/4 of maximum volume). 5. Read and listen, 5 pages of repetition is gets very tiresome.

I have not seen one that does not.

leave the drama at ca.com please. Every car group has its idiots, just because the SRT-4 is inexpensive, fast for its class, and easy to upgrade doesn't mean there won't be idiots driving them as well. I am sure there are plenty of idiots driving LS1 Camaros too.

You clip the HU... and the signal to the amp will be clipped, and the output to the sub will be too. Putting things to their maximum is always bad news.

Welcome, don't see me on CA.com ever anymore, glad you came over to the "good" side.

You are doing double baffle on the front correct? If so... internal depth dimension of 8.5", not 7.75". Now, with using the 8.5" internal depth, you have too much airspace, comes out to 2.362ft^3 now, and that will throw off your port length as well. Using 7.75" depth, it is 2.111ft^3, and the port length is a little off (~0.25" if you are using an aeroport, 1.25" is you are not)

Do you know the resonant frequency of the car?

lol, smartass. Was looking for the ebay store/seller

the tweeter attenuation circuitry is the -6, -3, 0dB jumpers.

link me

Underpowering doesn't blow subs, clipping does. Just be smart with the volume knob. Make sure the amp can handle the impedance of the sub too.

Draw up a new one with the dimensions you have come up with. I'll check it again.

Normally, you will need to aim the tweeters and mids at different angles. I suggest making up some baffles, get some hotglue, and velcro strips. Then... set up the baffles in different arrangements until you find the setup that sounds the best to you. Forget about the lack of bass, etc. Listen for the imaging, find some vocal only tracks to test with.

Rl-p is 7" deep, so with 8.5" of depth, you will have ~ 0.75" of clearance (if the sub is top mounted). I would do at least 1.5". Remember, you need to account for port displacement, and sub displacement as well

assuming that the outside dimensions are 43"x14.5"X8.5" .... What sub are you using? With the depth you have stated, you cannot fit a sub any deeper than 5". As well, the box as shown, will only be 1.856 ft^3, the port lengths are off because of this.

Not quite... the wood needed for a slot port displaces much more than the 1/4" PVC does. As well, you need more port area in a slot port, than you will for a round port due to friction. Having ports coming from two different planes will case mad cancellation. Keep the ports to one plane.

Yes, you can get more... but the higher bass frequencies (from ~70-200Hz) are directional. If you want any sort of soundstage, they are to be reproduced by the midbass drivers.

Monopoly money of course.

hahahahaha Just had a stupid punk kid threaten to pay someone to mess me up haha. I asked how many beatings 10 bucks will buy me.

FYI...subs arent meant to play above 70Hz, that is the region where the frequencies become directional. Your SSF was set too high... tuned to 32Hz, the filter shouldn't even need to be used. They are supposed to set it to 1/2 octave below tuning, which turns out to be 24Hz, and unless you are playing tones or some crazy pipe organ stuff that plays that low...

Well the sub shouldn't not be bottoming out anyway when i try to crank it up. My infinity perfect NEVER bottomed out, but this one does constantly when i crank it up. I just read that thread about the guys messed up RL-i's and it sounds liek i am going through the exact same chit he is. If the sub is reaching full excursion and bottoming out, why isn't it even loud? That other dude said he put it in a ported box and it still went to full exursion and bottomed out, i don't want the same chit to happen to me. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You are starving the amp of current, therefore, clipping it. When an amp clips, it will deliver 2x the power it normally would. Need to stop listening to all these locals guys... Just do what was suggested. mrray13 makes boxes, I make designs. I ran my Brutus at full output (no clipping), so 1500W - impedance rise, and I have NO problems.