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ANeonRider

SSA Regular
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Everything posted by ANeonRider

  1. ANeonRider

    12 rlp box

    Round port and slot port are no different. You need slightly less port area when using round ports because of the reduction in friction.
  2. ANeonRider

    Got metered yesterday

    Nothing wrong with hi-grade plywood.
  3. ANeonRider

    Got metered yesterday

    What meter? Good score for a single 15 in a SQL setup!
  4. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Will feedback into the other sources.
  5. ANeonRider

    bass boost or no?

    You can only measure true power with a load that will no change impedance as it warms up, and as the frequency changes, etc.
  6. ANeonRider

    bass boost or no?

    Don't have the money for an o-scope. How many shops actually have an o-scope? How much do you think they'd charge to dial in your amps? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Is this pondering out loud? I have no idea how many shops have an o-scope, I am pretty sure none around me do.
  7. Check your voltage, if it drops too much, the amp will shut off.
  8. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Not bad I'd think, just make sure you will like the Glide-Touch. I HATE it.
  9. ANeonRider

    12" RL-p, 1.21cu. ft box sealed, amp settings?

    So... whats the verdict? Everything work out alright?
  10. ANeonRider

    bass boost or no?

    Some of what you wrote, I don't follow... understate the voltage? Ratings are in watts. What deck are you using anyways? The only real way to tell you aren't getting any clipping at all is to use an o-scope. Second best method, is to get the amp benched, and use the DMM method. Third, is just to use the DMM Method with the amplifier ratings.
  11. ANeonRider

    My RL-p box sucked, now it's in a better home with

    Well, at leastb his idiocy its well known by now, and Mike doesn't have this "bad" feedback hanging there over his head.
  12. ANeonRider

    My RL-p box sucked, now it's in a better home with

    Glad he at least sold it to someone intelligent enough to be able to use it. Where at the pics? We need pics
  13. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    I can't see it...
  14. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Gambling to make money isn't either I used to work for the lottery corporation here, I got paid because of people like that
  15. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Hmm, about that, give or take 1/2 hour. Mapquest will give you the downlow though
  16. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Glide-touch = awful. My 7894 hasn't given me a reason yet to think about replacing it. It's a few years old, and may not be in absolutely mint condition, but it keeps working <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Mine hasnt given me any reason to be replaced either, but I wouldn't mind stepping up to the active crossovers that the new decks provide.
  17. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Nice deck, I wish I had one. Roommate picked up a 9855, nice deck and all, but I absolutely despise the glide-touch.
  18. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    I burnt my left arm driving 3.5 hours this morning, and good too. Never has happened before... now it will match my face that burnt over last weekend at the lake.
  19. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Just don't squeeze!
  20. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    That's a rather large crowbar Steve, I don't think we even have one that big on the farm Just wrenches that are taller than me, 1"x3" thick and weigh 35 pounds.
  21. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Yep, damn, you caught me, straight up copy and paste... What isn't correct? O right, I say not to turn you deck above 3/4 of maximum volume. You disagree. Sure.. some decks never clip, but, the average noob doesn't know this. I wrote that for the noobs out there. If the user knows that their deck does not clip until a different volume level, then they aren't a noob, and won't be needing that tutorial, since they would need to have a oscope to verify that their deck does not clip. Now, you can remove the edit you added to my post... or you can continue to use your powers, delete it, and add your own, because I know you want to.
  22. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Let Steve delete my post? haha I am here because it is a great enviroment, free of egos and retards, unlike CA.com Plagiarism? Sure... Sorry to say big boy, but you aren't the first person, nor the last to use the same method. I happened to make a post about it, like you, on a different site, wow. So, if I post a thread about the theory of relativity, I am plagiarising Einstein as well? When was the last time you added anything constructive and useful here? I haven't seen anything but whining about how everyone else is posing, and you aren't.
  23. ANeonRider

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Why are you a moderator here?
  24. ANeonRider

    cancel those credit cards...

    People don't think anymore, the machines do all of the thinking we ever need to do.
  25. Most audio equipment dies for one simple reason. Most people push their equipment beyond its limits. Whether it is the amplifier, subwoofer or full range speakers, clipping is the number one cause of failure. To prevent clipping, use this tutorial. To figure out what voltage you should set the gains to, multiply the RMS power of the amplifiers output by the impedance of the speaker, then find the square root of that number. If you are using an amplifier that has an RMS rating of more than your speaker(s) can handle/rated for, then use the RMS rating of the speaker (instead of the RMS of the amplifier) to determine the voltage to set your amp to. This is also referred to as gaining down. Gain Setting Equation Voltage of the output = sqrt(RMS Power X impedance of the speaker) Example Say the amp provides 100WRMS into a 4 ohm speaker: Voltage = sqrt(100W X 4 ohms) Voltage = sqrt(400W*ohms) Voltage = 20V Again, that was only an example, use the ratings of your amp to figure that out. Setting the Gain(s) To set the gain(s), you need two things: 1. A DMM (digital multi-meter) that is capable of measuring AC voltage (needs to be able to measure up to a range of 200V). 2. A test tone CD to use to set the gains at the correct setting. Now, to set the gain(s): 1. Start the vehicle, and pop the test tone CD in the head unit. 2. DO NOT hook up the sub(s) or speaker(s) to the amplifier while doing this, just leave the outputs unused at this time. 3. Now, time to set up the head unit. a. If the loudest you listen to your music at on a regular basis is 22/35 with bass @ +3 and treble @ 0 with MX (or any other sound processor) on, use those settings. NEVER turn the headunit above 3/4 of the maximum volume. b. Remember to have the car turned on. c. If you want to use bass boost on a sub amp, set it prior to setting the gains on the amp and use the center frequency of the bass boost (45 Hz for most amps) as your test tone. d. Please remember that if you have a subwoofer volume control on the headunit and/or a bass knob for the amplifier, set it to the maximum before you set the gains on the sub amp. 4. Take the leads from the DMM and but them on the outputs from the amp. 5. Set the gain so that the outputs of the amplifier equal the voltage you found above. This is a MUST. Here is JL Audio tutorial on their site: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/Input_Sen...ensitivity.html Here is where you can download some test tones for system testing/gain setting: http://www.ronelmm.com/tones/ http://www.eminent-tech.com/music/multimediatest.html For test tones higher than 80Hz, download this program and you can create your own: Adobe Audition Trial Version It is best to use 50 Hz tone for a sub amp (unless you have bass boost, use the frequency that is boosted as the tone), and a 1kHz tone for a full-range amp. This is a good way to set the gains, but if you have access to an oscilloscope, by all means use it. Then you can set the gains to their absolute maximum as you can see when the amplifier clips. If you are wondering what exactly clipping is, and what it looks like, read this: http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm If you have any questions about this, post up, I
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