ANeonRider

23, 24 in May

Only hook up one coil, and reduce the power to the sub. RTV to cover the rip in the spider. Recones = all soft parts are replaced.

Rip will be causing the sound you hear, but not change the resistance of the coil. Only the coil can do that. If the coil is reading that high, then it is time for a recone.

Werd.

That is the tinsel lead, not the voice coil. Not the cause of the problem... unless the lead is almost severed.

Someone just tried to tell me that a ram air intake was an improvement compared to a CAI on a dyno... Errrrr.

I have been in the same boat as his friend... personally, I like to run my car as it is on the street, therefore I do not take anything out of the vehicle that is bolted down. A little extra weight doesn't matter all that much in an Autox car anyways if the suspension is setup correctly, especially in a car with a 65/35 weight distribution. That being said, I would try to build the enclosure as light as possible, and in the locations previously mentioned. Think of it as strategic weight placement.

Yep To reduce weight, and make it easier to handle when removing for the track, use fibreglass throughout, and use poly rope as a rib structure to give strength to the flatter parts, and reduce the amount of layers needed. A well constructed fibreglass enclsosure can weigh as little as 10-15 pds.

Even handling lead will be harmful, not quite to the level of ingestion, but effects are still there.

Lead has diamagentic properties, which will result in a very small repulsion from any magnetic field (magnetic susceptibility is negative). Now, how much effect that it would have on the motor, I do not know, but even so, having something toxic in my enclosure is something I don't strive for Diamagnetic materials make the best conductors though http://www.ian.org/Magnetics/Diamagnetic.html

Guess I missed something on the tutorial here. Unless you have a method to make sure that the headunit or amplifier is not clipping, use a 0dB tone.

Sounds like a motor mount to me.

It is more of an HT driver than mobile.

Especially in colder climates! Check your tire pressure as part of a weekly schedule.

Who's //M5 ? Is he an experiend box builder? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...hp?showuser=967 Most of the "veteran" and knowledgeable guys here and experienced box builders, worth asking him anyways... Kent and Ryan would be a good choice as well.

I think //M5 is in MN, I'm relatively close, but shipping over the border is less than ideal.

Personally, I would like a little more volume if I was tuning that low, say 1.75-2 per driver... But, it works.

What sub?

Does it matter really? Just a q...

Larger box would experience quite the frequency hump compared to the smaller box. In other words, the smaller one would be more musical.

Disconnect the RCA's. Does the hiss go away? If so, either the RCA's, or the HU ground is bad. If the hiss continues, then the amp ground is bad.

How did the box go together? Glad you like how they sound. For your truck, you would probably want to tune in around 40-45Hz...

Looks like someone has reading problems.

Just asking how because those numbers make no sense Must be a typo somewhere in the manual.